Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Woo, actually +6 8.5 will not be good. I just remembered I'm running 8.5 fronts. That puts you 13mm further outboard than mine. Will be poking quite a bit by then.

In 8.5s +18 will be a great fit.

I just had a quick look on the will they fit page and did a measurements of my rear wheels with the 8.5" wheels. the +6 would sit as far out as my 9, where as the +18 would sit as far on the inside as mine, which scrap slightly so depending on your camber and how low the +6 may be the way to go on the manual for the rear. a

s for fronts the +18 are perfect (sit out about the same as my wheels but i am wanting mine to sit further out), but the +6 would make it about flush with the gaurd. but again depends on how low. and this is comparing to my RS4s and my dimentions on my wheels for you.

If you require pictures on my GTR wheels on for how they sit i can try and get them for you. but the will they fit page is a good site to check.

  • 4 months later...

Just thought I'd throw up today's work. I don't know why I waited 2 years to chuck some dish in, soo much happier with the look.

To begin with, my stag is an AWD RS4 with an auto rear cradle (however it has had a manual conversion, still running auto rear).

So my car came with AVS Model 5 18x8+38 (terrible, so I ran 25mm spacers all round)

IMG_2995.jpg

I've gone with some rota filth and got Rota MXR 18x9.5+20 which in my opinion fit perfectly! Not too aggressive but definitely sits flush! Running slightly stretched 235/40's. Haven't noticed any scrubbing except maybe slight on the fronts with full lock however my front guards aren't rolled and the plastic is still in the guard - the rears are rolled though.

JKKE5331.jpg

Edited by sekay1994
  • 4 weeks later...

I picked up an auto S1 that has some gashed stocky wheels, with tyres that are down to the belts. I'm budgeting for new wheels and tyres so that I can pick the specs, but I found a pretty solid deal on some rota drift teks with tyres. While these arem't the wheels I really wanted, they will pass a roadworthy, and keep some coin in my pocket for suspension parts. Wheels are 17x9.5 with a zero offset squared. tyres 225/45

I picked up an auto S1 that has some gashed stocky wheels, with tyres that are down to the belts. I'm budgeting for new wheels and tyres so that I can pick the specs, but I found a pretty solid deal on some rota drift teks with tyres. While these arem't the wheels I really wanted, they will pass a roadworthy, and keep some coin in my pocket for suspension parts. Wheels are 17x9.5 with a zero offset squared. tyres 225/45

Haha they won't pass. They will stick like 30mm out of the rear guard.

I picked up an auto S1 that has some gashed stocky wheels, with tyres that are down to the belts. I'm budgeting for new wheels and tyres so that I can pick the specs, but I found a pretty solid deal on some rota drift teks with tyres. While these arem't the wheels I really wanted, they will pass a roadworthy, and keep some coin in my pocket for suspension parts. Wheels are 17x9.5 with a zero offset squared. tyres 225/45

Good luck with those tyres - they are way too small.

Mine is Rs4s AWD manual. It sits fine on level ground but as soon as things start to move around they touch slightly on the rear coilovers (bc brand). tried 5mm spacers but it's not quite enough.

  • 3 months later...

Hello all, I wasn't able to find any photos of NM35 Stagea's with 16in wheels. Does anyone photos of their NM35 Stagea's with 16in wheels they are willing to post? I did see one post in this thread saying that V35 Skyline 16in wheels fit but there was no photo. What I'm looking at doing is getting some 16in wheels and tires for sure during the winter months. I'm in Canada and my Stagea should be landing on our shores in early November. I've been searching on Canadian wheel and tire supply sites but using 2003 Infiniti G35 Sedan as my filter for my 2001 NM35 Stagea.

  • 2 weeks later...
On 8.9.2016 at 8:07 AM, marlowe said:

That would be great to see! Yeah I'm not certain if the NM35's have different brakes/suspensions but that offset doesn't seem to far off from the wheels I am looking at, a set of 16in x 7in with 40mm offset.

I have lowering springs in these pictures and axis model ;)
brakes and suspension are same m35 and nm35 I think :D

20160308_163519.jpg

20160308_163535.jpg

  • Like 2
  • 2 months later...

Hi all. Just got my 2006 PNM35 about a month ago. Could not be happier!! Just wondering if anyone knows the Genuine Nissan part number for the 17" x 8" +40 alloys that came with my car? Don't have a spare at the moment. Will eventually be looking at upgrading to 18s but will need to save for a bit.

Update: I believe they may be K40300M D33 05.

Edited by mprodo01
  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Given you already have the engine cross member to match and likely gearbox mount to. The SR20 has a head start on the RB in this case. They handle GREAT with an SR20, lots of fun.   One I did back in the day
    • have no doubt and wanted too trust me and may regret later not necessarily worried about weight (would be 8 kg ish total) it was more the $$ to do it properly is about $6 - $7K in hardwear need long 310mm stroke jacks etc - plus install and call me whatever im not doing it myself even if wanted too cant weld etc  - thats $10K installed vs fraction of that cost while Ive spent some money on this POS I actually really dont like doing so unless its got a large chance to make me go faster 😁 hey in still carting this things around on a 15 yr old rusted open trailer so I can spend on racing not buy a new trailer to look better the manual jacks Ive had done are heavy and take space but are transportable and usable anywhere - taking or organizing even compressed air let alone nitrogen which is more whats needed coming from Perth to Winton or Sydney or the like honestly just adds to my brain headaches/ hurts of organisation also ha 15 mins job will get down to 2 - 5 min job vs 1 min job for airjacks - all tradeoffs I spose
    • Purely out of curiosity, how do you know all this @dbm7? Do you work with automatic gearboxes professionally? This goes way way way beyond "I've had an automatic Skyline once and did some mucking around"
    • I'll just reiterate that it's best to do all the wiring diagnostics, before even thinking about buying replacement solenoids ~ that is, be absolutely sure the solenoid is bad.....ie; bad connector(s), rodents chewed through a wire, etc etc. If you don't so this, you can fork out all the money for solenoids, only to find something else is wrong (this'll make you cry if you pull the valvebody only to find a broken wire is at fault... ...some more glue on the solenoid packs -- this is the RE5R01A shift solenoid assembly.... ...these are all shift solenoids ~ ostensibly they're the same as the shift solenoids from the 4-speed auto.... ...this is the RE4R01A solenoid set... ...with these, you have 3 shift solenoids attached to the plate, and the separate solenoid is the EPC solenoid (line pressure control) -- with both designs, the TC lockup clutch solenoid (also PWM so they could slide the clutch shut), is located on the lower valvebody half.... ...(story time)...back in the 90's, it was a common fault that the EPC solenoid (or TC-lock solenoid) would fail, but Nissan only sold them as part of the assembly (think ~$350 at the time) ~ thing was, Isuzu also used these boxes in light commercials, and you could buy the PWM solenoid as a separate part, so it was possible to buy/use that solenoid (around $65), and make it fit (remove the circlip, fit to old plate and deal with wiring)...making it a more cost effective repair. I've not seen the RE5R01A shift solenoid assembly, but with the 4-speed RE4R01A it was possible to hack/fit a single shift solenoid onto an other working set, using a donor solenoid from another set with failed EPC....(by rights the whole set should be replaced), but it ends up being a question of how much life is left in the box itself ; sometimes it's a viable repair to fix one solenoid, just to get another 100k of road miles out of it before it needs first overhaul...other times the box is that old/worn, you're as well doing first overhaul and replacing the solenoids and starting fresh... What Nissan did here with the 5-speed, was relocate the EPC solenoid to the lower valvebody (next to the TC lockup solenoid), and stuck the direct-drive clutch solenoid (for the extra gear) where the EPC solenoid used to be on the 4-speed....I can only imagine they did this for serviceability ; the PWM solenoids are most likely to fail, and it's a doddle to drop the pan and change these out (as opposed to dropping the valvebody itself to get at a top mounted EPC)... ...also keep in mind, that some BMW 3/5 series & Mazda (and maybe some Ford/Mazda rebadges, not sure), also used the RE5R01A box under a different name/part number...not saying parts availability is any better, but sometimes it helps to know this when it comes to NOS floating about in the EU.... HTH  
    • FWIW, air jacks are actually pretty light and simple to add, they are just 4 hydraulic cylinders (often at the main cage A and C pillar points) and an externally accessible airline  - they make quick work a breeze
×
×
  • Create New...