Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Pretty much what i run Mitchee. Annoying somewhat isnt it. You hate the fact your so close to being booted for both cage and a parachute but glad as you get another crack at it :)

What sort of car and how much power?

Edited by ido09s

Yeah, only the one decent run, stuffed the launches on the other 2 runs I got. The car is impossible to get moving in 1st as it just wheel tramps, so launching in 2nd and riding the clutch out a little iv'e found prevents that. The 60' suffers but the mph is more what i'm after than anything. I'm currently making some changes to the car to help get it moving from a stop, and ultimately make it nicer to drive. :)

Its a full weight R34 GTT with about 500rwkw. With ~1/4 tank and me in it, its 1500kg.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks mate.

The engine is about 8 years old so I can't remember it InToo much detail but here goes.

Cv performance built in 2006

Stock stroke balanced crank

All forged internals

Mildly ported head with hks step 2 cams

T04z with .70 exhaust hsg

Ran pump fuel on 20 psi it's whole life but recently switched to e85 and 23psi which dropped it from 9.90 to 9.50 then backed up with 9.56.

Running 9" and slicks with a protrans c4.

Rotary Motorsport tunes it and Monro race cars did all the fab work.

There's a 42 page build thread on it dating back to 2006 on the r31skyline forum.

Cheers Joad.

Thanks mate.

The engine is about 8 years old so I can't remember it InToo much detail but here goes.

Cv performance built in 2006

Stock stroke balanced crank

All forged internals

Mildly ported head with hks step 2 cams

T04z with .70 exhaust hsg

Ran pump fuel on 20 psi it's whole life but recently switched to e85 and 23psi which dropped it from 9.90 to 9.50 then backed up with 9.56.

Running 9" and slicks with a protrans c4.

Rotary Motorsport tunes it and Monro race cars did all the fab work.

There's a 42 page build thread on it dating back to 2006 on the r31skyline forum.

Cheers Joad.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...