Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Just wanted to know if any of you guys have experience with, or knowledge of importing a car that is not eligible under SEVS but for race/rally use only. I understand the a current CAMS license is required - but what type? is a L2S license enough?

And will DOTARS let these cars be brought in just for weekend warrior track day type use or is it only for serious competition in a recognised racing class?

Any info on the legality of driving to & from race events would be appreciated also.

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91499-import-approval-for-motorsport/
Share on other sites

you will need a PC or NC or better licence. you best bet is to import the car as a rally car, then you will be able to gain some restricted rego. this will enable you to drive to and from the track providing you apply for a permit first.

I believe they also have a requirment that you have to have competed in a certain number of events in the preceding year.

Duncan on this forum may be able to give you more info.

  • 2 weeks later...

You need an L3 licence to get it, unless it's 1988 and older, and then you just wouldn't register it.

To get an L3 licence you need to have competed in a number of competitve motorsport activities over a certain ammount of time.

Its all on the CAMS site.

If you knew someone very well with one of these licences then they would be able to import the car for you? Well their not allowed to, but after they have done all the paperwork whats to stop them selling it straight away?

If you have C (track) license the import approval states never to be issued license plates, only can a R (Rally) be registered.

Now if the car is sold you need to sight their License being C or R, the rules have been looked into due to all the cars coming in and driven around every day.

http://www.dotars.gov.au/transreg/vsb/vsb_10.htm

Plus when you get import approval for a race import it will clearly say on the approval that its not eligible to be road registered ever. You can get a permit commonly called a rally permit in some states, which costs about $100 more than normal rego, that allows you to take the car to and from a workshop, or to events.

L2S isn't hard to get, just signing up to a club can get you that, you need a PC or NC minimum. That means log book maintenance, track time, physical tests etc. As said before, easiest thing to do is check the CAMS website.

Nigel, I dunno about Rally permit only being issed if the car is held by an R License owner. I got a rally permit for a car and all I had was an L2S. I think its something that's up to the discrepancy of the vehicle registrar in your state rather than commonwealth law.

Yer, but someone could buy a 'race' car on your behalf and when it gets here you can purchase that race car off that person and use it for racing yes? For instance if my uncle wanted a subaru race preped for racing he could get his mate to import it as he has the relevant licence. Nothing stoping people who are able to import cars for racing only then selling them to other people who want a race car?

its to f**king hot, so not sure if that makes sense.

I want to know why you need a CAMS licence at all? Seems to me the roundy roundy guys get all the laughs!

Why doesn't my ANDRA licence let me import a drag use only car?!?!?

DOTARS - "Stick it for your arse!!"

Adrian :angry:

because CAMS are the FIA body in Australia not ANDRA, and ANDRA have chosen not to work through the official body, they are like AAAA or any other club :D

You certainly can buy a car that was imported for race or rally use. In NSW if you want to register a rally car you must have L2S or higher.

A race car can never be registered. A rally car can get conditional rally rego in NSW

The only real problem with importing and selling race or rally only use car is that there are conditions you have to meet for the import, and there are a limit of 1 or 2 cars a year.

CAMS suck mighty huge balls - Everyone operates under an FIA mandate - shouldn't have to do shit to bring in a race use only car that will never see the road EVER.

I'm finding out how the big yank tanks that run SS/A come in. None of them have CAMS licences, I'm sure of it!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree that delayed payment probably isn't the most suitable solution. It seems a solid complete transaction would be best. As I wouldn't be using this sale as a line of credit that would typically earn interest, we can probably arrange a much cleaner single transaction deal. I can do $92.52 today. Would you prefer EFT, or Cash on Pickup?  😛
    • Oh man what a deal.... Funny enough (well not really) I sold a car to some old dude (buying for his Daughter) on a Saturday, He asked if she could take the car now and pay me the money on Monday as the bank wasn't open. Needless to say I told them to come back with the cash or get f**ked! Luckily the money seemed to magically appear in his pocket a few minutes later, so it all ended well (for me).
    • Gucci bags tend to hold their value well, so someone’s definitely going to get a nice find here.
    • @Ozdavroz Not going to get a better deal than that. Cash up front and ongoing payments. 🤑
    • I wouldn't even move it like gTSBoy is saying. I'd seriously do what Duncan is saying. Unplug the injectors, and unplug the fuel pump.  Pull the spark plugs out. Have a look in quickly with a bore scope if you want. At most, you can't spray a bit of oil into the bores so there is lubricant in there while you crank it. (Don't fill it, as it's only going to enter the exhaust, or spit at you out the spark plugs holes. Before cranking the engine on the starter, after a 5 year sit I'd probably prime the oil system manually. Easiest way to do so is to look at buying an oil filter relocation block, fit it to the engine. The pressure line going into the engine on this block you can then shove into some sort of oil pump, or put it into a bottle, with that hose going to the bottom. Fill bottle up with oil. Now seal the bottle and add a compressed air line to the top of the bottle. Feed compressed air in, about 20psi will be PLENTY. This will pump oil through the motor. Be aware, it also means it will drain back to the sump, so make sure you don't end up over filling the motor Now bolt the old oil setup back on (or fully install the remote filter system).   This way you've at least pushed fresh oil everywhere, then you're letting the motor crank to then do its own oiling. Then I'd tap the key to make sure it can start to crank, if the motor free bumps, then I'd just hit the key and let it crank. After letting it crank and seeing you can get real engine oil pressure, put new spark plugs in, reconnect the fuel system electrics, and send it.   Additionally, you can look to remove the fuel feed line to the rail, and divert it to a tank so you can get the bottom of the tank shit out, and just incase there's some crud sitting anywhere that gets passed the fuel filter (or is already ahead of it).   If fuel injection at the injectors ends up appearing to be a problem, you can dump the injectors into an ultrasonic cleaner for a quick flush clean out. Note this isn't as good as new injectors, or getting them pro cleaned and flowed    
×
×
  • Create New...