Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

where can i buy these and are they difficult to install ? i want a monster boost gauge with oil temp and a optimal shift indicator if these are available, like can you mix n match what ya have on them ? anyways im in melb where's the best palce to get them and installed if need be ? thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9199-oil-temp-and-boost-gauges-etc/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

boost will do... otherstuff is fairly cosmetic unless you're tuning individual parameters yourself.

Depends - i'm not a big fan of guages on the dash, even though they are easier to read sometiems. They draw attention from cops and the like. Another place you can consider is down on the centre console in or next to the ashtray.

Originally posted by DJ_L3ThAL

yeah i wanna do the EL too, where did u get it from and is it easy to install yourself ? whats involved etc ? im aq bit of a noob when it comes tro cars :)

got it from jetspeed but apparently its hard to get them now sum1 told me, and it took about 4 hrs to install.

My car came with a monstor tacho but I don’t wana take it out because they are worth so much. I bought a small auto meter boost gauge to go with it. The boost gauge is good but the tacho is just a waste of space and is really the ultimate toss item. There quite easy to install and the boost gauge is a very worth while addition even if it does cost about $150 with the mounting bracket :)

Originally posted by predator666

They draw attention from cops and the like.

i disagree... so long as its below the top of the steering wheel then its ok... i got pulled over for a RBT and talked to the copper for a little and he actually thought were i had mine was a good idea rather than puting it on the pilar which is more likely to get me in trouble

lol nah seriously

down calder park fair enough u dont need a shift light cause u know its one straiht road and no one pops out

but when ur on millers rd in altona 4 o clock in da morning.... draging some smart arse in a silvia turbo... u mite wanna keep ur eyes on da road

there for shift light is hand.. not the big monsta tacho.. **** that!!! thats to woggish even for me.... hmmm would look good tho hahah

all u need is a small little light some where so u dont hit that bloody limiter and loose time and get imbarresed by a pices of crap silver.. or r32 hahah sorry nik

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This would be a new pump with new gears. I'm just unclear on whether it's a good idea to run more oil pump flow if you don't actually need said flow. Oil level is set a minute or so after shutting off a warm engine so wouldn't the high RPM oil level in the sump end up lower all things equal? Plan is OEM clearances, main concern in my mind is whether the OEM pump can keep up with the flow requirements of any additional oil coolers.
    • Don't do what I did, use a 300000km old housing with billet gears. The old pump probably was clearanced with saw dust, Edward Lee's special engine treatment sauce and a good odo wind back. I had oil pressure issues, then replaces pump with new housing, new billet gears and 2x track day later binned a motor due to other oil related issues due to a previous engine builder. Long story short, buy a M2 or 3 or 4 N55/S55/S58 and enjoy life.
    • Yeah. "New pump" does not have to mean "massive pump".
    • Well, can you still get an OEM pump, and by the time you're buying a Nismo/N1 etc, just buy another aftermarket pump. It's better to have the pump able to flow more if its needed, than for your pressure to drop off. At any point in time, you're replacing the oil pump in a rebuild. Aftermarket pumps are likely going to be a better economical choice, and they don't have any negatives, even if they can flow more.   Also, when you're saying "replace the pump gears" are you meaning leave a 25+ year old housing in the engine with unknown wear, and just put new gears in? As that sounds silly to me, especially if you do have that minute amount of wear, that means your new pump gears now have a little bit more clearance beside them, which means, whelp, you may not get to build a lot of oil pressure or make a lot of flow.
    • Right, but if you replace the pump gears + put a spline or sine drive gear on the crank on a Nismo/OEM/N1/etc pump at that point do you really still want more flow/oil pressure? Let's say this is a the aforementioned "keep it simple" build, no more than ~400 kW at the crank.
×
×
  • Create New...