LSD/ Diff question

[Dr_Drift]

Go and see Japanese Motor Sport, they are experts with skylines bot standard and locked diff. They will also probably be the best and cheapest way to get it fixed if it's busted.

The have both standard and aftermarket diffs in stock.

[Jay95R33]

Mechanicals are wierd in their operation.

You've really got to see a pic of one to understand.

Basically when you apply power (and there is a power difference between the wheels and the motor) the force will push out some rods or spindles things that lock the wheels together.

That puk puk puk puk noise that you hear when going around slow tight corners under power is the inside wheel skipping/spining accross the road.

Remember that the inside wheel will be wanting to spin as fast as the outside wheel but has a shorter distance to travel cause your urning a corner, so the wheel will actaully spin a bit.

Mechanical are good fro drift work, great for track work, and amazing for drags. Basically the most traction you'll get from a 2wd car is a straight line.

Some LSD will swap the power from one wheel to the next which will cause fishtailing - not a good thing. with a mechanical there is always a 50/50 split, even when you start spining the wheels.

God I hope that makes sense ????

J

[XrSiSt]

So how do u know when you've got a worn diff?

Does your rear end move from side to side when taking

corners like the disff is slipping??

[ex-static]

I think thats your wheels spinning XrSiSt

Thats perfectly normal..

I raced an R33 with a locked Diff.. he wrecked me.. I just kept spinning the wheels (with 255s on the ass) My car had heaps more power then his, but he was able to put his less power car to the ground better.

I say.. if you want a straight line car, and soley want it for dragging... stick with the locker..

But for everyday use, and just a few squirts here and there, the stock LSD item is sufficient

[Cubes]

The diff is probably different BUT..

When I had the VS V8 IRS Manual Commodore the diff first started to open wheel a little especially in the wet.

Then idling around corners with no accelerator slow speeds it felt like the diff was a slight locker. i.e the arse end would wobble a bit.

It started to get worse where if i was not perfectly in a straight line and riding the clutch waiting for traffic rolling back then creeping forward a little the diff would make the car have that slight wobble in the arse end like it was a locker and there was also like a slight click clunk type noise when the arse end was wobbling.

Then it all of a sudden was an open wheeler (occasional twin) then the bearings started making a loud grrrrrrrrrrrr on acceleration.

Apparently the bearings where buggered and also the cones which are like the clutch packs or what ever they are..

Replaced everything cost $1000 and the diff was tight enough that on full lock in a servo with the shinny surface the inside wheel would chirp.

Diff then whinned for a little after it was rebuild ?!?

He told me the diff had to be lapped in or somthing.

Anyway it did. whine stopped just before i sold the car thank god...

[jezzrrr]

Do mechanical lsd's take oil/diff additive, apparently this quietens them down alot