Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the front can actually take a larger wheel/.lower offset than the rear

I had to roll my fenders quite a bit ot get an 18x9+20 to fit well.

i haev an 18x9 -5 (wiht a 25mm spacer total of -5) on the front with a roll as well, but it fits the same as the rear

its a skyling thing, all skylines can have a lower offset in the front

really?? i just tried some 18x9 +20 on my rs4 s and they fitted perfectly. but mine is std ride height

Will these fit the s1 stag?

Hey guys i have a set of 18 inch ROH Drift Rs with tyres for sale the tyres are a cheaper brand. 2 of the tyres have about 80% left and other 2 have about 60% left on them all tyres are roadworthy. 2 of the rims have slightly bigger gutter marks (not huge but visable) the other two have very little ones hardly noticable. I am not sure of the offset but they fit r33 reasonably well they sit slightly inside the guard. they measure 18x8 the tyres are 235/40/18 and the stud pattern is 114.3 so it will fit other cars with the same stud pattern. I am asking $900 but am open to offers any inspection more than welcome
really?? i just tried some 18x9 +20 on my rs4 s and they fitted perfectly. but mine is std ride height

yeah, if you lower, the camber you gain will allow you to space it out more

one of htese days i will order new wheels and fill up that space i rolled

BUT

if you run camber arms front and rear 18x9 +20 is perfect alla roudn

really?? i just tried some 18x9 +20 on my rs4 s and they fitted perfectly. but mine is std ride height

yeah, if you lower, the camber you gain will allow you to space it out more

one of htese days i will order new wheels and fill up that space i rolled

BUT

if you run camber arms front and rear 18x9 +20 is perfect alla roudn

hey guys,

got mine on today

18" x 9" +35 all round coulda done with +20 on the front though, the +35's sit well and are pretty much level with guards maybe stick out a touch but the front are well in :D. oh well im pretty happy witht them.

the pic makes them look small :)

IMG_48531.jpg

  • 4 months later...
The R33GTR 17 X 9 X 30 with 245/40/17's clears the standard guards with the ride height at at 340 mm front and 330 mm rear.

The standard wheels were 16 X 6.5 with 225/50/16's

The PCD is the usual Skyline 5 X 114.5

:) cheers :blink:

Does anybody know if any stagea chassis came out with R33GTR rims on? I just dropped my S2 RS-Four off to be fitted with them & tyres and the tyre fitter asked if I'd checked them for fittment, said they looked pretty wide lol. I just told him they were a factory wheel :sick:

Does anybody know if any stagea chassis came out with R33GTR rims on? I just dropped my S2 RS-Four off to be fitted with them & tyres and the tyre fitter asked if I'd checked them for fittment, said they looked pretty wide lol. I just told him they were a factory wheel :)

didn't come out with 33 gtr rims from factory but you'll have no trouble fitting them. might just need to fold the inner lip up dependant on your ride height and tyre choice

from memory they're only 17's yeah? 17x9+30? easy fit.

Edited by M I K E
Does anybody know if any stagea chassis came out with R33GTR rims on? I just dropped my S2 RS-Four off to be fitted with them & tyres and the tyre fitter asked if I'd checked them for fittment, said they looked pretty wide lol. I just told him they were a factory wheel :)
didn't come out with 33 gtr rims from factory but you'll have no trouble fitting them. might just need to fold the inner lip up dependant on your ride height and tyre choice

from memory they're only 17's yeah? 17x9+30? easy fit.

It shouldn't be a problem getting R33 GT-R wheels on a Stagea, as Sydneykid has a set on his with his suspension kit, so there'll be no clearance issues.

Thanks guys yeah Mike they're only 17 x 9 (though without tyres make it look like a steamroller :))

I did a test fit on the front and it clears the back of the hubs by about half an inch... but apart from that looked all good. I have seen a few with '33GTR rims, and the pic of SK's convinced me... especially since he hadn't done anything to his suspension I don't think at that time. But I read somewhere that he had seen 3 or 4 with 33GTR rims and I thought that some of the early 260RS's or something came out with them...

Thanks guys yeah Mike they're only 17 x 9 (though without tyres make it look like a steamroller :))

I did a test fit on the front and it clears the back of the hubs by about half an inch... but apart from that looked all good. I have seen a few with '33GTR rims, and the pic of SK's convinced me... especially since he hadn't done anything to his suspension I don't think at that time. But I read somewhere that he had seen 3 or 4 with 33GTR rims and I thought that some of the early 260RS's or something came out with them...

I would have loved some R33 GT-R rims for mine too, but I just managed to find some newer rims for mine and am just waiting for tyres to arrive before I get them put on.

All 260RS's (both series 1 and 2) came out with the same BBS rims, similar to the factory mesh-style RS-Four rims, but bigger in diameter and width (I'm pretty sure they were 17x9's, as opposed to 16x7), with different offsets front and rear (+20mm at one end, +30mm at the other, can't remember which way was which though...).

Thanks guys, yeah to me they look freaking huge - not in diameter so much as width! Bare minimum for a stagea I reckon is 9" wide...

Sure will Mike, picked up the car this afternoon... need to lower it an inch or two I think(!), it looks a little SUV with this rim & tyre combo. The Maxxis Z1's look pretty 'chunky'.

Pics tonight :wacko:

Edited by DaveB
i'm not sure what suspension you're running but if you want height adjustable coilovers PM pete ( BooDah ) - he's selling a set of teins :wacko:

Thanks; suspension is standard. Not sure if I wanna go that firm; but i'll think about it...

Yeah I think you're right; I had the rims powdercoated last week, and discovered they have some awesome pearl/metalflake finishes in powdercoat now. I chose "precious steel pearl", but they accidentally used "precious silver pearl" (which is what they are now). They offered to re-do it for free, but I didn't want anything too dark; they're close to the original colour which is cool but yeah, little too 'seasick smurf' unless viewed in bright sunlight (and it was getting dark when I took those shots). Next to bring it down a bit...

Hey all, can someone let me know if these will fit S1 Stag?

Any help greatly appreciated.

post-51686-1224593707_thumb.jpg

Diameter and width are fine, but the offset looks too high - I'm guessing that if they DO fit on your car without hitting on any suspension components or rubbing on the inner wheel-arch, then they're going to sit too far inside your guards to look right. They'll be too tucked in.

Also, if they do fit, make sure you use the right holes for your wheel-studs - this wheel is a 10-stud design, 5 of the holes are for a 100mm PCD (Subaru Impreza, Forrestor and Liberty; Audi TT and A3; VW Golf Mk3, Mk4, and New Beetle) and the other are for 114.3mm PCD, which is what your Stagea will use. The hub centre size is also different, so you'll need to get an adaptor to suit - this is VERY important as this is where the weight of your car sits on the wheels, NOT on your wheel studs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, but the narrowband is truly narrowband. So you take it out of the linear zone and it is effectively nonsense. And that linear zone is so literally narrow, that nonsense is not very far away. Unless they are flicking back and forth across the stoich point, for real, under actual control, they can't be trusted for anything except entertainment value.
    • I agree, and yet my "HRM " hat is also on, as his wideband is in disagreement with the narrowband where they used to play closer attention to each other.
    • That's the thing. Especially at idle, changing the cam angle by that much could be spewing more fuel out the exhaust courtesy of everything happening that bit later. More fuel also means more air (if the fuel didn't burn, then neither did the O2) and so the O2 sensors can start to tell interesting but misleading stories. And the specifics of what is happening could easily be affected by everything else you changed as well. And it could be dynamic, where a few revs more or less could somewhat change how the engine is breathing.
    • Good idea on the temp probe. The mv readings of the O2 sensors are very similar to one another, as is the injector pw. I went through logs in the past to see if there was a discrepancy and there is. Because they alternate up and down as narrowbands do.. they do often 'switch' as to which one is more. They were never 20%+ (more like 1-2%) so it's possible the difference between 20 and 15-17% is a similar discrepancy to 2.0% and 1.7% which I wouldn't have really noticed in the past. We did think about spacing the strut brace. Unfortunately the ~20mm that the GTR brace is lower than the GTT brace is effectively what you need to clear the vents. Moving it up would make it very uncomfortable, but it's plausible that 10mm is a unhappy medium between both hard places... The good news is.. using MR HAMMER it was actually pretty easy to bend back the bent bits to make sure the guard and headlight/new headlight tabs line up right. Yes, we used a R34 GTR guard to make sure the bolt holes all lined up with a known straight guard. As above, you can see the side skirt and the GTR guard are not meant to play together, but everyone seems to think this is a simple fix to the point where nobody who has had these talk to one another mentions how... ...so I'll just assume they know how to fix it when it comes to paint jail time again. Whoever they are. Nobody returns my calls. There's so much changed with regard to the ECU and the car.. that the next step really is to connect the scanner and attempt to drive the thing. It'll be pretty clear pretty fast how in or out everything actually is...
    • That's nasty! I think there is perhaps an inherent problem is using elastomers in such environments. The whole thing can and will get quite hot, and elastomers are not famous for their temperature resistance. On top of that, if the components are cast rubber or urethane and so on, there might be QA/QC problems with bubbles or voids in the material that could critically change their performance. They might just tear apart after being squished (presuming that any elastomers are used in compression rather than tension, I'm thinking that you squeeze one with a void in it and it tears the wall of the void to the outer edge of block, then the next time it extends or otherwise twists, it just gives up). This is all purely hypothetical, but it makes me wonder if the things that they have put into it to make it nice to use/live with are perhaps going to cause occasional failures like this. I wouldn't be getting up in arms over it, unless there are many repeats. I have personally ruined an Xtreme clutch - just an HD thing. I can't remember if it was still behind the 20 or was after the 25 went in. But it inverted some of the retaining spring/clip things around the outside. No-one could explain it. It wasn't thrashed, there wasn't heaps of torque being put through it, and there were no obvious problems other than the above. They were quite concerned by the event so they replaced it even though it was a few years old, which was very nice of them. As far as I am concerned, these things happen with clutches.
×
×
  • Create New...