Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After doing a search I could not find any useful information. How much should I be paying for a 92-93 R32 GTS-T in near perfect condition? Doesn't matter if it is stock or a few mods just important that it is clean and looked after as much as possible ie: not thrashed. I have been told by some people that I can get one for under 10k and by others that a good one is up to 20k so I'm very confused.

Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91343-r32-gts-t/
Share on other sites

After doing a search I could not find any useful information. How much should I be paying for a 92-93 R32 GTS-T in near perfect condition? Doesn't matter if it is stock or a few mods just important that it is clean and looked after as much as possible ie: not thrashed. I have been told by some people that I can get one for under 10k and by others that a good one is up to 20k so I'm very confused.

Cheers!

Hey R32

I'd say somewhere in the middle is about right...yes you can get them for 10k if you import yourself or search hard enough but I reckon 13-15 is a little more accurate - especially seeing as though you can get an R33 for 15k+

Hope this helps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91343-r32-gts-t/#findComment-1645262
Share on other sites

Hey R32

I'd say somewhere in the middle is about right...yes you can get them for 10k if you import yourself or search hard enough but I reckon 13-15 is a little more accurate - especially seeing as though you can get an R33 for 15k+

Hope this helps

Sorry I meant until_we_rich :O

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91343-r32-gts-t/#findComment-1645265
Share on other sites

well ive been on the market for a 91 GTS-t and ive seen some with a RWC ready to register condition for 9500, in manual form with 120 000kms......it wasnt in the greatest condition but it wouldnt take much to bring it to immaculate

as for over the $20 000 mark, most are GT-R's and at the high end of 20 000,

but 15grand for a road registered, immaculate condition GTS-t 91-93 isnt a bad price at all

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91343-r32-gts-t/#findComment-1645723
Share on other sites

For an immaculate R32GTS-t you could pay $14k but thats quite high thus meaning very low km's and near showroom condish; thats stock. You can pick up R32's for $10k but i woudn't usually reccomend them, a good price to grab a good R32 stockish woule be about $11,500-$13,000 to give a safe margin for km's and condish, would never be paying anywhere near $20k for an R32 GTS-t, as said in the Castle, "tell em theyr'e bloody dreaming".

Cheers

Edited by WhatBrake
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91343-r32-gts-t/#findComment-1647892
Share on other sites

You'll be looking at $15k..

If you want 'new' feel and look in a near 15 year old car, you *will* pay a premium...

Any less than that, you'll get obvious wear, and/or most of the bushes, brakes, etc will have to be replaced. It won't cost you too much less in the long run probably.

I'd pay $20k for an R32 if it had an engine swap and/or big turbo and big HP and decent suspension setup... Will crap over an R33 of the same price.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91343-r32-gts-t/#findComment-1648169
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Everything I found online said never use it because it'll dramatically reduce belt lifespan.  No, but I have seen excessive v-belt tension cause the audible bearing noise from excessive radial load in things like alternators. So don't overdo it. Ideally you set it to manufacturer spec using a proper belt tension guage. I tried the "clicker" type gauges but those cheap things are trash. They read way too low even when you're careful.
    • This is kind of where I've ended up for the most part. It's easier for me, easier for shops that don't have to deal with my weird criteria/picky standards, etc.
    • Will do. Suprised if it's not the starter motor considering it's 30 years old. Will get a volt meter though. Battery is close to new.   Cheers for your help, always appreciated.
    • This almost never happens these days. No. Clean your battery terminals and make sure they are tight. Use sandpaper on a dowel if you have to, to get oxidation off the inside of the terminals, particularly on the -ve. Check the earth cable from battery post to chassis ground and engine ground. Make sure the contact surfaces are clean - including the threads on the bolts that anchor them - because that's where a lot of the contact occurs. Wire wheel on a drill is a good thing for this. Make sure the crimps on those cables are all sound. Assuming none of that causes an improvement: Check the battery voltage after it has been resting for a while. If it's at the lower end of the range, put it on charge for a while, then see if it will crank better.
    • I just checked my belt, it wasn't super loose but I could bend it past 90 degrees a small amount so I tightened it up and for the first time ever my car didn't crank first time, had to crank it again lol. Don't know if that was because I tightened the belt or if it's my starter motor going out (been having slow starts for some time). Coulda also been when I was recording I didn't crank the key properly and it didn't save the recording lol.   Is that a thing if you overtighten a belt it struggles to start?
×
×
  • Create New...