Fuel Pump Direct Feed Rewire.

[grim32]

Well i tried using the looms earth and still no good. Does anyone know where the standard fuel pump relay is for the R32.

Thanks

[Cubes]

Well thats quite strange as your only using a relay?!? :S

I remember the relay is in the boot inside the drivers side guard as if you follow the wiring thats where it goes. I think.

[grim32]

Well thats quite strange as your only using a relay?!? :S

I remember the relay is in the boot inside the drivers side guard as if you follow the wiring thats where it goes. I think.

Ok thanks Cubes, ill have a play with it and try and sort it out. God i hate these stupid problems.

[grim32]

The relay was under the rear boot trim on the drivers side, it is a green relay and plug.

Ive tried to wire this thing up every way possible with no success, it does work fine until you switch the car off then reds stay on but car stalls so there must be an issue with the turbo timer somewhere that is causing another problem.

Put the wires back to standard and the turbo timer works fine.

Ill have another play with it this arvo as i would like to get this fixed up before the tune on monday but if i cant get it sorted i guess ill leave the malpassi reg in it with the pump at 10.9 volts.

[Cubes]

Turbo timers are over rated anyway.

[grim32]

Turbo timers are over rated anyway.

Ha ha yeah but then my dash will look stupid with

A: A turbo timer that doesnt work, or

B: A spot where the turbo timer was glued on. lol.

I unplugged the factory relay and plugged wires in to connect it to a different relay and everything works sweet at 10.9 volts, then i tried joining the 2 blue wires together and use this for the trigger and connected a fused 12 gauge wire from the battery on the relay. Starts fine with 13.6 volts but at shutdown the timer will not keep the car running.

Does it really matter if it isnt getting positive from the same old place? Who would of thought one relay could cause so much trouble.

I think ive wired it up every way possible as well.

[tacker]

Not sure this is right, going by memory but the 30 and 85 are your coil and 86 and 87 your normally open contact and therfore the 12 volts fused should be on 86 and the fuel pump trigger should be on 30. I think that is correct but only going on memory

I just wired up a relay this afternoon and all was going fine untill i turned the car off, now the turbo timer will not keep the car running but the ignition stays on but the car just stops. If i put the wires back to standard its fine, i tried using another relay but get the same result.

Everything was wired up right

30. 12v battery fused

85. earth

86. fuel pump trigger

87. fuel pump

Any ideas on what could be going wrong?

Does anyone know where the factory pump relay is.

Thanks.

[grim32]

Not sure this is right, going by memory but the 30 and 85 are your coil and 86 and 87 your normally open contact and therfore the 12 volts fused should be on 86 and the fuel pump trigger should be on 30. I think that is correct but only going on memory

85 and 86 are the coil

Gave up on it anyway, have the pump running full voltage now so ill work something out with the timer later.

[Edge]

How many L/hour pump capacity do you need for 300rwkw?

Is a Nismo fuel pump by itself enough (its 4.1L/min I think), I'm going to use Nismo 740cc injectors.

Can someone tell me whether I still need to get a nismo fuel regulator?

Edited December 26, 2006 by Edge

[zebra]

ok i just read every post in this thread and im more confused than ever.....does someone have photos or a diagram showing what has been done.....i get that you run power cable from the +ve batt to the relay to the pump, and ground the pump to the chassis.....then how do i wire up the oem pump wiring to the relay? oem +ve to +ve on relay? then oem -ve to relay then -ve on relay to chassis or oem -ve straight to chassis.....hope this makes sense

Cheers

[RedDrifter]

I am in the process of upgradeing my injectors to GTR injectors and I think I will be doing the fuel pump wireing upgrade if I get time aswell this weekend, if not it will be next weekend.

I was actually thinking of just rewiring the whole system still retaining the voltage drop circuit (located in the boot.) for lower flow @ idle (basically just replaceing the thin wire from the fuse panel/relay/dropping circuit back.) I don't know how difficult it will be but I should be right.

Now the only thing is does anyone know where the original pump relay is located?

If it works out I'll take a few photos etc.

Oh yeah and I am using a boch 040 intanke pump.

Edited February 16, 2007 by RedDrifter

[Cubes]

Sounds like a good idea Reddrifter..

There's a couple of relays in the boot. Follow the wires and you'll find them. They are located in the rear guard so a little bit of a pain in the arse to get to.

[RedDrifter]

Sounds like a good idea Reddrifter..

There's a couple of relays in the boot. Follow the wires and you'll find them. They are located in the rear guard so a little bit of a pain in the arse to get to.

As in the right hand guard near the voltage req circuit box for the pump?

[Cubes]

Not completely sure. :S

I do know there's a couple of relays in the drivers rear guard that have wires entering/exiting from the fuel pump loom section. I'm unsure if the high/low switching occurs there or else where.

[RedDrifter]

Here is a wiring diagram for the RB20DET. It clearly shows the fuel pump setup.

Edited February 16, 2007 by RedDrifter

[666DAN]

I'm getting 12.7v priming and 13.1v Idle....my car always runs at 14.1-14.8v :S

What's the max operating voltage on the GTR pumps?

[Cubes]

The R33's from what I've seen don't suffer the same large volt drop as the R32's; their battery is in the boot so no doubt this does help some what..

14.8v if thats correct is overcharging a tad. Keep an eye on it.

[666DAN]

Yeah I've always thought the gauge was wrong and have never checked...nup gauge was right.

[RedDrifter]

OK I had a bit of a play this avo and I measured 12.25 volts at the positive wire of the pump, so My car isn't doing to bad.

In the rear drivers side guard is the fuel pump modulator and in the back near the boot release is the pumps relay.

Would I be loosing much from the Bosch 040 @ 12.25volts at idle rather than 13.8?

[MANWHORE]

oh yeah, you definitely will. Like lighting, the smallest drop in voltage sees big gains.

e.g. with lighting, having the headlights at 11volts, the brightness is almost half that if the voltage was 13.8volts.

However, bear in mind that yes, it will flow more if you do the wiring, but do you need it? e.g. if you have a big pump, you might not need to potential extra.

For my cars, i've never bothered to rewire it. The stock pump wouldn't be enough for me if I rewired it, and the aftermarket pump flows enough, so I don't find the need to wire it.