Mono Block Amps?

[PHT33]

Would anyone happen to know, may-be from experience, what sort of mono-block amp would be ideal for running a kenwood 12" sub (the 'tornado' looking one)?

[shanef]

I'm getting an Alpine MRD 60S for $369 to run my 2 12" Rockford Fosgate subs.

Another Chris Rogers special

[skylineguy19]

all depends on wat power the sub is rated at also.

[oRiCLe]

Jaycar/Response monoblock...

[PHT33]

Jaycar/Response monoblock...

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks,

Do you know what the power rating is on this amp? Any idea of a ball park figure?

[oRiCLe]

at what ohm rating, they are underrated so they are more like 1000wRMS at 1 ohm, and prolly 4-500wRMS at 4ohm and 7-900wRMS at 2ohm ? just guessing but the factory rating is:

4ohm: 400wRMS

2ohm: 700wRMS

1ohm: 800wRMS

[djhatton]

hi mate!

i wouldn't be too concerned with the "amount" of power the amp has, at this level. you must realise that the difference between 100w and 200w is only 3db. try to use the sub's power "rating" as a guide only because theres not really such a thing as a sub with 200w or 600w. no sub has watts.

oh and don't necessarily buy based on "label". if you had a choice between a 50w orion and a 800w boss, chose the orion, for example.

get your box for the subbie right, invest in some good installation accessories like calbing and mounting hardware etc, have a play around with the sub's position (which way it faces, angle, etc etc) and have some fun!

best of luck

david

[PHT33]

Thanks for the clarity on that, djhatton. Just found the box, so can now look at the specs.

Kenwood KFC-W3009

-Peak power 800W

-Maximum power 400W

-Rated power (RMS?) 200W

-Weight 4.85kg

-Impedence 4 Ohms

-Frequency response 25~800Hz

-Sensitivity 93 dB/W @ 1m

Now armed with this info, does anyone know what brand/model mono-block amp would be suitable to run this sub to its specifications?

[oRiCLe]

still rate the response for power for dollars...

# 12" 4-ohm subwoofer

# pearl mica injection-molded polypropylene woofer cone with urethane foam surround

# overlapping ribs on cone surface for improved rigidity and dampened resonance

# extended pole piece and bumped back plate for increased cone excursion

# power range: 35-400 watts RMS (800 watts peak power)

# frequency range: 25-800 Hz

# sensitivity: 93 dB

# top mount depth: 5-5/16"

# sealed box volume: 1.0 cubic feet

# ported box volume: 1.5 cubic feet

# Recommended Q-Logic Box Type: 1, 2, 3

# warranty: 1 year

found that rating on google for ur sub so theoreticallly the amp and sub are well matched in their ratings 400wRMS at 4 ohms

albeit, you can get an amp that is more powerful than the sub, just dont turn the gain up too high, and vice versa, u can get a amp that is rated less than the sub that is a better quality brand and get a cleaner sound out of it...

depends what you are looking for, take the sub and box to a car audio place maybe and ask to try some amps see if they make a difference?

[PHT33]

Thank-you very much oRiCLe,that sounds like a great idea. Bought the sub from WOW for $90 (clearance item) and a sony XM-504Z for $230 but it just doesn't seem to want to run sony xs-GS160 splits and the sub to its full potential there-for brisbane car sound suggested a MTX mono-block but still couldn't definately match this up with the sub.

May-be the problem is with the head-unit? Does it really matter if the rear RCA signal is split to run both channels of the amp?

[oRiCLe]

splitting the RCA's should work fine, and that amp should be enough power for the splits at least and the sub should work fine with that amount of power, what head unit it it? how have you got the settings on the amp?

Edited October 19, 2005 by oRiCLe

[djhatton]

like i said, i wouldn't be too concerned with "matching" your power ratings. that mtx monoblock you were recommended would be just fine

d

[PHT33]

splitting the RCA's should work fine, and that amp should be enough power for the splits at least and the sub should work fine with that amount of power, what head unit it it? how have you got the settings on the amp?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yeh, your right the amp powers the splits beautifully. head unit is a boss audio BAMP3000. just have the gain set half way on both channels and full pass to the splits, low pass to the sub. Does gain change the frequency of the sound or or change the like 'EQ?'

[PHT33]

like i said, i wouldn't be too concerned with "matching" your power ratings. that mtx monoblock you were recommended would be just fine

d

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Cool, 'caus it was only a couple of hundred dollars and if it goes that way can hook up the XS-V6935M's that are sitting around to the sony amp. Would this need a battery upgrade?

Cheers again

[oRiCLe]

the gain chages the voltage sensitivity of the input from the head unit, so by turning the volume of the head unit up as loud as you want it to go, without distortion while the amps gain is turned town to minimum, then turn the gain up on the amp slowly until it is at a desired listening setting, it will give the amp the maximum voltage to the amp...

[oRiCLe]

Just an update. If you are splitting the rear RCA between the sub and the speakers, this will have a rather large effect, as you are basically halving the signal that it will recieve. Try changing nothing on the amp, removing the splitter and running the same volume on the hu, you will notice an increase in volume. Does the HU only have 1 RCA output? If it has 2, then run another set of RCAs back to get better performance.

[oRiCLe]

Cool, 'caus it was only a couple of hundred dollars and if it goes that way can hook up the XS-V6935M's that are sitting around to the sony amp. Would this need a battery upgrade?

Cheers again

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Biggles on this account, couldn't be bothered changing.

You shouldn't need a battery upgrade, as you are not running large amounts of power. If its all in and your headlights are dimming, etc then you'll have to look at those kinda upgrades, but normally you'll be fine.

XM-504Z is your amp. I'd say leave this to speaker duty and get a response monoblock for your sub. I say this because the $ per watt your paying can't really be beaten. Although matching your sub and amp isn't hugely important, there is still a reason they are rated. You will notice a 400wrms amp compared to 100wrms (which is close to what your giving it now). You will get more volume, clearer and drive the amp less which is better for it in the long run, and your giving the voil coils what they are after.

As for the RCA statement above, its true. Give it a try.

[oRiCLe]

double

Edited October 20, 2005 by oRiCLe

[djhatton]

forget all about power ratings on speakers/drivers. simple as that. like i've said before use them as a guide only.

amp power is a more critical spec and you can NEVER have too much power. don't worry about "frying" your speakers cos you have too big an amp as this is a rare thing (unless you're really careless). the more power you have, the greater the dynamic headroom and the further away you stave off the onset of clipping.

when it comes to setting your system up, remember that gain controls are NOT volume controls. they are sensetivity settings.

read this: CLICK

d

[PHT33]

Thank you both very much,

Have left the standard battery in and just put in a 40a fuse.

Yeah no the HU only has single pre-outs.

Thanks for the link, djhatton, that was an extremely interesting read and now fully understand what the gain's all about!

Just went and tuned up the sub and the splits accordingly, not to bad at all for now.

Will go and get a better HU in the near future and a monoblock amp as soon as funds prevail.

Thanks for all your time and help,

Chris.