Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I'm about to get a 90 gtr, and its completely stock, how can i make it into low 12's with 4 grand, can someone guide me through with parts to get and good sites to get them from. And is it even possible to get low 12's with 4 grand and not having parts break down easily?

I dont want the car just for track i just want it a low 12 second car for a driven car day to day but go to the tack 5 times a year. Would I have to focus on putting aftermarket clutch etc?

Again like i said before, if anyone could help that would awesome!

powerfc, exhaust and 1bar of boost will definetly get u into the low 12s, cam gears are not necessary.

a close friends car has only these 3 modifications (standard clutch still) and it has run a 12.3 with room for improvement. And that was a 33gtr, a 32 is lighter so should be easier to get a low 12.

so powerfc = 1000

exhaust =1500

tune = 600

around 3000 is enough money.

get the powerfc from the forum, any exhaust shop can do the exhaust, and the tune is your personal choice.

Edited by siksII
I forecast you blow a turbo before you run a 12, watch the ceramic little bastards, I was in a 32 on the weekend when one let go. Be very careful

Hi Flipmo,

What did it feel like/sound like when the turbine died?

Obviously do all the maintenece stuff first, timing belt (if you dont know the history of hte car), fluids etc...

And winding the turbos to 1bar is your choice, some turbos last some don't. I did over 40,000ks on my stock turbos on 1bar including half a dozen track days. and they were still fine.

Timing belt is most important.

Change all the fluids for nice new fresh stuff.

Get a compression/leak down test to make sure the engine is healthy (should of had this done before buying anyway)

Get it tuned/put on a dyno to make sure its running ok before giving it stick.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Re read everything that has been written about this in this thread.. Let us know if you're still confused.
    • This would be a new pump with new gears. I'm just unclear on whether it's a good idea to run more oil pump flow if you don't actually need said flow. Oil level is set a minute or so after shutting off a warm engine so wouldn't the high RPM oil level in the sump end up lower all things equal? Plan is OEM clearances, main concern in my mind is whether the OEM pump can keep up with the flow requirements of any additional oil coolers.
    • Don't do what I did, use a 300000km old housing with billet gears. The old pump probably was clearanced with saw dust, Edward Lee's special engine treatment sauce and a good odo wind back. I had oil pressure issues, then replaces pump with new housing, new billet gears and 2x track day later binned a motor due to other oil related issues due to a previous engine builder. Long story short, buy a M2 or 3 or 4 N55/S55/S58 and enjoy life.
    • Yeah. "New pump" does not have to mean "massive pump".
    • Well, can you still get an OEM pump, and by the time you're buying a Nismo/N1 etc, just buy another aftermarket pump. It's better to have the pump able to flow more if its needed, than for your pressure to drop off. At any point in time, you're replacing the oil pump in a rebuild. Aftermarket pumps are likely going to be a better economical choice, and they don't have any negatives, even if they can flow more.   Also, when you're saying "replace the pump gears" are you meaning leave a 25+ year old housing in the engine with unknown wear, and just put new gears in? As that sounds silly to me, especially if you do have that minute amount of wear, that means your new pump gears now have a little bit more clearance beside them, which means, whelp, you may not get to build a lot of oil pressure or make a lot of flow.
×
×
  • Create New...