Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey again, well now that i find out that the R32 GTS-t was never officially imported, only the 32 GT-R, is there anything special i would need to know before i purchase the car, like do i need the compliance papers and stuff? or would a RWC be enough? because i havent asked the fella im buying it off if he had a compliance certificate with him, but he does have a RWC, so would i only need the RWC to get the rego transferred or do i need to get the compliance certificate as well? help would be great

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91328-import-registration/
Share on other sites

hey again, well now that i find out that the R32 GTS-t was never officially imported, only the 32 GT-R, is there anything special i would need to know before i purchase the car, like do i need the compliance papers and stuff? or would a RWC be enough? because i havent asked the fella im buying it off if he had a compliance certificate with him, but he does have a RWC, so would i only need the RWC to get the rego transferred or do i need to get the compliance certificate as well? help would be great

Does it have a compliance AU compliance plate on the car?

I take it it has not been registed in AU before.

you need import approval and a compliance certificate.. The guy you are buying the car off should have both.

hope this helps.

[/quote

thanks, i was under the impression that if it had a current QLD roadworthy certificate it would be able for the rego to be transferred, so i need the rwc and the compliance certificate for the transfer papers?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
×
×
  • Create New...