Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

iv been reading through alot of posts about the HKS 2530...

im building my car for drift so i want a responsive turbo..

is this turbo 2 small? if so what do u recomend?

what do u think about the gt28rs? will this bult up and is it any better?

also does the hks turbo bult up? manifold and 2 the dumps?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91481-hks-2530-bigger-what-will-i-need/
Share on other sites

I had a cefiro with RB20 and i used to drift it quite a bit. It had 200rwkw with a highflowed RB25 turbo and close to factory boost response. it wont matter if you have a bit of lag as long as the power delivery is nice and smooth not kick you in the ass when boost comes on.

Also i would have liked about 10% more power than i had so if you can get that with a 2530 go with it. after all 220rwkw is quite a lot of power in an r32.

yep if it was me and for drifting i would go for the 2530.

just my 2c worth ;)

The gtrs can make around 250 rwkw on a RB25. it is officaly rated at around 350hp on this chart I have but it obviously makes more!

The 2535 is defineately not a waste of time they are awesome! They will also be cheaper than a GT-RS as they are an older model

I would love a GT-RS for my car but I will probably end up with a 2530 or 2535 just due to the value for money offered by them!

Edited by Bunta

2530 will bolt straight up providing you get the right flange (T3?)

I have spoken to many people about this and they say that a 2530 is about the best turbo for an RB20 for drift, it has phenomenal midrange... I would like to fit one to mine, I just need the cashola..

Use the search function for lots of previous threads.

Go to turbobygarrrett.com for their specs, and try also hksusa, or hks japan.

The CHRA for 2530 and GT28RS is very similar (minor spec update for the newer DiscoPotato compressor wheel), but only the HKS product has a T3 inlet / 6 bolt outlet turbine housing for straight bolt-up to RB series.

If you've got an SR, then Garrett can be very helpful.

Try surfing this board a little for lots of comments/experiences.

that site dont work?? i think ill do the 2530! so this bolts to the manifold and the dump? and i need to buy 1 for a T3 flange? any 1 know sites with imported performance parts i can look at? new and used? thanks!

Go the 2530, it's an excellent turbo, will bolt in as a straight turbo replacement (maybe some minor oil/water line mods). I hae seen this turbo pump out 267rwkw on an R33 GTS-t, or you could go the hi-flow route and get an r33 turbo highflowed, both will have the same response, alternatly you could even contact garret and see if they will make you a t3 flanged gt28rs that'll bolt up. All turbo's should make around 220rwkw wich is enough for drift and they have a good power band, the better you set up the chassis the less power you will need, to a point. Try searching the for sale section, there's a 2530 going in there at the moment or post up in the wanted to buy section for what you want, failing that try contacting one of the site sponsors, they'll have what you need most likely.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...