Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Has anyone done the re-wire on a Ceffy?

I've followed the first post and tried a few other variations with no luck... All I can do is get the fuel pump to run constantly off the battery not accessory/ignition (ie pump running whilst the car is off)???

Has anyone done the re-wire on a Ceffy?

I've followed the first post and tried a few other variations with no luck... All I can do is get the fuel pump to run constantly off the battery not accessory/ignition (ie pump running whilst the car is off)???

I didnt go quite to the extreme as the OP.

Mine just stopped working one day. No idea why. Pump relay and pump were both getting voltage, but nothing was working.

All i did was disconnect the stock 12v feed to te relay, then take the 12v feed from the 4ws Motor and connected that up instead seeing as the 4ws isnt used. . Tadaaa. Perfect running now. Uses the stock relay and earths. One wire to change.

  • 4 months later...

hey guys, im doing this mod atm, and ive been wondering wether this would work or not.

im running a dual stage boost controller off a switch in my dash. im wondering if i run the battery 12v feed to my relay, and then run a positive feed from my dual stage switch to make the relay switch on and off, and then tap the battery 12v feed from the relay into the std pump positive feed would this cause any issues?

doing it that way, i can still run the reduced voltage when im just cruising around the streets on low boost, and if i want to give it a boot full and switch over to high boost(low boost is only 10 psi so the pump will suffice without the extra volts) it will pump the extra voltage from the direct feed into my fuel pump to get the max out of it. this in theory should work, but what im worried about is the extra voltage running back up the line on the stock wiring to the stock relay and causing a problem. it would have been good to beable to shut off the stock pump wiring altogether, but the issue there is when the lines switch there will be a momontary lapse in power to the pump.

is it worth a try or should i just run it at max all the time?

Edited by OMY31T
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

hey guys, im doing this mod atm, and ive been wondering wether this would work or not.

im running a dual stage boost controller off a switch in my dash. im wondering if i run the battery 12v feed to my relay, and then run a positive feed from my dual stage switch to make the relay switch on and off, and then tap the battery 12v feed from the relay into the std pump positive feed would this cause any issues?

doing it that way, i can still run the reduced voltage when im just cruising around the streets on low boost, and if i want to give it a boot full and switch over to high boost(low boost is only 10 psi so the pump will suffice without the extra volts) it will pump the extra voltage from the direct feed into my fuel pump to get the max out of it. this in theory should work, but what im worried about is the extra voltage running back up the line on the stock wiring to the stock relay and causing a problem. it would have been good to beable to shut off the stock pump wiring altogether, but the issue there is when the lines switch there will be a momontary lapse in power to the pump.

is it worth a try or should i just run it at max all the time?

i guess u could try that if u really wanted to but whatever fuel the engine does not consume gets fed back into the tank anyways... id rather have more fuel then not enough when i "need" it...

  • 2 months later...

Did this mod yesturday, Have some photos and a diagram if anyones confused to show how I did mine, seems to have improved the car a bit

R33FuelPumpRe-wire.jpg

Relay mounted:

Wires spliced into pump wiring:

So you don't need to take the pump back out and replace that wiring also? I really don't want to do that if i don't need to

So you don't need to take the pump back out and replace that wiring also? I really don't want to do that if i don't need to

It would be better to re-do all the wiring, but I didnt want to pull the pump out and play around with the plug in the fuel tank cap etc so I just did it like this

The pump sounds louder so must be getting some extra voltage, no problems so far

It would be better to re-do all the wiring, but I didnt want to pull the pump out and play around with the plug in the fuel tank cap etc so I just did it like this

The pump sounds louder so must be getting some extra voltage, no problems so far

Cheers mate will do your way and if i have issues rewire as necessary. Not pushing the pump that hard (similar power to what you have

hi newbie here from UK

r32 gtr owner.

could someone tell me what do you do with the old fuel pump plug??

i realise i can either cut for 12v before the plug, or fit a male spade fitting inside the plug on the 12v side to trigger the relay.

what do you do with the plugs negative feed?? simply cover it up with tape?? or does this still need to go to ground also?? (so in total, 3 wires to ground, plug/relay/pump)

thanks

ps, anyone confirm the wire colours for the + and - on the plug on a r32 gtr

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

It would be better to re-do all the wiring, but I didnt want to pull the pump out and play around with the plug in the fuel tank cap etc so I just did it like this

The pump sounds louder so must be getting some extra voltage, no problems so far

Did you use the negative (gray) from the wiring loom as well or just the 12v blue?

Cheers

  • 3 weeks later...

Also my battery in the boot on the drivers side so all my new fuel pump cables are short in length, I'm running a walbro e85 400lph pump

What would be the best size cable to support this pump? 8gauge would be hugely overkill for such short distances?

i used 8g as i had few meters of spare cable, also make sure +ve and -ve are the same gauge, my one just plugs into the existing pin, wires inside the tank hasn't been touched

Also my battery in the boot on the drivers side so all my new fuel pump cables are short in length, I'm running a walbro e85 400lph pump
What would be the best size cable to support this pump? 8gauge would be hugely overkill for such short distances?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the info GTSBoy, legend. If there is no downside i'll likely just get the larger bosch units because why not... I remember hearing stories about people washing their bores with fitment of too large injectors way back when, which i guess has made me shy about it now. But happy to know it shouldn't be an issue. Ozdavroz, the little rb20 is a lot of fun- now that i have a little extra funds and time i am very glad to be tampering with the ol girl again, after so long. More RB20's on the road the better. Cheers, Rowdy
    • ...just a note of warning, you shouldn't drive it about with the TCU in limp mode with only 3rd gear available ~ apart from the fact you end up sheering the ATF at the torque converter interface, the high clutch in these isn't especially the strongest, particularly bolted to the RB25DE mill...which is likely a 4AX01 box with lighter duty high clutch (the RB25DET got the bigger high clutch)...be careful out there...
    • Hoping to do similar mods to my RB20 once I get it running and reliable again
    • As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.
    • Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
×
×
  • Create New...