Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest a31rb25

just bought a steering bush and solid aliminium cradle bushes from Zenith Tuning (cheers Brad!) which will be installed in the next few days

was wondering if anybody would be interested in a brief do this/don't do this for future reference. pics will be included. will probably do it in a word-doco format as i don't know how to add mass pics to a post

any takers?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91603-cradle-bushes/
Share on other sites

Guest a31rb25

Daveo, what's so bad about them, i understand that they induce oversteer, but is it that bad that it effects daily commuting? as for adding to the stiffness of the ride, i'm not too concerned with that, the car is already awful on anything that has a few bumps, lol

regardless of how they effect the car, i'll post here and on Cefiroz.com a report on them and an article about installing them. hopefully with pics too

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91603-cradle-bushes/#findComment-1652609
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Yeah I got some alluminium inserts, what I am thinking about doing is keeping the bottom ones in and repacing the top part for some smaller cut pinapples. just finding with the LSD too much noise when it locks around slow tight corners such as three point turns. basically metal on metal no dampening. see how you go I am hoping to get mine in, in the next couple of months. Its been put off for a while and just got put off longer with a little acco today. (see pics and post)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91603-cradle-bushes/#findComment-1864680
Share on other sites

LoL one dont, dont use soild aluminium ones!  They are harsh, fun when you want it, but a pain the rest of the time.

Normal driving they are all good, yeh alloy ones make it harder than pinapples but lets face it the whole idea of them is to stop the harsher AXLE TRAMP and alow the wheels to spin with no issues.

GET EM INTO YA!!!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91603-cradle-bushes/#findComment-1869269
Share on other sites

Some people say the best of both worlds are PU on top and solid on the bottom.

Means it ends up tight but the NVH isn't transmitted to the car as much. I got my PU pineapples for $40 I think. Not that much in order to preserve some semblence of aural quality.

Good on ya for the article. If you want to just get the pics and send them to me seperately and just write the article in a PM or something I'll be happy to format it and put it up on cefiroz.. Good on ya!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91603-cradle-bushes/#findComment-1879611
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

My understanding is that there are 4 types of subframe bushes.

The first type are the actual bushes in the subframe itself which are pressed in. See attachment below.

When these factory items get old the subframe has movement, then people fit the alloy type of spacer bush as is being discussed here, which is the second type of bush.

Then there are solid ally bushes which are installed to crush the std fatory bushes, seen here : http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...246&hl=subframe

Then there are the pinapple urethane type which are used to tilt the subframe for drift or traction seen as posted here : http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/instructs/203a_KCA349.pdf

I reckon im going to fit the first type i talked about (the actual bush replacement) which is a hard job, but will be worth it, and then fit the urethane type to angle the subframe for traction.

I just see the alloy type as a quick replacement for fitting the actual subframe mounts.

NSB_66_Nissan_Silvia___Skyline_Subframe_Mounts_1_.pdf

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91603-cradle-bushes/#findComment-1905359
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is lower price now given apparently nobody wants these or needs them. It's 550 but if someone sees it on SAU and wants to make an offer, please do so.
    • LS is a good motor, but it hurts my soul when I see it in a RB. Guess it fixes the oiling issues lol.
    • I'm confused. Does this qualify as "Gregging" or are you somehow avoiding the Gregging?
    • More assembly going on, with all sorts of "bolt right on bro" scenarios going on here. Smartly, PTV clearance was checked. And I say smartly because it turns out that the intake was 0.009" from piston meeting valve. This is 0.23mm. This is very not okay. A fast meeting was facilitated between engine builder in Australia and engine builder in the USA which was actually incredibly helpful and constructive actually, various ideas thrown around to get around this issue including: 1) Retard the cam timing which would have brought the exhaust valve closer to meeting piston (it was 0.065") which was uncomfortably close to begin with, and change the cam profile making it 'laggier' 2) Much larger head gaskets which would reduce compression, but half the point of this was to increase compression. 3) New set of pistons ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$) 4) All of the above 5) Get ghetto The concept is you get sticky sandpaper and stick it back to a valve, slightly larger than the valve you/I'm using, like say from a LS3/rectangle port head. You now have a very super advanced flycutting tool to modify your pistons in your block. Then you install it in your head, and attach the other end of the head to a drill. Then you just replicate your valve smashing into a piston with your spinning drill.   This is the result. Repeat many times. It is strongly recommended you have some kind of fixed stop when doing this for extremely obvious reasons because if you press too hard then you're well into apocalyptic repercussion land. The minimum clearance on the intake valve is now 0.075" this is still in the "Too close to be really comfortable" and into "It should be fine" land. Supposedly in the real world the clearances will be slightly bigger. Guess this is what happens when people push envelopes for N/A engines instead of adding boost! Time to move onto the new, upgraded, higher ratio roller rockers from Yellaterra, all tapped and threaded with a stronger bolt for better stability. Very nice. Lets see how they fit. For f**ks sake. Time to bring the grinder out for these aftermarket, machined and CNC'd heads. Looks like the new, beefier rocker from YellaTerra has gone from Bolt on part to "Bolt on part". Well, lets see how this bolt on crank scraper and windage tray goes then, shall we? There actually is more clearance than they specify for this thing, but seeing it all move as you check it is terrifying when you see it all so very very very very nearly hit things. But after all, this is what the item is designed to do after all and actually did bolt on perfectly and have enough clearance to everything and some very clear and direct instructions. So +1 to Improved Racing I suppose. As above with the windage tray on. Photo of breaker bar wonkiness for added lols. Next up: Oil pump/front cover/water pump/sump and then it's time to actually install the heads, pushrods, head bolts, valve cover gaskets and such is all there and ready to go. (except the oil pump bolts which were previously longer for more clearance with the previously perfectly installed double row timing chain). There's definitely a sense that someone other than us has been here before and done everything perfectly, or at least considered it and came up with working solutions. Perhaps the previous cam was 6deg advanced to avoid PTV issues with the milled stock heads? In any case when I attempt to sell this stuff the buyers are going to be very directly informed.
    • my catch can is pretty easy to empty but it overflows due to the blowby/crank case pressure etc. max I have drained is ~600ml even with a ~2.3L capacity. So it is not just about having to drain it out its the mess it makes down the firewall and under the car and rear passenger tyre from the overflow oil being blasted by screamer + air in general. Ending up on the ground cleaning the oil up and having oil on your arms when everyone else can chill and watch the other sessions gets old fast
×
×
  • Create New...