Buyer's Guide - The Nissan C34 Stagea

[BensDR30]

They are the same thing:

The 260RS is the 'Autech Version' and vice-versa

[(OO Black 33 OO)]

Hey guys im looking to purchase a stagea sometime soon, was looking at the 260RS, is there any differences between them and the autech version (brakes, suspension etc) or is it just the autech badge?

Thanks

[(OO Black 33 OO)]

Ok but do they have the brembo brakes or anything else GTR on them?

Or do they come with standard stagea brakes, suspension etc..

The ones i looked at didnt have the autech badge on them so i thought they may be different.

Does anyone have a 260rs that can tell me the differences, looked on heaps of sites but most of them only have the 2.5

Any problems with the import of the car?

Edited August 5, 2009 by (OO Black 33 OO)

[BensDR30]

Ok but do they have the brembo brakes or anything else GTR on them?

Or do they come with standard stagea brakes, suspension etc..

The ones i looked at didnt have the autech badge on them so i thought they may be different.

Does anyone have a 260rs that can tell me the differences, looked on heaps of sites but most of them only have the 2.5

Any problems with the import of the car?

Full GT-R running gear; engine, gearbox, rear cradle, Brembo's, 3-gauge cluster, and body tweaks by Autech.

There are a few '260RS lookalikes' out there that are non-Autech conversions. Note that all genuine 260RS' were WGNC34 RSfours that have been modified - they are body plated as being an Automatic RB25DET.

There are usually a couple for sale at about $25-$30KAUD

[GoldZilla]

Full GT-R running gear; engine, gearbox, rear cradle, Brembo's, 3-gauge cluster, and body tweaks by Autech.

There are a few '260RS lookalikes' out there that are non-Autech conversions. Note that all genuine 260RS' were WGNC34 RSfours that have been modified - they are body plated as being an Automatic RB25DET.

There are usually a couple for sale at about $25-$30KAUD

That's right. Further to this (and regardless of the fact that the build plate states that the car is an automatic RB25DET), Nissan's FAST software will be able to tell you if it is a genuine Autech 260RS when you put the VIN into it. If FAST doesn't confirm it, it's not the genuine item!

[(OO Black 33 OO)]

Thanks for that, now just gotta find one that is genuine

[stagman]

NOOB question, but do all stage's have attessa and HICAS or are they one in the same? just to help me clear some confusion i have, thanks scott.

[GoldZilla]

NOOB question, but do all stage's have attessa and HICAS or are they one in the same? just to help me clear some confusion i have, thanks scott.

Nope, Scott - only the AWD versions have ATTESA, and there are quite a few RWD Stageas here in Oz.

And only the factory manuals (RS-Four S in the series 2, and 260RS in both s1 and s2) have HICAS.

[stagman]

And only the factory manuals (RS-Four S in the series 2, and 260RS in both s1 and s2) have HICAS.

Thanks mate, That answers my question and clears the confusion

[RS-V AREO]

hey i just read through this fourm and i saw that no1 said anything about wood grain cos mine is full of it, and also dose any1 have a 110v power point in the center console. cos i have read heaps about it and i havn't heard anything about.

i have pics aswell

[gebba54]

hey i just read through this fourm and i saw that no1 said anything about wood grain cos mine is full of it, and also dose any1 have a 110v power point in the center console. cos i have read heaps about it and i havn't heard anything about.

i have pics aswell

I have woodgrain, but steering wheel is leather (25t x four) I also have the power outlet, I use it sometimes for the ipod with one of those powerpoint adapters you get from the supermarket

[RS-V AREO]

I have woodgrain, but steering wheel is leather (25t x four) I also have the power outlet, I use it sometimes for the ipod with one of those powerpoint adapters you get from the supermarket

mine is series 2 rs-v prime edition do u have full leather? 6 stacker?

[jujimbo]

Hi i´m new to this forum was locking for info about the stagea as i´m considering buying one.

I most apologize if my english is bad as it´s not my native language i´m from sweden.

I have found a stagea thats converted to manual and rb 26 in japan, so i need help to what to check, before buying.

Greetings from sweden

[jujimbo]

site to car http://www.j-spec.se/bilar_salu.php?id=406

Sorry for got to ad in last message.

[BensDR30]

Hi and welcome!

The price conversion is $25kAUD, which is probably pretty reasonable all things considered.

Does that badge on the tailgate say '26X Four' ? (if it does, someone's having a bit of a joke and had the badge made up)

You should check to see if a modified car such as this can be registered - it would not be possible here in Australia to import and register this particular car.

It's still running the standard non-Autech brakes (see image #7), you'd probably want to consider changing them for something better if you plan on increasing the power output of the RB26. As per other posts in this thread - look for rust around the outside mirrors and around the front strut tops. Look to see how neat the conversion is (it looks ok to me.

You will have no true indication of the distance it's travelled due to it's non-standard condition.

[jujimbo]

Tanks for the help, the car is registred and finish to use, the importer say they have papers on that the conversion in japan is in standard to a factory car, so i´ll shall check for rust and if conversion is ok, clutch gearbox diffs elektronics etc.

Brakes i can get for good price: d2racingsports brake set.

[deceiver33]

wow im way confused as to what i have now??

i got a feb 2001 rs four s,its manual awd with hicas and pearl white in colour and has 17 inch wheels,they look simuler to 34 gtr wheels,full body kit incld side skirts and rear wing,as far as i can tell i have all these options i think..when i closes the rear door(boot)it makes a weired noise like somthing electric like its locking or somthing,is this the auto door close thing mentioned??,can somone tell me more about my car,i was almost convinced for a minute i had a 260rs but am minus the 26dett,i must have an autech bonnet has the sticker under the bonnet says rb26dett( the sticker for idle speed and spark plug gap etc,any info on my car would be sweet

[wolverine]

The rear door locking/whirring is exactly what you think it is.

Idle speed anywhere around 750-800rpm will do the trick. Plug gap of 1.1mm is fine assuming your coil packs are in good nick. IF you increase the boost and the spark breaks down you can lower the gap to 0.8mm or so.

RB25DET neo run 15deg advance btdc (not the 20deg of the RB26)

You should have R34 GT-t style seat.

Larger factory swaybars vs RS4.

That is a start anyway. All you need now is to get stuck into some mods.

[uppon2]

Hey i am thinking of buying a stagea in the next couple of days - My choices are buy a series 2 with basic mods or buy a series 1 with all suspension upgraded , mods and stereo etc for around the same price.... I am concerned about standard suspension in both series 1 and 2 cars and it is making me only look at models with upgraded stuff as i have heard some pretty bad reports on suspension. I don't want to spend much more money after getting the car but did not know if a series 2 is ok as (stock / zorst cooler coilpacks) I know the trans, engine and some exterior features are different between the models but is it really going to matter once you start bolting stuff on to the engine?

Any advice would be fantastic and thanks in advance

Edited November 30, 2009 by uppon2

[GoldZilla]

Hey i am thinking of buying a stagea in the next couple of days - My choices are buy a series 2 with basic mods or buy a series 1 with all suspension upgraded , mods and stereo etc for around the same price.... I am concerned about standard suspension in both series 1 and 2 cars and it is making me only look at models with upgraded stuff as i have heard some pretty bad reports on suspension. I don't want to spend much more money after getting the car but did not know if a series 2 is ok as (stock / zorst cooler coilpacks) I know the trans, engine and some exterior features are different between the models but is it really going to matter once you start bolting stuff on to the engine?

Any advice would be fantastic and thanks in advance

Hey mate, welcome to this section of the forums!

It comes down to a few factors when choosing a car:

• If you want a factory manual, then your choices run to a series 1 260RS, or either the series 2 RS Four-S or 260RS models.
  
• What do YOU prefer, looks and features wise?
  
• Which of the cars you're considering buying is in better condition overall?
  
• Have you checked out and compared insurance costs to see if they'd be the same?
  
• What upgrades would you like to do that aren't on either car yet?
  
• Were quality parts used for the upgrades, and was the work done to a decent enough standard?
  
• Have you driven either of the cars you're considering buying, and how did they feel to you?
  

What bad reports have you heard about the suspension?

Don't forget, these are not exactly sports cars, so you can't expect it to handle "perfectly" considering the compromises that have to come with the extra weight and practicality of it being a wagon.