Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I say go with an RB30E + T, it would be far more driveable in everyday driving, I think it would probably be better in the hills with extra torque compared to a bit of extra breathing ability and I'd have to think it would be far cheaper and just as reliable as an RB25 at the power levels you're after

I am sick of the power that the car has got now i want easy 13 sec quatermile. I am happy with that so what ever it takes i wont say no if it goes quicker but it must be very reliable. i hate cars that have had all this money spent and they live in a work shop.

rb30det seems logical. Is there such a thing as a RB30et anyway?

RB30e Block rebuilt with a RB25DET VVT head on it would be the way to go i reckon. It is a very debateable topic...

I've attached a RB30DET build guide.

RB30_DOHC.pdf

How many rb25's blow up their ringlands at 250rwkw, vs rb30's that still have stock internals that survive at that power?

why is it that the top few spots of the r31 club have 100% STOCK rb30E bottom ends, except for a rb25 with forgies and gtr rods that can't even make top spot on c16 and semi's :angry: hehe

dunno who was using c16 and semi's... but it certainly wasnt me :)

And there are plenty making 250rwkw these days on stock RB25 (more actually)

Beats having to spend $$$$ on lots on SOHC head work :blink:

And what does the r31 club time have to do with it again?

Ifwe wanna get technical we can

dunno who was using c16 and semi's... but it certainly wasnt me    :D

And there are plenty making 250rwkw these days on stock RB25 (more actually)

Beats having to spend $$$$ on lots on SOHC head work :D

And what does the r31 club time have to do with it again?

Ifwe wanna get technical we can

was just some tongue in cheek stirring, nothing meant by it, i acutlaly thought u used c16 for that time, my bad.

the point with the r31 times was just an example that rb30E bottom end is just as strong and can take just as much power. im sure there are examples both ways however.

i have a RB30E+T, its done 200,000k's, gives me 10L/100k's fuel economy, has shit loads of torque and makes ~160rwkw everyday.

both motors are reliable, and ull make your 180rwkw on stock turbo/injectors, the only real difference is slight cost difference, and the feel of the motor

go for a drive in both and see which u like, the torque of the 30, or the revabilitly of the 25.

Edited by slow_r31

I would recommmend the RB25DET I have one fitted in my R31 using a turbo of a VG30DETT which I believe is the same size as standard just Ball Bearing running 14psi it makes 183 kw's at the wheels and I have run a best of 13.3 over the 1/4 @103MPH using cheap street tyres(TRX Rims for racing 17's for the street) my car weighs about 1400 kgs. For reliability I have been running that boost level for the last 18 months(54,000kms) since I purchased the car and it has not missed a beat once.

I have been to 2 Powercruise events each one consisted of 4 days(ECR). Drag Combat twice (WSID) and about 5 or 6 Street meets (WSID). all that plus I drive the car everyday to and from work which is about 400+ kms a week and I get just over 400kms to a tank of fuel.

: ) hope this helps somewhat with your decision

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Do the following first and get back to us. - Clean and verify your IACV - Verify for vacuum leaks/post MAF leaks. (Pressure test is the best and cheapest way) - Do you have a BOV with stock ecu/MAF? If so, remove it.     
    • Hey all, The skyline I have is stalling when the engine is at normal operating temp.  When starting it while it is cold, it'll run just fine.  I have replaced the battery (bad cell), I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter and clean the MAF sensor.  Any other suggestions?
    • Thanks for all the information on this.  I tried ordering the parts from Amayama website and all 3 Solenoids are discontinued and not available.  Does anyone have any other websites to suggest that I could find the parts?   Separate issue-- I will start a new thread, but basically the vehicle is stalling when warmed up.
    • It's unfortunate what Tomei USA has done to Tomei's name in general. I'm very weary of ordering parts from them now. I only order direct from a Japanse source (e.g Nengun). At least their logos are different, so you end up knowing what you have. 
    • Update Issues 5 (plus #4) - 10 After making a claim about issue #4's missing part, DeAgostini Japan sent a whole new issue #4 and it arrived about 2 weeks after that. That was back in early March. It took another 4 weeks to receive issues 5 - 13 though. This update is for issues 5 - 10. Ove the 5 issues the front left suspension and most of the engine have been completed. The quality of the castings and fit of the parts is quite good, it seems better than DeAgostini's BNR34 Skyline GT-R from the Fast & Furious 2 movie, which (to me anyway) doesn't seem to have as tight tolerances or quite as accurate castings.  Each issue has a lot of info about the 1989 - 1993 Skyline range and other Nissan models from that era, but the focus is on the BNR32 Skyline GT-R Nismo and the various racing it did in Japan, Europe (Spa 24hrs) and of course Australia. I've included some text translated with Google Lens in some photos and will add to them if there's anything worth including. 
×
×
  • Create New...