Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as per PM reply brendan, you'll have alot of trouble making them fit (particularly since i get the feeling you want to put them on the front - talking about clearing big brakes)

if you are set on te37's get some 18x9.5+12's all round but be prepared to pay a mint as your pm suggests you want brand new ones

as per PM reply brendan, you'll have alot of trouble making them fit (particularly since i get the feeling you want to put them on the front - talking about clearing big brakes)

if you are set on te37's get some 18x9.5+12's all round but be prepared to pay a mint as your pm suggests you want brand new ones

thanks for that info mate

probably go for 18x8.5" +35 as per attached

will put big brake kit on track car project with bolton spacers & stag rear calipers

and throw the r32 gtr calipers allround (with new track pads) onto the stagea

wheel.doc

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi guys,

I'm New on the Board and i am really happy for so much stagea Fans!

I'm from Germany and i have an 260RS. In next time i will tell more about from my Person and the stagea!

I have two fast questions about the rims at the stagea. Is it possible to have an 8.5x18 et36 and 10x18 et37 rims without Problems? Know how Annone? Second, i have four 245/40 tires for this rims, is it ok to drive that on a 10J?? I really happy for your answers and tips.

Greefs from berlin

Edited by 260RS@R33Typ
Hi guys,

I'm New on the Board and i am really happy for so much stagea Fans!

I'm from Germany and i have an 260RS. In next time i will tell more about from my Person and the stagea!

I have two fast questions about the rims at the stagea. Is it possible to have an 8.5x18 et36 and 10x18 et37 rims without Problems? Know how Annone? Second, i have four 245/40 tires for this rims, is it ok to drive that on a 10J?? I really happy for your answers and tips.

Greefs from berlin

Hi and welcome!

You HAVE to keep the same rolling diameters between the front and rear. If you run the same tyres on different sized rims, it will not work. The rolling diameters will be different because of the stretching of the rear tyres to fit over the 10" rims.

You should try and find a set of wheels and tyres that are the same size and width front and rear, or you will have BIG and expensive problems with the transfer box after you drive it for a while.

  • 5 weeks later...

Helo Guys,

just to confirm this.

18x9 +20 5/114.3 fitted with 245/40R18 will fit onto the 260rs? Cos i read somewhere in this thread that i wll need spacers and longer wheel nut for the rear rims.

thanks peps.

  • 2 weeks later...

I'm not sure if they will fit without hitting on the strut, if they do fit then they will be sunken inside the guards heaps.

Also, for an RS4 due to the ATTESSA system you would be better off running the same width front and back, unless you work out the tyre sizes so you can maintain the same front and back rolling diameter.

G'day All,

Nice thread, heaps of info on offset for manuals, just a little about offset for autos though?

My Partner is in the process of buying herself a completely stock std S2 RSFourV Tiptronic Stag.

Stag to be lowered on Tein Wagon S-Tech Coils - Then She wants some nice rims!

Short of me trying my R33 GTR and AU Falcoon rims (when we get it home), can some smart person suggest the best offset for 18 x 8.5-9 rims all round - considering from what I have read the auto has a wider rear end in it compared to manual.

Advanced thanks for your time and info,

Cheers Mike.

14911431.jpg

Hi is anyone running 19x9.5 +12 on a rs four s without rolling the guards or is this to aggressive! Sorry if this has been covered! Thanks in advance for any help

That is exactly what I run. No guard rolling. 245/35/19 tyres with acceptable rear camber. 330mm ride height

That is exactly what I run. No guard rolling. 245/35/19 tyres with acceptable rear camber. 330mm ride height

Thanks your is exactly how id like mine to sit! Is there any more room under the front guards with the 34 front compared to standard??

  • 2 weeks later...
rims :- RAYS LM GT4

size :- 19 x 9.5 +30 offset

tyres :- Dunlop Maxx SP

size :- 19x35x245

fits a lowered m35 without rolling the gaurds thus far.

Thats mad. Look at those things! More photos please!!! I'm glad you didn't give up or listen to the "mechanics..."

:P

edit- found pics! NICE :yes:

Edited by PN-Mad

ok, ive tried figuring this out for myself here...

would 19x9.5+15 fit a stagea?

or +22? (theres a sick set of Rays GT-C's on a website that i've got my eye on)

and whats the deal with the 260RS? rear offset is different to the front yes?

if those offsets are wrong could someone tell me what offset i'd need to run 19x9.5's (or 10's if possible...)

thanks Brendan.

ok, ive tried figuring this out for myself here...

would 19x9.5+15 fit a stagea?

or +22? (theres a sick set of Rays GT-C's on a website that i've got my eye on)

and whats the deal with the 260RS? rear offset is different to the front yes?

if those offsets are wrong could someone tell me what offset i'd need to run 19x9.5's (or 10's if possible...)

thanks Brendan.

What model C34 do you have?

Auto?

manual?

260Rs with Brembo's?

That will determine what fits

When looking at Rays wheels against width and offset there is a couple of things to consider

Depending what on the offset on a certain size will deteremine what the caliper clearance is as referred to by Rays as disk type A, B or C

If you check out the Rays site, find the wheel you want, pick a size and compare it to the charts. If you need a "A" disk clearance, the offsets are different when compered to a B or C disk

Example

I run Rays's GT-C's Face 2 in a 19x9.5 +12, manual rear end.

Check the charts and you will see they are a "B" disk with 86mm outer rim (dish) Only just clear (1-2mm) r34 GTT 310mm dia brakes.

If I went to 19x9.5 +11, only 1mm different in offset, but they are a A disk (fit over brembo's) but with a 73mm out rim (so less dish)

Hope this helps.

http://www.rays-msc.com/wheels/index.cgi?d=19

http://www.rayswheels.co.jp/2009/products/...mp;for=domestic

Edited by darrinspencer

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
    • What HVAC actuator is under the steering wheel? Do you mean on the RHS of the centre console, immediately to the left of your shin? If so, then yes, it is probably that one, because that is the mode door actuator, and from what I know, it's still a pain in the arse to replace. I don't know about whole dash out, but you certainly have to rip into the centre console section. I don't know if it's covered in the workshop manual, as I haven't spent much time looking at those parts of it. (and by "the workshop manual, I mean the R32 GTR one, which is the most comprehensive one we have, and it should be similar enough between that and later cars to serve as a guide).
×
×
  • Create New...