which would you rather have?

[predator]

I don't contemplate looking at the same interior again...

yeah, one thing that always turned me off a little if i was to ever get an R33 GTR. I'd just have to look at the same damn interior again and in a way the similarities would still be there. And with so many GTS-T out there "looking" like a GTR these days, from a distance who can tell these days? For that reason I'd probably have to go R32 GTR or something like that. Even if its older, least its not another damn R33

Would I take a GTR over a GTST with $10k thrown at it? Of course.

I'd take the GTS-T that has $10k thrown at it, that you can pick up for $21k..

[Parag0n]

Gtr.

[HoeTrain]

Millions of dollars and probably the same amount of man hours were put into designing and building one of the world’s best high performance cars. I don't think 10k plus a GTS-T, would even come close to a product a well refined as the ‘purposely built’ GTR. Even though I own a GTS-T with mods, driving a GTR is still a great privilege.

GTR hands down.

[Roy]

Hard to answer, but i suspect id take the worked GTST.

I have trouble owning std cars, at the very least id have to have wheels, exhaust, filter and clutch, not really stock anymore.

If i could have a RWD GTR (essentially the looks) that had the RB26DETT and weighed the same as the GTST then thats what id want. You can keep the 4wd/4ws etc, just give me a nicely sorted rwd chasis with some good useable power.

So id take MY GTST, its a built engine away from being the perfect car in my eyes. Only the old RB20 wont pack its bags and die

A question for GTR owners, how often when at the track or driving like a nutter, does the ATTESA actually kick in? Ive been in a few R33 GTRs and im yet to see the torque gauge flicker, unless they were trying to drift. I think the handling owes more to the susp design then the fact it sometimes is 4wd.

[justinfox]

GT-R!!!

Gotta love carpark shots huh?

[Roy]

Love the wheels, yeh looks of the GTR are so much more dramatic then the GTST

[TRUSTGTR]

Just think of when its raining or when you lose traction.

which car would you want to be in?

[KamikazeR33]

golf cart in the wet

GTR hands down guys

less fuel consumption for 0 - 100 in less than 5 secs with a nice 1/4 in under 13 secs

not bad for a stock car in my mind

[Duncan]

how about a GTST and a $10k GTR works for me

[OKBANANA]

I'd go the GT-R if i were you, hope you choose wisely

[floody]

You know, 10K really wouldn't stretch far modding a GTS-T.

-Engine - cams, rebuild (say with good pistons etc), balance etc, theres 2k or so gone already, or more..

-Wheels/tyres - say you got good japanese rims or simmons or something, with quality rubber, theres another 3k

-Clutch, LSD, RB25 box, say goodbye to another 3k or so...

we're up to 8..

You might squeak in some coilovers, and a seat, maybe a steering wheel.

Done your dough and still more to do it properly (don' forget little stuff like bushes, bearings....). No turbo upgrade in that either...

May as well get a GT-R.

Why did I go through the mods as if you were buying a 10k cheaper GTS-T and modding it?

Personally, I wouldn't ever buy a car with "10k" of someone elses mods, in that case I'd have a few k spare to fix their mistakes..

[funkymonkey]

if its a 1989 GTR vs a 1989 GTSt then I'd have to say go the GTR.

If its 1989 GTR vs post 1991 sept GTSt, go the GTSt

If its a post 1991 GTR and a post 1991 sept GTSt, go the GTR.

If its a V Spec 1 or 2, then go the GTR again.

This is based on my experience with reliability, and factory options in these cars.

At the end of the day, it depends if you wanna spend big and save small (GTR) or if you wanna spend small n save big (GTSt). Owning a car is far more than the power it makes or how fun it is to drive. A broken down GTR will cost more to fix than a broken down GTSt. Insurance for a GTR is a good $1000 more than a GTSt if you have a beginner's or bad rating. A GTSt you can take around as a daily driver n not worry bout it taking in too much fuel or attracting the wrong type of attention etc. No point gettin a GTR if its gonna spend its days in your garage locked up.

Personally if I can afford to maintain it for the duration of your purchase, buy a GTR. If you want a zippy Skyline that's fun to drive wth lesser hassles, then buy a GTSt.

If you've never driven a turbo before, buy a GTSt, the last thing we need is another Canadian statistic... which reminds me, you're in Canada, so the parameters that influence your decision is a bit different to those in Australia. However the state of the car and its running costs are still the same.

In fact it might be harder to come by spares in Canada for both RB20DET or RB26DETT cars since they never recieved any cars sporting these engines or drivetrains. R32's were sold locally in Aust and workshops are trained in servicing them. In which case I'd get a GTR, since there's more likely to be more 15 year old R32 GTR's coming into the country soon.

[StraightSix]

Wow someone revived this thread :birdie: (

As a matter of fact I have never had a turbo car before - actually never had a car with more than 135hp! - so between that, the fact that I might be doing a bit of drifting, and probably not wanting to put a lot of $$$ into the car, and GT-Rs being a bit more expensive than I thought they would be (you guys are driving the prices up - quit it! ) - in short, I've decided to go with the GTS-t. And I'll probably not be putting $10k into it after I buy it (yeah I know, famous last words); at the moment, I'm thinking wheels, coilovers, intake, exhaust, FMIC and a tune, so that's about $5k give or take, with some canny shopping possibly needed. Not too bad for something that will be able to embarrass 99% of imports and a high percentage of musclecars as well And of course if I get a serious need for speed later I will drop in an RB30DET and blow away everyone

Cheers

Jason

[Merli]

You know, 10K really wouldn't stretch far modding a GTS-T.

-Engine - cams, rebuild (say with good pistons etc), balance etc, theres 2k or so gone already, or more..

-Wheels/tyres - say you got good japanese rims or simmons or something, with quality rubber, theres another 3k

-Clutch, LSD, RB25 box, say goodbye to another 3k or so...

we're up to 8..

You might squeak in some coilovers, and a seat, maybe a steering wheel.

Done your dough and still more to do it properly (don' forget little stuff like bushes, bearings....). No turbo upgrade in that either...

Interesting post.

I'm not really sure where you get your prices from, but judging from those prices, I assume you have never actually modified an R32/R33 GTS-t.

"good pistons" alone will cost $2000. Let alone camshafts, and the labour cost involved in an engine rebuild. Try something more like $5-6000 for that in a good reputable workshop with RB engine experience.

"good japanese rims" alone will cost around $3500-$4000 if you imported them yourself and $5000 if you bought them from a local dealer.

"good quality rubber" will set you back $1500-$2000

"clutch, LSD, RB25 box" - $3000 sounds about right if you include labour to fit them all..

Realistically, for $10,000 here's what you'd get:

Air pod: $200

Turbo-back exhaust: $1000 (local custom exhaust)

Bleed Valve: $250 (for a good one)

Suspension: $2500 (Full Whiteline "Works" Kit)

Intercooler & Piping: $1500

Wheels & Tyres: anywhere from $2000 to $5000... Don't expect much change from the latter if you want those Volks or NISMO rims.

MAYBE PowerFC: $1500 (if you buy cheap wheels)

At the end of all that, you'll be putting out about 190-ish rwkw and have a very nicely setup car to drive, but don't expect $10000 to go very far when you're talking about modifying your R32/R33 GTS-t

[Merli]

I have trouble owning std cars, at the very least id have to have wheels, exhaust, filter and clutch, not really stock anymore.

A question for GTR owners, how often when at the track or driving like a nutter, does the ATTESA actually kick in? Ive been in a few R33 GTRs and im yet to see the torque gauge flicker, unless they were trying to drift. I think the handling owes more to the susp design then the fact it sometimes is 4wd.

hehehhe...

I agree with not really being able to leave the car stock... So I'd choose the GTR because I know I'd end up modifying it anyway

One thing though, I've only taken my GTR out onto the track once with stock suspension and road tyres and it wasn't the best experience... I was so used to high corners speeds of my last car with semi slicks and fully setup coilover suspension, stock suspension and road tyres just didn't cut it

But the question I ask you, is how do you know that the drivers of the GTRs you've been in were driving the car properly? I went for a few laps with Andrej Pavicevic in his GTR, and he was using ATESSA coming out of 80% of the corners at Eastern Creek. He also cut a 1:49 in that mostly stock (cam gears, powerfc, boost... stock suspension, road tyres, etc) GTR whilst cruising and chatting to me, so in the right hands, a GTR (even stock) is a fearsome machine.

[Roy]

hehehhe...

I agree with not really being able to leave the car stock... So I'd choose the GTR because I know I'd end up modifying it anyway

Be good to be in that position! ... and would love an R32/33 GTR but i cant afford to run a GTR and play with it at the track. Ill never be the fastest car but mine will often be the most enjoyed as it doesnt represent such a large investment of coin and doesnt have the protected species sign around the steering wheel

Fair call about the drivers, but if that GTR doign 1:49s had better rubber, with only a small increase in power, would the ATTESA be workign so hard?

Plus there is that evil voice inside me that likes to scare more recognised performance cars with the poorer cousin.

[skidmark]

could always put a gtr motor in the gts

[floody]

I see your point Merli.. I was only making the point of 10k will go nowhere. But that in mind, pistons don't have to be whiz bang forged ones, decent cast ones could be had a lot cheaper than that, and my estimates were mostly on second hand parts (coilovers, wheels, cams, sprockets, exhaust, seat, box, clutch, etc) and a lot of DIY labour - and even in that case my point is still there, as you say, 10k won;t go far.

[predator]

Hence what i was saying: the most intelligent way to do it is to get a car for low 20's, with that $10k thrown at it already. Thats if you want a car with a view to modifying it further. Even if you don't like the mods (and if it has been modified from japan generally they do it fairly intelligently anyway), you can take them off and sell them.. only costs a few $hundred at most to change over to what you do want.

By the time you've fitted from scratch an intercooler, EBC, coilovers, bodykit, some decent induction, some nice rims, exhaust, stereo and whatever else ($10k+ anyway) you're probably bored of it already and will want a GTR. With the amount of hours you spend, dealing with workshops, getting it all tuned, ironing out small problems, having it off the road, finding the best deal, researching what you want and whatever else, by then the enthusiasm goes.

[Gav]

In my books, leaving a GTR standard is a little like pulling wings off a fly - cruel and pointless.

As soon as you even remove the boost restrictor - most people just can't help themselves (then zaust, then pods, then boost controller.............). I fall into this catagory of course.