Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well on a GTR you really need to put the sensor after the front pipes join so you get a reading (average) from all 6 cylinders instead of front or rear 3 only.

But for a GTST I can't see why not? Closer to the exhaust ports means a more accurate reading

  • Replies 103
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well on a GTR you really need to put the sensor after the front pipes join so you get a reading (average) from all 6 cylinders instead of front or rear 3 only.

But for a GTST I can't see why not?  Closer to the exhaust ports means a more accurate reading

Or you could by two kits from TE and get a reading of the front 3 and the back three, be good to compare anyway

The GTR thing makes sense, but 2 x WBO2 kits is getting a bit exorbinant, my only other issue would be with comparing the accuracy.

It says it's setup to emulate a Bosch LSM-11, what do Skylines run by default, and how close are they to this?

My guess would be there's not much difference, and that it shouldn't effect the car much, but if it did you'd notice the shit fuel economy pretty quick!

Looking thru the stats on these, they have an simulated Narrow band outpur (NBsim), is anyone using this?

i.e. Completely replacing the stock O2 sensor with the new WB one, then plumbing the NBsim output in to your ECU, or are you just mounting both?

The recently sold race car (not a Skyline) was done this way, it worked fine. The only problem is you have to leave the unit in the car all the time, if you take it out there is no lambda sensor input to the ECU ie; no closed loop running. I did that for a couple of days without thinking about it, driving around (rally rego) to signwriters etc and it sure guzzled the gas.

While I am tuning the Stagea (for a week or so, in all conditions) I wil run NBsim, remove the standard S&N lambda sensor and replace it with the F&W one. That way I won't have a cable running through the cabin and an expensive lambda sensor hanging out the rear. Asking to be hit or stolen.

: cheers :P

Edited by Sydneykid

Hi SK,

The dicksmiths whisper 2000 is no longer available. But it has been replaced with a better unit: http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefro...duct/View/Y1140

My question is how do you modify the microphone so that it somehow detects knock from an engine-mouted clip?

Can someone post up what pinging through one of these chassis ears sounds like?

LM1 vs techedge? WHich one SK do you prefer?

Thanks

Hi SK,

1. The dicksmiths whisper 2000 is no longer available. But it has been replaced with a better unit: http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefro...duct/View/Y1140

2. My question is how do you modify the microphone so that it somehow detects knock from an engine-mouted clip?

3. Can someone post up what pinging through one of these chassis ears sounds like?

4. LM1 vs techedge? WHich one SK do you prefer?

Thanks

Suggestions follow;

1. I haven't seen one of the new style, but I assume it can be modified to suite. All it really needs is a long piece of shielded cable so you can clamp the mike in the engine bay and have the amp and headphones in the cabin. If someone has the complete Autospeed article, maybe they can post it up.

2. The one I saw had no mike mods that I could see, you just clamped it in a convenient place, the standard knock sensor retaining bolts work for me.

3. Sorry, not me, I don't have a portable recorder these days

4. I have used the TechEdge yet, so I can't really say. I chose the Tech Edge this time (over another LM1) mostly for the 1MB logging capacity on board and the number of logging inputs. They are extra cost items on the LM1, plus I like making electronics kits.

:( cheers :)

I have been in contact with tech edge and will be organising a group buy for those interested.

Will get the ball rolling after i get back from Drift Nationals this weekend

any idea on price?

also anyone got a cheap source for a exhaust clamp/venturi pipe?

id be interested in one im pretty sure (well i want an afr meter, just not sure which yet)

edit: depends on price....the pre-assembled ones seem to approach the cost of a lm-1 unit after a quick check of the order page

Edited by NewKleer

We will await SK's completion and see how it stacks up against the LM-1.

Oh and the G/B will be something for the new year, im sure not everone has a spare $600 round christmas time.

sorry, left out the word "kit" - im not getting the assembled one.

btw i asked earlier about anyone knowing about price for venturi pipe/exhaust clamp - http://www.rocketindustries.com.au/descrip...p?partno=IM3728 has them for $132 (best ive found so far)

Edited by NewKleer

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome Gabriel, and thanks for saving one of the less famous cousins!
    • Wanting to avoid this if possible but kinda looking like I may not have a choice 😭
    • Ok awesome thank you. Just wanted to have them in case I can find some and need to compare part numbers!
    • All I can say Duncan is good luck and I hope that Neil did not run any E85 in Cheryl. I have recently experienced the full spectrum of fuel tank issues in my R33's that had been caused by E85 and contaminated fuel. When you take the cover off the top of the tank and have a look inside you will get an understanding of how easy it will be. Best case situation is clean fuel with minimal contamination. My GTR was like this and it was a very simple operation to just grab the fuel pump carrier bracket and slide it up and out of the tank. My three GTS_T's had different levels of fuel contamination that was probably caused by E85 in the fuel.  In the worst case all of the metal components in the tank had rusted to the point where there were pieces of rusted metal swirling around in the tank. This required the removal of the exhaust, the tailshaft, the complete rear cradle and the fuel tank. The components in the tank were that rusted that it took days to get the fuel pump carrier and the mounting brackets out of the tank. When the tank was finally cleaned, everything inside the tank had to be replaced. With the tank all back together I could then reinstall it in the car along with everything else that had to come out. Good luck and I hope that you find a clean tank.    
    • It is a two door. It is black and also still has the OEM wheels and stereo. Exact model would be KR_R32RGFEL_SS According to GTR-Registry.com is a 2 Door Coupe; RB20DE; 2WD no HICAS; MT.F5; (11L) Projector Headlamps and Fog Lights; (12_) Electronic Active Full Auto Air Con (Climate Control); (13-14SS) V Selection -- Which seems to be accurate description of my variant. Will try to upload a few pictures soon. The OEM wheels look like the below image. Image is taken from the goo-net-exchange website.  
×
×
  • Create New...