Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On the turbo side of the block. How the f$$k do you get these things out, and what size is it? I was thinking drill and pull, unless there is a better way, preferably the one where I dont have to pull half the f^%king engine bay apart to fit a drill in. R33 S2 if that makes any difference.

Thanks heaps for any help guys

This one, just above the engine mount -

PA190016Small.jpg

Edited by jezzerrr
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91738-replacement-of-leaking-welch-plug/
Share on other sites

If you are VERY careful. you can punch them on 1 side (ie off-centre) so they rotate in the hole, then grab them with pliers / vicegrips / etc and yank them out. I think they are about 32 mm, but if you take the old one in to a Repco store, they should have the right one (they are not a special Nissan-size plug).

My theory is that if one has gone, then the others can't be too far behind. Best to replace as many as practicable in the one job. The plugs are relatively cheap (much cheaper than labour costs).

I just pulled all of them off my block. Its on a stand though so alot easier (i fear for your sanity when you do the task!). Hit them off center so they spin, or if they do what a few of mine did and actually go into the block just get a nice grip with some combo pliers and yank the mofo's out.

Next question, how do they go back in? just tapped in?

get a socket of the approx size of the welsh plug (cant remember the one I used) but make SURE that it is a reasonably loose fit (the welsh plugs are designed to squash in, so if the socket is a tight fit good luck getting your socket out :() General rule of them is tap them in so its square, and in far enough for the chamfer of the hole (you'll know what I mean) to be on the EDGE of the plug.

A small demo below with awesome pain shop skills

post-22530-1129811029.jpg

Those small ones in the water passage just under the exhaust manifold are 22mm diameter, the rest are 30mm. Getting it out will be difficult with the manifold, etc in place. Pushing it in, rotating and levering out (as suggested) is the 'usual' way, but be careful as the passage behind is big enough for it to get 'lost'. An alternative is to drill a hole in the centre, screw in a reasonable size self-tapping screw and use that to lever on (but getting a drill in there is easier said than done)

Use a (smaller) socket to put the new one in as suggested, but you'll find a surprising amount of force is required given its small size. I use a thin smear of silicone around the outer rim of the new plug to help a little, plus it gives an extra seal, particularly if the bore in the block has been scored removing the old plug (it happens).

Of course, get brass replacements and its quite likely the rest if the plugs in the block will be corroded so consider replaceing as many as you can get to esp if you have to remove the manifold, etc.

fairly sure there is a proper sealant they recommend on welsh plugs.

cant think of what its called off the top of my head.

i say just wack it off centre and twist it out, if you hit it square on, it can push into the water gallery on some of them and cause more trouble getting it out.

only my thoughts though.

everyone uses a slightly different method im sure.

I have one left on my block. The one straight down the middle of the thermostat housing. A real little one. I fear this one will push in and be EXTREMELY difficult to get out. As some times welsh plugs dont spin they just push in no matter how you hit them.

What blind_elk and scribble said.It needs to be spun off center.Tapped from the side.

When putting them back in you can find a socket about the size of the inner width of the welch plugs cupped center and tap it in slowly and evenly i also used lock tight arround the edges of the welch plugs.

Make sure that the area you are tapping them back into is dry and free of forign matter.:rolleyes:

This all sounds really hard to do with the motor in the car.

I replaced a plug on the front of the head it was pretty straightforward while everything was still in.

But what about the plugs on the side and esp the rear? Do they normally get done with the motor in the car by a really patient mechanic?

Lol on the car i did it on it was on the exhaust side and alls that needed removing was the manifold and exhaust pipes.Which gave access to the affected welch plug.But we decided to replace the rest while we were at it.Peace of mind and the fact that if 1 was gone then the others wernt far behind.

  • 2 years later...

You can freeze them beforehand to shrink them down a little. This way you can get them in easy and make sure that there sitting nicely before it expands to an interference fit. Similar to valve stem guides

Doctor30 try blocking off the rest of the cooling passage and vaccum it towards the opening, otherwise force some compressed air in there or maybe a magenetic part grabber (not sure what material the stock ones are made of). If your game stick your finger in there crank the motor and try and grab it whilst it wooshes past :P fun fun fun (put the water back in of course) Might even float to the opening?

Dont you just hate it when things never go right? especially when it seems easy or so simple... ahh life!

if a welch/welsh plug goes in the side of the block (turbo side down the bottom behind the engine mount ) and you can't get it out, where will it go?

Ouuch, condolences, that’s gota be one of the most f_uck things. I’m not sure on the design of the water jackets. Hopefully its not small enough to jam your thermostat closed :\

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...