Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got any further with this SK? Ive been looking for another kit to build, as ive just finished my last :)

Looking forward to seeing how this comes out....

Yep, I installed all of the resistors on the 2A1 PCB last night, tonight I might finish the rest of the components.

;) cheers :)

  • Replies 103
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

gary im just trying to work out but am i right in assuming the inputs go to the ecu?  (not electronically minded)\

it prob says all this in the instructions anyway....

The only inputs to the TE 2A1 I am going to use (other than the F&W lambda sensor of course) is rpm and AFM voltage. Both of those are available at the pins on the ECU plug.

Did that answer your question?

:) chers ;)

just as another question, if not running an afm which input would you connect to?

Whatever the other (than rpm) axis is on the ignition and fuel maps, I would assume that's MAP sensor. What you are trying to do is to have logs that tell you what changes to make in your maps to achieve the target A/F ratios. So it makes sense to me to use the relevant maps axis in the logging. I just reckon it is easier that way.

:) cheers :)

Quick update, finished building the kit last night;

Tech_Edge_2A1_Made.jpg

As usual once I got past the tedious resistor installs, the rest was easy. Now it is just a matter of testing it, then it will be ready for use. More updates shortly.

:) cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid

am i right in saying that you need to solder each one of those little witchety grub looking things onto the board? how long do you reckon it took to build?

looks very neat though. :)

SK - some questions on the lambda sensor:

Where would you recommend the sensor be placed for a GT-R?

Given the relatively cheap cost of the sensors, it ist advantageous to use more then one (eg. one for each "branch" on the front pipes)?

Can the meter monitor/log more than one sensor?

Does your sensor use a standard spark plug bung?

Sorry about all the questions, but I'm very interested given the relatively low cost compared to the valuable information that these can provide.

Cheers

Gav

SK - some questions on the lambda sensor:

1. Where would you recommend the sensor be placed for a GT-R?

2. Given the relatively cheap cost of the sensors, it ist advantageous to use more then one (eg. one for each "branch" on the front pipes)?

3. Can the meter monitor/log more than one sensor?

4. Does your sensor use a standard spark plug bung?

Sorry about all the questions, but I'm very interested given the relatively low cost compared to the valuable information that these can provide.

Cheers

Gav

Hi Gav, suggestion to your questions follow;

1. The closer to the turbine outlet the quicker the response to changes in A/F ratio. ie; make a change and see the result instantly. The further away from the tailpipe the less likely to get ambient air contamination, which can be a problem at low airflows with big exhaust outlets. We have the F&W lambda sensor on the race cars just after where the engine pipes join. No ambient air contamination and very fast response, as fast as the lambda sensor itself in fact.

2. Nope, waste of money I reckon. We do have 4 X lambda sensors on the engine dyno for tuning the SuperTourer engines. But 2 on 6 cylinders, I can't see much of an advantage.

3. Not that I can see

4. Standard lambda sensor bung

Hope that answered your questions

:) Cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid
Richard, you can also buy it as a prebuilt kit about $100 more

hmmm, maybe team Rice and Team Raceworx should chip in and buy one? :P

I have been using an LM-1 for about a year on a WRX semi-race car. It has been reliable and very helpful. I log the 0-5 volts to a Race Technology DL1, when I remember to turn it on (about 50% success rate on that :D ).

Edited by clayoth
I have been using an LM-1 for about a year on a WRX semi-race car.  It has been reliable and very helpful.  I log the 0-5 volts to a Race Technology DL1, when I remember to turn it on (about 50% success rate on that :P ).

What sort of stuff have you picked up? On the race cars I keep finding little areas on the maps (load/rpm) where I can tidy up the A/F ratios. I reckon I have changed about 800 of the 1200 load points on the Motec. Most only by small increments, some by more than I would have anticipated was possible.

Next year I am going to spend a lot less time on race team stuff and more time on my own cars. Using the Datalogit, I am hoping to do similar with the knock sensor readings and the ignition timing. I reckon that there is a heap of time to be had from improving the response through the whole rpm range with fuel trim and ignition advance. Stuff that you can't do on the dyno, well I guess you could, but it would take days and cost a bomb.

:) cheers ;)

PS; no progress on the Tech Edge kit yesterday or today as I have been helping to get a number of Group Buy suspension kits out. Saturday I am out at the A1 GP, so it might be early next week before I can get back to finish it.

Slightly OT I know, but further on from talking about A/F logging to adjust tuning, are there any aftermarket ECU's that use wideband O2 sensors as a major imput ala Porsche OEM style?

Both Motec and Autronic have "self tune" using an F&W lambda sensor. You basically input a target A/F ratio and they adjust the fuel maps to it as you drive. For example 2 laps of Bathurst to tune a Mazda 2.5litre V6 starting with simple basic maps. If I remember rightly the Electromotive also does similar.

I haven't seen one that does ignition timing based on a knock sensor input, yet. Now that would complete the self tune picture and turn dynos into dynosaurs.

:( cheers ;)

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • it takes so long to get things done but ... they are nearly there and we hitting the track soon again  So - at Perth Festival of Speed the car unfortunately had a decent off, wasnt me driving, wasnt the person drivings fault. Long story short car got sent very fast towards the wall without the control on throttle from the driver input and a disaster was averted but there was damage that needed to be fixed - carbon busted and alot of bent bits The splitter got munched and had to go back to get fixed - took a bit to get it there, fixed and back but got a surprise package when a new double element higher DF splitter came back - nice surprise !  and first person to have one     At a car show I took the car too some punks stole one of my carbon indicator blanks and stomped on the other so had to get a new set of headlight / indicator combo from tops stage so got front fender vents as well to put in the order     While all this was happening the new MCA golds turned up and did some fiddling around with those   Put in the flappy paddle system and clutch lockout wiring/ system   We have also put shorter gearing in top top it out at 300 kmph in 6th gear  where previously I held 5th to 282 at SMP and 277 in Perth   Looking for better control and faster acceleration     I wasnt intending on doing pedal box I was managing with the brake master replacement system I had going on and adjusted std pedals but on applying the clutch switch to the old system we found the *insert technical word here * bar that goes from the pedal to the master was bent about 40 deg and about to snap = lucky find otherwise be a bad bad time - discussion was had about getting a custom bar built to withstand the load but in reality it was time      making any suspension, wheel or anything adjustments to date has been a nightmare - aero off, adjust, check and repeat - time consuming and hard - short of going full airjack system we fashioned some external manual car lifts this will make life a million times easier     All the bent framing, some intercooler pipes and other has been fixed and replaced and after 6 months I finally have the car back at home in my control so its get to work on it, set ride heights, wheel align and will start track testing again soon   So ultimately other than a few flashy bits nothing actually looks likes its been done but in reality alot has. Typical   We'll see how all this goes        
    • I'm far from an expert, but for sticking bits of metal together occasionally I got a MIG, the biggest one I could get with a 10a plug (because while I have some 15a GPOs around, they are not everywhere).  Also, because I get through SFA, I just buy the small disposable gas bottles at Bunnings, I'm not opening a BOC account to get through 1/10th of a full size bottle each year
    • FWD is different though.
    • Ignore the BOV / recirc valve question. You have an NA and shouldn't have one. If there magically is one though... It should be removed, though it shouldn't really effect it in the way one will for a turbo motor with it venting to atmosphere while running an afm.
×
×
  • Create New...