Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering, someone wants to buy the shell of my car with the driveline, but without wheels and suspension.

How do you get that towed?

I'm assuming you'd have to keep it on some sort of stand?

And you'd need a special company to do the towing?

Any help is appreciated, thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91419-how-do-you-towdeliver-a-shell/
Share on other sites

Hey dark,

Towing body shells is no issue for me, as long as you and the buyer don't mind the underbody of the car getting scratched from dragging onto the truck and sliding it off at the other end. Mind you it doesn't actually do any structural harm to the underbody...

Call me when you ready to discuss this further 0419877437..

Cheers

Hey dark,

Towing body shells is no issue for me, as long as you and the buyer don't mind the underbody of the car getting scratched from dragging onto the truck and sliding it off at the other end. Mind you it doesn't actually do any structural harm to the underbody...

Call me when you ready to discuss this further 0419877437..

Cheers

Shouldn't be an issue.

I'll give you a call tomorrow morning.

Thanks Jack.

Hey JAGR33 do you have a way to move em without scratching? dolly wheels or something?  Its a problem I seem to have too often, trying to move a car without wheels :(

Maybe tie the car to some packing crates (the ones for use with forklifts)..?

i might give that a go

Hey JAGR33 do you have a way to move em without scratching? dolly wheels or something?  Its a problem I seem to have too often, trying to move a car without wheels :angry:

Duncan, your right, the proper way to drag it onto the truck is to use what they call 'ambulance wheels', but only panel shops have usually got them... I don't have them coz they are big and bulky which means I can't store them anywhere on the track and the main reason being I hardly ever need them...

dark, palletts usually work but sometimes get caught on the end of the tray when dragging the car up, resulting in the car sliding onto the tray and the crate staying on the ground. Once you get it over the little lip on the tray it's all good, although getting it off at the other end can be a problem aswell....

The way id go about it

* Buy (steal) a 2 tonne pallet (i buy ~30 at a time for ~$12 each 2nd hand refurbished)

* Put car on jackstands and strip as needed

* Put pallet under the car and lower it on

* Get a flatbed with a forky (the same as what bricks are delivered on) to come and fork the car onto the flatbed

* Deliver as needed

Or.. the cheap ass method...drag it on as suggested above...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got the motor out and torn down. I'll be dropping off the block Monday. Luckily the scoring on Cyl6 is much less pronounced then the pictures made it out to seem. It can barely be felt. If you pass your finger over it 10x you'll barely notice it. Hopefully by some chance it will only require a honing. I'm not in the mood to buy one size larger pistons or another block. Oddly enough my 6th cylinder with the scoring has extremely clean intake valves compared to my other 5 cylinders. I'm worried the scoring was caused by too much fuel or Water/Methanol washing the cylinder. I'll review some old logs to confirm.  This was also the first time I pull an engine with the transmission still attached. It went much better then expected. I was worried my CD009 wouldn't make it easy due to its sheer size but it was much easier this way. 
    • From the pictures I have when doing the job the flywheel is the same diameter, I don't think they're playing weird tricks like putting weights at the outer diameter to increase flywheel inertia or anything like that. The OEM flywheel is definitely heavier, but it's not a huge difference. Quoted weight savings of the clutch is 2 kg so I can't imagine the flywheel being lighter than ~7 kg. Kind of regret not weighing it before the clutch went into the car but as far as driveability goes I have no complaints.
    • HKS trigger kit should be very easy to integrate with a Link. It's a 36-2 crank trigger. Hard part is finding the motivation to take off the timing belt and everything on the front of the engine to install it. You also need to cut out a hole in the oil pump housing so the sensor can read the trigger wheel. Changing out the cam sensor for a 24 tooth setup is probably good enough but as others have mentioned depending on what underlying assumptions are changed it becomes more of a problem. Reading the crank state off of the cam is an abstraction that works in the general case, but if you have an edge case it makes less and less sense. There is a GTX2860 gen 2 that can take a compact 5 bolt housing so it's direct bolt on but I'm not 100% sure of what's involved. Peak compressor efficiency drops off a bit on these turbos vs -5s, 77% vs 73% but you get way, way wider region of operation. The -5s have a really strange surge line in their compressor map that is all over the place. If you think the hot side on the -5s aren't open enough you can try the Tomei T550B turbos which a local tuner seems to be happy with:
    • i need a complete tail light for my R33 GTR if you have please let me know.
    • I need a great maintenance workshop around Idaho, if you know one please let me know..
×
×
  • Create New...