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The shop can tune it in one day but if you take it home straight away it may not cold start properly. They need to leave it over night to let the engine cool down completely.

It will also depend how modified your car is and what you want done that will determine how long it will take to tune. But if its pretty basic tune not too many mods (like my car) the shop normally quote about 6 hrs give or take.

it might pay for the tuner to take their time with regards to the stresses of putting the engine/gearbox/diffs under load for a long period of time. It just simply wears them out when oils get too hot..

2-3 hours is what I've been quoted.

The PFC comes with a base map which is pretty good. I've been driving round on it for about a month. Cold start isn't too bad either. Idles a bit low sometimes on relatively cold start.. but a apparently you are meant to let the car idle for 20 minutes when you first install it and put the aircon on etc (which I didn't do)

I'd be worried about my car on the dyno for 5-6 hours..bit of overkill in most applications. Go to somewhere that can tune by laptop - that will cut tuning costs in half..

Well i dyno tuned my PFC myself with my tuner and it took a good 2/3 hours and we didnt even play with the ignition maps. By the time you fiddle with light, medium and full loads and at each 400rpm point, you would be surprised how long it takes.

Mine took 1hr for only a wot tune, ignition and afr's.

And thats only modifying 3 load points over the rpm range. :)

That leaves 16 load points (I was using up to load point 19) left to tune. So if you worked on every single load point it would take a total of... 16/3 = 5.3hrs + the 3load points which brings it up to 6.3hrs.

Bodgy calc, but I can see how it can take so long if your really anal (I dislike that word) about having each load point perfect when using the hand controller.

Cold start is spot on with the pfc, as is warm (warm is bad with the rb20det pfc, use the rb25/rb26 values)

An area of improvement is the light and heavy load water temp injection correction table, Use the R34 values as its already been tweaked. ;)

Waldo, I would be curious as to see if your water temp injection correction table is close to the r34 one. Mine runs so so much better with the R34 table, the base table was flooding it causing the car to bog down at low rpm when stone cold i.e no warm up, simply start and drive off lightly.

Edited by Cubes

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