Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I bent my steering arm and need to get it replaced :D

My steering rack is straight and still works fine, like i can turn the wheels both ways.

I have had a look at the area where the arm connects to the steering rack and it seems like I can just replace the arm. Does anyone know if its possible or not?

If so, any pointers on removing the arm from the rack?

Oh, this is on a Series 1 R33 GTS-T

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91294-bent-steering-arm/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hey man,

Bad luck :(

In the end I replaced the inner and outer tie rods, the lower control arm & the tension arm.

Take a look at outer tie rod (the piece circled in red and white), if thats bent...replace it. Then take a look at your inner one (the piece not circled on that bar, connects to the wheel hub) and check to make sure the bit where the ball joint is hasnt exploded or is leaking grease everywhere. If it hasnt, then luckily you can just replace the bent outer rod :P

Also im assuming your lower control arm will be bent aswell (the bar in the pic with a hole in it). Need a new one of them.

Also my tension rod (the bar that has 2 bolts connecting it to the lower control arm) was shagged aswell. It was *slightly* bent but mainly was leaking grease at the pivot end.

All up heres what each bit cost me:

Lower control arm: $120 (Japanese wrecker, rip off)

Tension rod: $30 (Japanese wrecker, decent price)

Tie rod outer: $97 (Genuine NISSAN)

Tie rod inner: $130 (Genuine NISSAN)

I could have got it HEAPS cheaper if I had have waited for parts to be sent from interstate private wrecks or sourced them from local wrecks but I needed the car back on the road ASAP so I forked out :P.

Tips? Do the work yourself if possible. Most wreckers wont sell you the inner or outer tie rods individually (only as a whole steering rack), so look for a private wreck if you need them. Try to avoid new NISSAN parts at all costs - they are damn expensive.

And yes, inner tie rods can be removed from the rack end. Its a standard thread, probly need an adjustable to fit around it though.

Oh, and mark where the outer tie rod is up to on the inner one before you take it off, because when you put it back together, you will want it in the position again otherwise your wheel alignment will be all over the place. Its usualy a good idea to get a wheel alignment done once your finished anyway :)

Also I've included an illustration of the whole steering system from an R33 showing individual parts etc....helped me out :)

post-18921-1133163402.jpg

Edited by rinmak

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just checking, when we are talking about high temp fluid, are we all referring to DOT 5.1? I haven't had any issues with changing it every 2-3 years. 
    • Yeah that is still true AFAIK.....good brake fluid should be changed annually because it absorbs water faster which is more often than most mechanics would do it. There are cheap tools that check water% in brake fluid if you all scientific about it. I for sure would (do) run good brake fluid in anything that even casually saw the track like Murray said; avoiding the risk of "exciting" fade is worth it
    • Well, back in the day..... "race" fluids, which were essentially only really "high temp" fluids, used to absorb water more readily. So they really needed to be changed more often anyway. The coincidence of that being directly necessary along with it being what racers would do as a matter of course was just fine.
    • Does the high temp fluid degrade any different over time compared to normal one? That's one thing I've always been wondering. Because a track car is going to get the fluid flushed probably way more often than every two years and will see less kilometers driven. I would think the requirements are different. I'm running Motul RBF 600 in mine. Was recommended by my mechanic before a trackday and I've stuck with it since. Hasn't seen the track since but I've kept buying and using it for servicing anyway.
    • The brakes are all stock bar some DBA slotted discs and the EBC pads and braided lines. The car has brake ducts as standard but they're kinda pointed in the general direction of the brakes rather than really getting at the heat source. I guess I should hit it with an infra red thermometer after a session and see what they're at.  100%! Its just a curiosity more than anything. As I said, high temp brake fluid was such a track day rage back in the day. From people I speak to at the track and threads on here everybody has their own take on it but I'm not gonna scoff at spending a few more bucks.    OH, a quick side question - would you use brake fluid from an opened container even if the lid has been on? Eg, if you have a bottle that you opened last time you flushed, it's been tightly closed, is it still good? 
×
×
  • Create New...