Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Had my PFC tuned yesterday by CRD in Sydney and am very happy with the job they did and the end results. made 194RWKW.

My current mods are,

Pod filter

Full 3 inch exhaust and hi flow cat

boost set to about 13psi

Hybrid FMIC

Ex cam gear

PFC

Now, what to do to break 200 mark???

post-3430-1129866939.jpg

post-3430-1129867009.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91913-pfc-tune/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Use photoshop :(

Seriously dude i wouldn't worry about the figure, 6rwkw won't make that much difference. If your happy with how the car drives/pulls then be happy, don't worry about numbers.

If you want more power, time for a new turbo, something like a HKS 2535.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91913-pfc-tune/#findComment-1657379
Share on other sites

do u have a graph with AFR's?

what are they like?

are you planning on running 13psi all the time?

I was not given the AFR chart, I should call them, do u think they will have them saved in a database?

I may drop the boost back to 11-12psi just to be safe.

I also had compression test done all cylinders were 165-170psi. not too bad at all.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91913-pfc-tune/#findComment-1657567
Share on other sites

I was not given the AFR chart,  I should call them, do u think they will have them saved in a database?

I may drop the boost back to 11-12psi just to be safe.

Yeah, most tuners save it and can simply recall it in a matter of seconds

I'd be dropping the boost back a couple psi :(

Ceramic wheels are your enemy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91913-pfc-tune/#findComment-1657593
Share on other sites

good figure, how does it drive on the street? thats all that matters really

the 194rwkw powerfc will drive heaps better than the 201rwkw safc tune

looks like boost tapers off a little, what dump / front pipe combo do you have? all in all looks good.

are you happy with how it runs? now its time to see how the fuel economy is :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91913-pfc-tune/#findComment-1657848
Share on other sites

good figure, how does it drive on the street? thats all that matters really

the 194rwkw powerfc will drive heaps better than the 201rwkw safc tune

looks like boost tapers off a little, what dump / front pipe combo do you have? all in all looks good.

are you happy with how it runs? now its time to see how the fuel economy is :(

CRD pointed out the boost drop off and believe the wastegate spring may be worn and leaking pressure a bit. Not too concerned about this atm.

I just have the 3 inch dump pipe from flyn, not the split dump with seperate exhaust for the wastegate.

Drives very well, in second gear giving it a bootfull from just putting along it will break traction anywhere from 60 to 80kph easily now, although off boost there is no difference (that i can notice). To be honest i was expecting a bit of a power gain while just under normal acceleration.

Anyone know if you should get power gains under light load?

I will see how economy goes in a few weeks, at the moment i am enjoying the acceleration too much.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91913-pfc-tune/#findComment-1658005
Share on other sites

Yeah, most tuners save it and can simply recall it in a matter of seconds

I'd be dropping the boost back a couple psi  :(

Ceramic wheels are your enemy

Already have, i am getting bad spiking from my boost controller causing massive amounts of knock. The spiking did not show up on the dyno cause they start the acceleration before the turbo has spooled up giving the bleed valve more time to adjust to the pressure changes.

The spiking is only happeneing when i put my foot down when the turbo is spooled up, so anywhere above 3000rpm.

I have dropped it back to 10 for now. sure can notice the drop in power. Knock is good now, cant make it go over 25, before i had a spike of 127 on the knock scale. Very bad i think.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91913-pfc-tune/#findComment-1658039
Share on other sites

I agree..

Post up the AFR graph when you get it, im interested to see how they are :P

And with the boost, i would not expect the stock turbo to hold 13psi all the way to the redline, just as the graph shows.

Also with the lack of extra acceleration off boost, they probably did a full throttle tune, with not much work on the rest of the map, were u there when they tuned it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91913-pfc-tune/#findComment-1658948
Share on other sites

The problem with having it tuned for say 13-14psi is that if you drop it back to 11-12psi chances are the tune is not going to be optimal as the tune isn't suited to that boost level.

If the tuner has done his job properly that shouldn't be the case. Boost is irrelevant, he is tuning to airflow as the primary load source, with rpm as the secondaary reference. Turn the boost down and the airflow decreases at the same rpm, which should be reflected in the mapping (ie; the load points used). If the tuner has mapped the load points correctly then no problems, power is maximised.

:P cheers :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91913-pfc-tune/#findComment-1659015
Share on other sites

If the tuner has done his job properly that shouldn't be the case.  Boost is irrelevant, he is tuning to airflow as the primary load source, with rpm as the secondaary reference.  Turn the boost down and the airflow decreases at the same rpm, which should be reflected in the mapping (ie; the load points used).  If the tuner has mapped the load points correctly then no problems, power is maximised.

:P cheers :(

I figured this is how it would work SK. Cheers for the clarification.

I am getting the AFR chart today, will post up then.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91913-pfc-tune/#findComment-1659029
Share on other sites

And with the boost, i would not expect the stock turbo to hold 13psi all the way to the redline, just as the graph shows.

were u there when they tuned it?

Is this just the stock turbo simply running out of puff?

Does anyone else have a similar drop in pressure at high rpm with stock turbo?

The car was on the dyno from 5pm till just after 9, so 4 hours. I was there for about 4 runs on the dyno from about 7.30.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91913-pfc-tune/#findComment-1659034
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
×
×
  • Create New...