Car Having Trouble When Cold Getting Past 2 Grand

[Taipan]

Hello I have a problem and its really annoying my R32 GTST when cold struggles to get to and past 2000RPM for about 5 min. Like after the car has been sitting for about 5 hours it does this. It is alright in the morning cos I can start it and let it sit for 5 but in the arvo after I have finished school it really pisses me off cos I just wana get out of there. Does anyone kno how I can fix this problem. Any help much appreciated.

Cheers Adrian

[SC300ZX]

I think maybe it's just that your car is still cold. It's bad to go fast or anything if the car is not warmed up anyways, so just take it easy.

[Miller the hoon]

Your oil has a lot to do with it see your mech

you might just need thiner oil

[Taipan]

yeh i kno it has to do with it being cold but if u put your foot flat on the throttle it should b able to get past 2 grand in under 10 seconds

[RANDY]

Ouch! Don't do that when it's cold!

School? =-o

[Taipan]

dont do wat when it is cold take it past 2 thousand revs :S i mean maybe around 5000 when the turbo starts to make full bost but 2000 is nothin. yeh school i am still at school last year only like 10 school days left cant wait till i finish

[DLuded]

full boost at 5000rpms? u sure

also wait till the car is warm before driving hard

[Taipan]

OMG I am not a stupid f**k I know you shouldn't drive ya car hard when it is cold and the oil hasn't been spread through out the engine properly and what not that is not the point I am getting at. See can u imagine getting in ya car and driving off and having people up ya ass because your car can not go any faster well that is my problem when cold my car will not go past 2 grand for this reason I don't drive my car when it is cold at all anymore I have to wait at least 4 min around 3 if I am sitting in the car holding it at about 1.5-2 grand. This is not a problem in the morning because I just set the turbo timer to 5 min. But like I said after school I just wana get the hell out of there.

P.S has anyone else had this problem if so how did u fix it.

[The Dan]

For god's sake, can people stop just posting crappy guesses all the time.

Change your coolant temperature sensor or have it tested. It alters timing and fuel for the initial warm up. If you have a consult you can trick the computer into thinking it is already warm and the problem goes away.

[madbung]

For god's sake, can people stop just posting crappy guesses all the time.

Change your coolant temperature sensor or have it tested. It alters timing and fuel for the initial warm up. If you have a consult you can trick the computer into thinking it is already warm and the problem goes away.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

So you're saying the ecu is retarding the timing and fuel mix because of a faulty temp sensor? I'd have assumed that would govern auto choke and may make it stick on or off but shouldnt stop the car reving over 2k(might go disconnect mine and see what happens ey)..

what does the car do @ 2k? revs bounce around like a limiter? or does it die and flutter like a cold engine with no choke would? also what cold/choke idle speed is it running @?

Does the problem go away the same time the choke switches off?

Mmm the more I analyze it the more I tend to agree...check temp sensor

[Taipan]

Hey cheers for the advice i will check the temp sensor. The car at 2k just like dies and flutters like a cold engine would wif no choke. The Choke idle speed is about 1100 revs also when i start it cold it just dies unless i give it a bit of throttle.

Cheers, Adrian

[The Dan]

These cars don't have a choke. It's an EFI engine.

The coolant temp sensor richens fuel mixtures and advances timing and also increases the AAC value to increase idle.

It will drive like it is totally doey and if you go past a certain throttle position it will just kick you in the arse and take off. Usually by about 2500. It doesn't always mean that it is a faulty sensor either. Do you have an aftermarket pump or regulator? Have you cleaned your AFM lately? It can cause some similar symptoms.

To test the coolant temp sensor you need an ohmmeter to test resistance between the two pins. not sure of the exact value but I will find out.

[The Dan]

2.5 K ohms when COLD

0.3 K ohms after WARM

Also test voltage to the sensor (plug terminals)

3v when COLD

1v when WARM

If these test ok, let me know and I'll proceed with further diagnostics.

[Nathan_G1]

Dude, you might wanna check to see if your airflow sensor isnt f**king up, you dont necessarily ave to be blowing out thick smoke as an indication. Go to your local dyno tuner perhaps get em to clean out the system and dyno tune it.

[madbung]

These cars don't have a choke. It's an EFI engine.

The coolant temp sensor richens fuel mixtures and advances timing and also increases the AAC value to increase idle.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

bwahahaha I love a good contridiction

Dont be mistaken.. yes it is an efi car no it doesnt have a carb or old choke/manual butterfly setup

But f me if by the ecu monitoring the coolant temp sensor then adjusting the fuel mixtures, timing and also increasing the AAC value to increase idle doesnt in super dooper high tech terms = choke on an efi car

My question was more related to whether the car will infact rev over 2000rpm?

Is it stalling out or is it infact being governed by the ecu because of a faulty temp sensor to a rev limit of 2000rpm as suggested?

The idea the ecu is enforcing a rev limit of 2000rpm until the car reaches operating temp..this being caused from a faulty temp sensor while it still appears to be operating as designed ie: 1100 rpm when cold> 650rpm when warm seems vague to me, never new it had this capability..

Anyway goodluck

Oh out of interest can you set a rev limit as well as time duration on your turbo timer?

[Taipan]

hey cheers once again for all the help will be doin some tests and try find the problem tomorrow after work. i am pretty sure it will be t sencor.

Chers, ADrain

[The Dan]

bwahahaha I love a good contridiction

Dont be mistaken.. yes it is an efi car    no it doesnt have a carb or old choke/manual butterfly setup 

But f me if by the ecu monitoring the coolant temp sensor then adjusting the fuel mixtures, timing and also increasing the AAC value to increase idle doesnt in super dooper high tech terms = choke on an efi car

My question was more related to whether the car will infact rev over 2000rpm?

Is it stalling out or is it infact being governed by the ecu because of a faulty temp sensor to a rev limit of 2000rpm as suggested?

The idea the ecu is enforcing a rev limit of 2000rpm until the car reaches operating temp..this being caused from a faulty temp sensor while it still appears to be operating as designed ie: 1100 rpm when cold> 650rpm when warm seems vague to me, never new it had this capability..

Anyway goodluck

Oh out of interest can you set a rev limit as well as time duration on your turbo timer?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Since when was it a contradiction? IT HAS NO CHOKE

The word "choke" refers to its method of "choking" air to the system thus creating a richer mixture helping with the warm up.

EFI cars use a cold start setting which, effectively, achieves the same outcome but by DIFFERENT methods. It INCREASES timing - a choke does not do that. It INCREASES the feed of air into the system - a choke does the total opposite.

So can you call an apple an orange?

....I didn't think so

On a second note, have you actually offered a solution to the problem or are you just pissing in the wind like most others?

I have offered a testing solution with values - if it tests ok then we will move on to the next likely problem, until then - go and read a book!

Edited October 22, 2005 by 3LIT3 FORS3

[madbung]

Pedantic or contrary?? which do you prefer?

On a second note, have you actually offered a solution to the problem or are you just pissing in the wind like most others?

I have offered a testing solution with values - if it tests ok then we will move on to the next likely problem, until then - go and read a book!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

In answer to this no.......if the guy with the problem would actually answer whether the car is in fact stalling out or being electronically governed as suggested I would happly give a suggestion or 2..

until then i'll re-iterate...The idea the ecu is enforcing a rev limit of 2000rpm until the car reaches operating temp..this being caused from a faulty temp sensor while it still appears to be operating as designed ie: 1100 rpm when cold> 650rpm when warm seems vague to me, never new it had this capability..

If it were my car i'd start by looking @ the aac valve but hey im no 3|173 45I<1|\| so wadda I know eh?

Until then i'll continue to read a book. may I suggest for yourself maybe try taking a deep breath, count to 10 or maybe just stfu and eat a sandwich or something.. :lol: wah!!

Edited October 24, 2005 by madbung

[The Dan]

until then i'll re-iterate...The idea the ecu is enforcing a rev limit of 2000rpm until the car reaches operating temp..this being caused from a faulty temp sensor while it still appears to be operating as designed ie: 1100 rpm when cold> 650rpm when warm seems vague to me, never new it had this capability..

The Coolant Temp Sensor effects more than just idle you twit. I thought I explained that earlier. When you understand BASIC principles, then you can come back and offer some assistance.

BTW don't tell me to stfu, I am here to help people with GENUINE answers, not just make stupid smilies to make fun of people and repeat what help I have already given, then go back and edit your posts to start arguments.

wah!!

[madbung]

Sadly I can't help your lack of comprehension..

Pls continue, feel free.. rage away..your paranoid sense of persecution is pretty amusing.

BTW don't tell me to stfu, I am here to help people with GENUINE answers, not just make stupid smilies to make fun of people and repeat what help I have already given, then go back and edit your posts to start arguments

seriously wtf?? I would have thought suggesting a more logical place to start diagnostics would be a welcome assistance. As I said before I don't think the ecu rev limits the car @ 2000rpm when you have a faulty temp sensor. Can't agree? Don't agree?..I don't care either way.

My post was in response to Taipan's prob, I don't think the temp sensor is the most logical place to start... you say it is..I say it isn't.

I understand you put a lot of thought into your diagnostics and are trying to help but seriously after reading one of your "helpful" posts yesterday I'm full of doubt about your capacity for anything other than inane comments like this one clicky

BTW I still think you should try taking a deep breath, count to 10 or maybe just stfu and eat a sandwich or something.. wah!!