Fuel Pump Direct Feed Rewire.

[Craved]

just had an issue with my fuel pumps on the weekend ... just lucky i founf this thread.

is there any issues with totally removing the fuel pump from the ECU?

was thinking of running a similar setup to whats been doing here, but the problem comes that i dont have any power coming to the fuel pump from the std wiring..

if i was to run a remote/trigger wire from the ign wires under the dash, would that cause any issues?

im running a 040 with the surge tank being fed by the std R33 gtst pump .. neither pumps are running now since the trigger wire for the ext. pumps relay was coming from the std wiring.

[Cubes]

Check relays..

I had a play today... I disconnected the internal fuel pump and primed only the external pump. The external pump with the internal disconnected made the EXACT same noise as it does on a hot day after the fuel warms.

Not knowing a lot about electric motors...... I wonder if the heat causes the internal pump to become very lazy and no longer becomes sufficient to feed the external bosch pump.

The internal pump is stuffed, with the rb20det anything about 10psi and it would lean out and rattle its head off.

Maybe its time for a new internal pump.

Not looking forward to pulling this sucker out.

Edited November 22, 2005 by Cubes

[Craved]

Check relays..

I had a play today... I disconnected the internal fuel pump and primed only the external pump. The external pump with the internal disconnected made the EXACT same noise as it does on a hot day after the fuel warms.

Not knowing a lot about electric motors...... I wonder if the heat causes the internal pump to become very lazy and no longer becomes sufficient to feed the external bosch pump.

The internal pump is stuffed, with the rb20det anything about 10psi and it would lean out and rattle its head off.

Maybe its time for a new internal pump.

Not looking forward to pulling this sucker out.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

i have mine bringing the return line into the surge tank .. so mine shouldn't run dry unless the feed pump dies for a couple of minutes.

have to try and find out which relay runs the internal pump in the R33's. i didn't have the cover for the relay/fuse box in the boot. so i couldn't check.

you could run a surge tank rather than having the internal pump feed direct to the external pump ... think thats how you have it setup

[Cubes]

No room for a surge tank at the moment, I need the room for the little boys pram.

[Craved]

No room for a surge tank at the moment, I need the room for the little boys pram.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

hehehehe fair enough...

we put a fuel surge tank ext. pump setup in the wheel well of a mates spritner... with a cover ofver the top he has more boot space ..

who needs a spare wheel anyway ???

or get the box type.. like the Greddy ones from advan. take up less room than the cylinder ones that are comon..

[benl1981]

Does anybody have a pic of the setup in the boot on an R33? Just wondering where to install the realy and where to tap into the existing wiring for the relay trigger.

A car horn relay is good enough is it? How much is that?

I have a 30A fuse and some 12 gauge cable setup for my amp - I will probably use this. My amp is out of the car at the moment..

I think it is 12 gauge - should be well and truly thick enough just looking at it.

Actually maybe its larger. The core is anout 3.5-4mm in diameter. It was pretty cheap but have a whole roll for other things awell

Edited November 22, 2005 by benl1981

[Tangles]

No room for a surge tank at the moment, I need the room for the little boys pram.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

CUBES! Thats easy fixed! Grab a nice neat STAGEA and join my family! 5 doors is much easier than 2. :lol:

Brendan

[Cubes]

I would indeed very much like a nice Stagea.

Once Uni is all over.

Edited November 22, 2005 by Cubes

[benl1981]

I got a 4 door R33 - there handy aswell _ shame the seats dont fold down though!!!

[Cubes]

4 Door would be nice.... If only..

[Oosh]

Wanna swap?

[Craved]

checked out my fuel pump today with a direct power feed from the battery . and she worked fine .. so looks like the standard relay for the fuel pump packed it in ..

already went and bought the new wiring for the setup so i'll install that tomorrow.

which wire did people use for the trigger wire? was thinking it would be best to run from an IGN wire but not sure where to tap it in .(havent really looked yet)

noticed in my mates rx7 that they had spade fuses that had a wire coming out the top of them. anyone know where i can get these. really handy in this instance since i could just replace the IGN fuse and tap the trigger into the wire that comes out of it.

[Cubes]

Craved,

IGN is no good as the trigger wire.. You need the pump to prime then turn off. Not keep running, it begins to make some strange noises after a while if you leave it running with the motor off.

So not a good thing.

Via the boot trace the + feed back from the fuel pump, chop and use that wire as the trigger.

[Cubes]

This is the fuse I ran inline, works nice with the 8GA cable.

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...eMax=&SUBCATID=

I've made sure I have a few spare fuses 'just' incase.

Edited November 23, 2005 by Cubes

[Craved]

hmm was waiting for someone to say that .. im running a couple of switches in there as well...

reason i was gonna run it direct was the relay's gone from the std power feed. so i didn't wanna have to replace that too.

will have a think about it... you know were i can get replacement relay for the std setup??

[Craved]

This is the fuse I ran inline, works nice with the 8GA cable.

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...eMax=&SUBCATID=

I've made sure I have a few spare fuses 'just' incase.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

im running a fuse setup from my old stereo system.

it has a 0 guage input that splits into 4 fused 4/8 guage outlets.. can also run 2 x 4 guage outputs that are un fused.

really neat little setup actually.. run ) guage to that .. run 4 guage un fused to the fuse/relay box in the boot. then fused lines to the fuel pumps and amp. makes it alot easier to wire it neatly.

[benl1981]

Ok - not sure if to start a new thread.

I have an R33 and just wondering about the wiring and which ones to use. There are in total 5 wires going to the pump.

a 2 pin plug and a 3 pin plug. The 2 pin plug has thicker wires so I'm thinking they are the positive and negative. Couldn't see the relay unless it is inbuilt down there.

I was going to get someone to hit the ignition because it only primes for a second but didn't get a chance.

All pins were at the chassis potential as when I toughed the multimeter to +ve on battery and the other to each pin it was 12.8volts at each.

[Craved]

hey ben .. the positive wire is the Blue wire on the 2 pin plug .. which is located as the closest wire to yourself when looking in the boot.

[benl1981]

And the white is the negative is it?

Thanks a lot!!

What are the other 3 wires then?

Is the best way to do it to cut the wires further back (outside the cover). Cut the blue there. Use te blue there as the trigger for the relay and use the 12v feed from the battery and relay and splice it back into the blue wire heaing to the pump.

The White wire just cut it around there and run straight to battery negative or chassis earth posts in the boot.

You still will get a little voltage loss but its over a shorter distance I guess. Does that blue wire run right from the front of the car etc?

Thanks

PS Is it worth doing this? If Im only going for around 200rwkw - cold it save probs when tuning?

Do R33s usually have low voltage at the pump?

Edited November 23, 2005 by benl1981

[Craved]

well im hoping to find a way to completely remove the std socket for the pump ...

Cubes - how did you attach the 8GA to the std fuel pump plugs?

the 3 other wires is for your fuel level sensor ..

200rwkw the std pump will work fine left std.. unless your duty cycle gets way up there.