Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I got part of the way through my brake conversion today before running into a little problem.. Attaching the brake lines to the calipers (R34 GTT). It would appear that the standard stagea brake lines will bolt straight into the new calipers but the bolt is too long. I didnt know if it would cause problems if i put a spacer on or some washers. Its only about 2 or 3 mm too long.

The bolt that I am talking about is the one that the brake fluid flows down. Can I buy another one that is shorter? Does it need to sit flush at the end of the hole? Like, when the bolt goes into the hole, the brake fluid comes down the centre of the bolt into the caliper, but does it matter if the bolt doesnt hit the end of the hole or does it need to sit off it a little bit?

*sigh* God I hope that makes sense.. Not sure what to do.

Thanks for any help.

Christian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91314-for-those-who-have-changed-calipers/
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

I got part of the way through my brake conversion today before running into a little problem.. Attaching the brake lines to the calipers (R34 GTT). It would appear that the standard stagea brake lines will bolt straight into the new calipers but the bolt is too long. I didnt know if it would cause problems if i put a spacer on or some washers. Its only about 2 or 3 mm too long.

The bolt that I am talking about is the one that the brake fluid flows down. Can I buy another one that is shorter? Does it need to sit flush at the end of the hole? Like, when the bolt goes into the hole, the brake fluid comes down the centre of the bolt into the caliper, but does it matter if the bolt doesnt hit the end of the hole or does it need to sit off it a little bit?

*sigh* God I hope that makes sense.. Not sure what to do.

Thanks for any help.

Christian

so long as the brake line is in the same position on the union bolt as it would be without the spacers then it shouldn`t matter..it must have a copper washer either side of brake line to bolt connection and another on between caliper and spacers wouldn`t hurt as the washer for that seal is now moved .and yes you can get the right size union bolt and that would be the best thing to do :)

so long as the brake line is in the same position on the union bolt as it would be without the spacers then it shouldn`t matter.

I am not sure what you mean about this...

So the union bolt doesn't need to bunt up against the end of the hole? Where would somebody get smaller union bolts?

And, the ring that the union bolt goes through, does the bolt hole (where the fluid comes in) need to line up with the hole on the ring? or does that not matter?

I hope I am making sense.

Christian

I am not sure what you mean about this...

So the union bolt doesn't need to bunt up against the end of the hole? Where would somebody get smaller union bolts?

And, the ring that the union bolt goes through, does the bolt hole (where the fluid comes in)  need to line up with the hole on the ring? or does that not matter?

I hope I am making sense.

Christian

the joint butts up against caliper to seal ...so it should be ..caliper..seal..spacer..seal..brake line..seal bolt head ,hole in union bolt does not need to line up ...fluid will find hole under pressure ..hence the seals

bolts available any brake speciallist,wherever you get master cylinder repairs done ? ..we use B.H.S.S up here in brisbane ..and of course nissan would have them ,should be a common part

Hey Jake,

thanks heaps for the info, but at the end of the hole that the union bolt goes in, does it need to be a set distance from the end?

closest to the bottom is best .i was presuming bolt was bottoming out anyway which left space between caliper and brake hose ..which is the difference that needs to be spaced out to keep hose in line with union bolt flow hole

Hey SK,

I will take some snaps tomorrow.

Jake - thats exactly whats happening, the union bolt is bottoming out and leaving a few mm of thread outside the hole.

Christian

Christian I reckon you just need a bolt the right length...conventry fasteners in seven hills or artarmon, lee bros in paramatta, mullings fasteners in mascot should have one.

I don't understand why the length would be different in the new caliper tho? I am assuming you are talking about the hollow bolt in the "banjo" fitting where the brake line goes into the caliper?

Duncan, thats exactly the bit I am talking about. The new calipers had stiff metal short lines already bolted in but they wouldnt attach anywhere to the existing lines, so i unbolted those and am now bolting in the stagea ones.

Again, does that make sense? I really wish I knew all the names of these bits.

Thanks for the names of those places, I'll check them out tomorrow, I'd prefer to get the right bit before using spacers/washers.

Christian

Christian, if you have any troubles sourcing the parts from Coventry in Artarmon, but the Seven Hill store has them, or Lee Bros in Parra has them, let me know if need be - I work in Parra and live virtually on the border of Toongabbie and Seven Hills.

Now that I've got my Stagea, knowing where to source parts close to home (if need be) is going to be invaluable...

Cheers,

Nick T.

Hey Nick, did you buy Alan's? Either way, so cool mate and thanks will let you know... heres the latest.

Nissan have given me the same part number for WGNC34 and R34 GTT front brake union bolts... So, I'm assuming that the R34 ones have a bigger donut thingy? maybe I can just use a small spacer after all...

Stagezilla - where from? I will buy them now!!!

The latest;

Pittwater Brake and Clutch have quoted me $215 PER caliper to overhaul them and re-drill them.... bugger that.

Heres some piccies of what I am talking about..

Standard R34 caliper and line... see how it seats into the hole and sits flush at the end?

post-3-1129513924.jpg

Standard C34 caliper and banjo bolt (round bit is still on the car)

post-3-1129513973.jpg

So, they are apparently not interchangable... So, I guess the last option is new brake lines, either braded or just from an R34?? Whata does everybody suggest?

Oh... and a very cute sleeping ferret. :D

post-3-1129514073.jpg

Ok, I just spoke to Racebrakes and am taking my brake line out there now to get them to make me some lines.

Also, gotta say, the bloke I spoke to was SO helpful, always makes such a difference when you speak to somebody who is keen to help.

Christian

Hey Nick, did you buy Alan's? Either way, so cool mate and thanks will let you know... heres the latest.

Nissan have given me the same part number for WGNC34 and R34 GTT front brake union bolts... So, I'm assuming that the R34 ones have a bigger donut thingy? maybe I can just use a small spacer after all...

Hey Christian, yeah, I bought Alan's Stagea - something at the SnS was just kinda "telling" me that it would eventually be mine. He was super genuine and had nothing to hide, and took me and my old man for a good hour's drive around the Central Coast, then after we'd both driven it we went back to the garage he works at and he showed us under and around the car again...

I'm more than happy with my decision, but getting used to the fuel consumption is a different matter, especially after 11 years of driving a 1.6l Corolla (which we've kept in the family and I still use to get to work).

Hey, on another subject, I met Rohan/Rowan (sp?) the other night at my friend's house. He as in "unfamilia" from back in the late SDU days... He says he used to work with you! Small world, hey?!?!?

Nick T.

umm i think i was wrong, a banjo bolt is the type that is used for oil and water lines for the turbo. A side on pic of the fitting would be easier to see.

anyway all that aside new brake lines with the right fittings will do the trick. You will probably need to take either the whole car or the new calipers and old lines so they can get it right.

A cheaper option would be rubber lines from St Marys Brake and Clutch or similar

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Out here E90s are the cheapest way into a sporty-ish car because everyone knows just how expensive the repairs can get. 8-10k USD for an automatic 335i. 
    • Noted. Have noticed BMW are more 'high maintenance' for sure. They've attracted my attention as I think the used car prices seem reasonable vs other options, and the extra quality overall vs a commodore / camry / corolla or similar of the same vintage is appealing, especially the interior, and they are more on the sporty side whereas the others mentioned can be more cruising or economical A-to-B only.
    • Haha yeah I know, this is SAU after all, why are we talking about BMW's of all things!? I hear you on the 'don't have to worry about it' side of things. Having been fortunate enough to be have been able to buy a brand new motorbike or two...never really enjoyed them as much as I'd have liked as you worry so much about where you park it, will it get scratched, stolen, attempted theft, knocked over, etc...and yes dirty. Older less valuable bikes you can just go where you want and park it wherever and not really worry that much in comparison. And who cares if it gets dirty! Never owned a V8, and have had my eyes on VE / VF commodores for years but with their prices climbing so high, the M3 has come into focus more as prices are much closer than I've ever seen...is it a potential contender now?...of course need to factor in the S65 'maintenance' especially and like you said general M car 'tax'. One can dream anyway. But more on the reality front - did read the whole 330i thread as well and was a great read too, both threads enlightening as I've never even driven one of these cars! I do recall 330i didn't seem to have the same amount of issues for almost the same car (turbos and related differences notwithstanding)...perhaps down to getting it earlier in it's life so looked after better than the 335i? Perhaps so as your 130i has been good and quite similar, so finding a car that's been looked after well is the especially-crucial-BMW-first-step.
    • Nice. Dont worry about the time of not running. My current skyline hasn't run since I bought it. About 8 years ago.
    • It's also worth noting that I am heavily and unconditionally biased. I've had a lot of cars including some GTRs a fair while ago. I love my BMW's now a lot. They make no sense a lot of the time and the guys on here remind me regularly that I could get something else that does what I want better and cheaper. If you're going to take on an older BMW it's definitely a commitment. If you bail on it early you'll lose money and also the ability for it to put a smile on your face. Stick with it and it just gets better.  f**k I should get into advertising.  
×
×
  • Create New...