Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It couldn't be simpler, take off the rear wheels one at a time and on the hub you will see a plugged up hole for the handbrake adjustment.

Unplug the hole and with a flat head screwdriver turn the small gear inside up or down depending on the way you need to adjust the handbrake.

I cant remember if up or down is tighter or not but you will soon find out by trial and error.

Make small adjustments and get the handbrake to about halfway between the current position and the desired position. Once youve done that, put that wheel back on and take the other wheel off and do the same to the other side until the handbrake now comes on at the desired height.

or you can do it the easy way and just using the in cabin adjustment. need a ratched, extension and 10mm socket. simply lift the handbrake up half way, stick the socket in the gap and tighten to tighten and loosen to loosen if you know what i mean.

pretty much every car i've look at regardless of drum, or calliper handrake have an adjuster nut under the handbrake handle. i would say with a 10mm socket, extension and ratchet you could do it in about 3 minutes.

pretty much every car i've look at regardless of drum, or calliper handrake have an adjuster nut under the handbrake handle. i would say with a 10mm socket, extension and ratchet you could do it in about 3 minutes.

i thought this method was only for "fine" tuning and to take up the slack after you did the rear wheel business...

hmm learn something new everyday

they have both.

if the handbrake isn't tight enough because the shoes are worn, you need to use the adjuster on the drum brake. I don't think sklyine rear brakes have a self adjuster mechanism -- which cars with rear drum brakes have - so i think this is why u have to manually adjust them.

If it's just the cable has stretched abit and you want less clicks, you can probably get away with the incabin adjustment.

It's best to do it at the wheel if its seriously out of whack and do the in-cabin adjustment only if its a minor thing.

Sometimes you might have to do both especially if you've frigged around with the wheels on and off enough for one day you can finish the job off with the adjuster inside.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • In all the track days I've done over the past few months I've only had 1 issue with braking and thats with my current EBC pads (can't remember the colour, but they're not a track pad). I don't *think* I have had issues with brake fluid getting too hot, my understanding is that when that happens you will have quite noticeable brake loss - which I haven't had.  I'm using just regular ol' Penrite Super DOT4 fluid. I use this fluid in everything and my cars always seem to stop so I see no reason to change, except ... for the 335i. I need to do a fluid flush and was thinking about my fluid of choice and wondering if I should consider using something more high temp? Its not a super fast car by any standards but I'd hate to do a flush and then find myself with no brakes when I get. to Wakefield.  I guess, my question can be summed up as "How fast do you need to be driving to need higher temp brake fluid?"  I remember high temp fluid was considered a must have back in the day when I had my GTR. 
    • For anyone that comes here looking for answers on what can go wrong with gts-4 to rb25detneo swap. The Gloria's awd sump is different and does not fit. The rb25neo from stagea are exactly the same sump bolt pattern and axel alignment. Castings numbers are different on Gloria's blocks and oilpans if they need to be identified.
    • I have information on this for anyone that comes looking again. https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18gsbFaYTU/ The rb25det neo from the stagea has the same sumo as rb26 and r32 gts4 (and other awd models). The sump that has caused so many problems during swaps are from the awd neo Gloria's. The casting numbers on the block and oil pans are different so this may help identify if you can't confirm where the motor came from
    • Not feasible to fix the boot lid you had? Damage looked minor/hard to even see :p Source: Drove into something recently and you should be happy you didn't!
    • Another new used boot arrived at the painters, it was sent back as there was nearly as much damage as the original one I want to replace  Finding a clean used boot lid is proving problematic, and I'm not keen on dropping $1500 on a new one from Mazda Sigh....
×
×
  • Create New...