Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, just signed up here today and i am currently in the search of a r32 gts-t, hoping to get a nice stock one. What r some of the first mods for max kws. Ive heard a 33 turbo and intercooler goes well on a 32 giving u the option of windin the boost up reasonably. Just keen to see ur ideas, btw what does a standard 32 turbo run down the quater? or 0-100 speed?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91453-first-mods-for-r32-gts-t/
Share on other sites

mates '92 gts-t:

Non standard fuel pump (type unknown - came with the car)

boost controller (14 psi)

3in turbo back exhaust

K&N filter (in the airbox, not a pod filter)

160 rwKw

Though to be fair, his boost gague was out, and it was running on 17psi. How the standard turbos stayed put, I'll never know.

Yes, they are real upgrades (and first on my list - when it Finally Gets Here), but they are all (relativley) easy to do.

I guess the fuel pump is too (my vote is inline booster pump), but I wouldn't be able to change the injectors without trepidation. Guess it depends on how mechanical you are (or how loaded your wallet is)

--ebola

most people say 14psi is pretty much putting it on the line.. yet others have had it run 14psi fine for long periods while others again have had the turbos let go at lower 12psi or such. i think 14psi is risking the turbo blow, but you might get lucky or unlucky and have it at that or let go on even lower psi..

what about injectors, pump, clutch, pod filter etc etc etc sky30???

190rwkw would struggle to let u run a 12, let alone at 117mph

i think ur in dream land

Yes had a POD filter.

Injectors, pump and clutch were all stock , AFR were statring to get lean at around 12.2:1 so the injectors were at the limit.

Yes it made 190rwkw, and yes it Ran a few 12.9 seconds passes.

Why is that so hard to beleive???

190kw will get you in to the high 12's with a nice 60ft and nice shifting. :P

The R33's can do it, so why not the R32's with slightly less weight and a lower diff ratio.

Alot has to do with the driver, Sky30 being a country boy... hrmm it can't be that then... hehe :D

Edited by Cubes

yeah I dont question the 12.9 but 117mph? my r33 does 13.3@113mph with a g-tech it messures your top speed at the end of the quarter at the race track it is measured differently and gives you a lower mph reading than your top speed.

cheers

Edited by Munna

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Please do not connect it to your manifold. If you do, as GTS suggested please record the lot in 4K with good mics attached.   On the factory Skyline, there's a upside down pipe that allows it to breathe, looks like this   
    • For me I'd need some serious justification for why it has blown out.  Have you questioned him on it?  To be honest if you didn't question him right from the get-go on the first invoice that was already way over the initial quote and then you've (presumably) then paid another $1375 on top of the first invoice, then you're pushing shit uphill to get a favourable result now... It was years ago I last got an engineer out but it was around $450-$550 per visit.  That was just to inspect each progress point he gave me for the project.  Is he just doing progress inspections or is he providing engineering diagrams, technical assistance, etc??  If he's not, he's a filthy rip off merchant.  If the $3100 is the final sign off then you need to cop it on the chin, pay it and move on.  If it's not, piss him off and get a new one.  Not many Jeeps I'd value at $10K full stop let alone just engineering fees on a written off, half actual value WOVR Jeep....
    • Oh, yes. If you connected it to the manifold your first drive would be very eventful. Very shit. Very interesting. Perhaps take a video if you feel the need to see. Terminating the breather at the top of the bellhousing is normal/stock. Some gearbox lubes (hello Redline Shockproof) like to foam up a bit and require the breather to be extended up higher, so you don't get spots of smurf jizz staining the floor under your car. Mine is thus right up behind the head. Make sure you fit a u-bend at the top so it points back downward so that dirt and schmutz has a harder time getting into it.
    • Cheers for the replies. So i don't connect it to the manifold I just run the hose high up on the firewall?
    • It doesn't really answer your question...but is the head unit full android or just android auto, are you happy with how quickly it boots and responds, and do you have a link?  If we can identify good Android alternatives it will really help people stuck with Japanese screens. Did it have a separate reverse camera input so you would replace the factory one, or are you just going without now...that would be a pretty big steps back. And finally, do you have a picture of the "wire" that you can't plug in? Most likely it is some sort of aerial that is not too important eg japanese traffic or am radio or something if you haven't noticed a functionality issue
×
×
  • Create New...