Jump to content
SAU Community

Importing Companies


nelleh
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Im new to the forum just got myself a kick ass Skyline GT-T R34 through jlimports.com.au the guy there james helped me out heaps every step of the way and i save myself a lot of cash, looked at getting through autoworx but i found myself saving about $1500 through these guys.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a few japanese housemates, and they all tell me the same thing. 80K on a car that's 10 yrs old? Extremely Rare. They agreed if the car was based in tokyo, then it would be possible, but if the car is based in the suburbs and all, it's highly impossible, the odometer would definitely be tuned. And this is comming from pple who are from Japan. I agree that there are cars with low kms, but it's rare. Most of the logbooks and stuff are faked too from what they say. So it really depends on your luck if you get a true k's or a faked k's. There's a way to tell if it's real or faked, something to do with taking out the speedos i think.

Cheers! =)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<snip>

So it really depends on your luck if you get a true k's or a faked k's. There's a way to tell if it's real or faked, something to do with taking out the speedos i think.

Cheers! =)

If the kms are wound back say a small amount, there's probably no way to tell, but if they've been wound back a lot, it's of course easier. I've been told it's quite easy to tell based on the condition of the interior. Even if they have been wound back 10,000km, it's not that much anyway.

I was talking to a guy a few weeks ago that has been importing cars for about 6 years now (and imported over 250 cars), he was saying that things like the handbrake boot on average will start to split a little at around xx,xxxkm, the steering wheel will start to show wear at xx,xxxkm, series I R33 seat bolster shows wear at xx,xxxkm, series II R33's seats wear at around 15,000km less than series I, etc etc and continued on - to give about 6 or 7 examples of how you can tell whether the km's are roughly genuine or not.

As he said, "We can tell you whether we believe that the km's are genuine, but can never be 100% certain"

As long as when I import a car, I find that the conditon of the car matches the kms, I'll be happy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A workshop in Perth is just waiting for an inspection in the next 2 to 4 weeks and they will be able to comply R32's (1992 plus) and compliance should be priced well but a lot more work goes into a car then the 15 year rule.

Is there a differance between the 89/90/91 models and the 92 plus? besides the type-m editions etc?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just wondering for those people who get R33 compliance, what did you pay for? i know it;s around $4K plus GST, anyone find it cheaper?

it funny that people charge different price for a same model car...

i got quote for jza80 from downunder for 4.5k and my friend got it for 3.5k, may be r33 can be get it cheaper? they got 100 plates per year....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the kms are wound back say a small amount, there's probably no way to tell, but if they've been wound back a lot, it's of course easier. I've been told it's quite easy to tell based on the condition of the interior. Even if they have been wound back 10,000km, it's not that much anyway.

I was talking to a guy a few weeks ago that has been importing cars for about 6 years now (and imported over 250 cars), he was saying that things like the handbrake boot on average will start to split a little at around xx,xxxkm, the steering wheel will start to show wear at xx,xxxkm, series I R33 seat bolster shows wear at xx,xxxkm, series II R33's seats wear at around 15,000km less than series I, etc etc and continued on - to give about 6 or 7 examples of how you can tell whether the km's are roughly genuine or not.

As he said, "We can tell you whether we believe that the km's are genuine, but can never be 100% certain"

As long as when I import a car, I find that the conditon of the car matches the kms, I'll be happy.

This is exactly what the guy at autoworx told me. I reckon the handbrake boot is a pretty good indicator, I noticed once at another prominent dealership that all their Skylines had the handbrake boots removed. The rubber on the pedals is another good indicator and also look for the timing belt service sticker.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im new to the forum just got myself a kick ass Skyline GT-T R34 through jlimports.com.au the guy there james helped me out heaps every step of the  way and i save myself a lot of cash, looked at getting through autoworx but i found myself saving about $1500 through these guys.

JL Imports have only been a company since April this year so not exactly a company that has been around a while and I would love to have the choice of 100,000 to 150,000 vehicles in a week when I am looking for cars.

"With our service we can provide you access to 100 - 150,000 vehicles available each week at auctions all over Japan."

More "Brokers" popping now then ever and how could you save $1,500 as you could only say that if you were quoted on the same car and why was their $1,500 difference.

Who complyied your car and what did they charge.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

It's been a while since anyone posted on this thread, but I thought I'd let you guys know that I've just picked up a car at yesterdays auction... 1996 GTS-t Series 2, 2Dr Manual, grade 4.5... with 20,960 kms. Not one blemish on the entire body (not one single mark shown on the auction sheet), Grade B interior, Aftermarket exhaust, clutch, adjustable suspension. Should have it on the road for just over $22K

So to those people who said that you cant get a car with low kms, this is proof that you can... if you are patient. This car took 5 weeks to find which was actually quicker than I expected.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I initially had a requirement of under 50,000km so when I managed to get this I was extremely pleased, especially when it's a grade 4.5

To nelleh and everyone else - Good luck in your searching. You WILL find exactly what you want if you're prepared to wait.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That’s a great deal and I would jump on it if you were closer. Melbourne is a bit of a hike for me though unfortunately 
    • I wonder if there is much to tell without knowing where the bolts where bought from. If it comes from Amazon or similar all bets are off. Can't trust them. And I fear not everybody knows that. Wasn't it @TurboTapin who ended up with the fake fuel lines recently? The submersible ones which very much weren't submersible at all. It kind of applies to everything nowadays. Doesn't matter if it's hardware or electronics. The fancy camera might have internals swapped out for cheap knockoffs. The hard drive will report a certain size but not actually be able to write it all. Shit like that. A bit depressing but the reality is you really have to be weary of where and how you buy stuff
    • My guess is, cheap rods, came from a site selling lots of cheap things, and likely a lot of knock off stuff.   I get doing a cheap build, but I don't get doing a huge dollar build, and then skimping on something even like the rods, and likely the bolts to go with it, especially if heaps of stuff had to be fabricated!
    • Today myself and a mate tracked a fuel pump issue down to this amazing piece of workmanship in the fuel cradle loom. Covered by conduit and electrical tape. so now we should be moving onto the first fire once this is corrected. 🤞🤔
    • 1000% percent the looks just aren't visible, I was shocked when i found out the the only thing holding the OEM diff ( rear side ) is one stud was can easily crack when trying to launch the car or really beating on it, hence why this brace connects to the subframe/control arms and even includes a fancy jackpoint, With the forced induction route, I would have quickly launched the diff out the back of the car without this upgrade. The Z1 and GK tech don't offer the same "cool" look so to speak.
×
×
  • Create New...