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how low do you plan to run it?

you'll want something relatively stiff if you are dropping it as they will be very close to the strut on the rear and under compression (say a bump in the road) the wheel will more than likely foul the strut

how low do you plan to run it?

you'll want something relatively stiff if you are dropping it as they will be very close to the strut on the rear and under compression (say a bump in the road) the wheel will more than likely foul the strut

Those 9.5's +20 actually have 4mm more inner clearance compared to 9's +30 gtr rims and they do not foul at all with 245's. 235 or 225 tyres would have more clearance.

I would be more worried with the scrubbing on the outer lip, esp if you want to run realistic minimal negative camber

I'd say tyres a little below the guards, 50-60mm below stock. I don't mind running something like Tein Basics, or BCs, but I think beyond about 8kg/6kg would be out of the question.

Minimal negative camber? pfft :blink: Not around here!

Edited by floody
Those 9.5's +20 actually have 4mm more inner clearance compared to 9's +30 gtr rims and they do not foul at all with 245's. 235 or 225 tyres would have more clearance.

I would be more worried with the scrubbing on the outer lip, esp if you want to run realistic minimal negative camber

i'm not talking aout tyres touching anything, i'm talking about inner lip of rim touching strut. which will happen when slammed and no camber correction.

18x9.5+15, dumped and no camber correction with 235/40 silverstones

100_0571.jpg

i'm not talking aout tyres touching anything, i'm talking about inner lip of rim touching strut. which will happen when slammed and no camber correction.

18x9.5+15, dumped and no camber correction with 235/40 silverstones

Lets forget about the tyres for a minute. The 9.5 +20 have an extra 4mm clearance to the strut than my 9's +30

My rims have approx 12mm clearance to the strut with the car running fairly low at 325mm with no camber adjustment and they never hit.

Now if you add tyres, depending what width they are, I use 245's on 9's which over hang the rim, the opposite to stretched, so the gap to the strut to tyre is like 6-8mm. No signs rubbing. I run sydneykids bilsteins, which I find too stiff with King springs which are around 4-4.5kg.

If you run tyres as per your example, 235's on 9.5 rims they will be stretched, so the closest thing to strut will be the rim, not tyre.

What ride height do call "slammed"

How much negative camber? -3 deg+

I have not had my car for a wheel alignment yet, but I did check my negative camber on the rear by measuring how much they layed in at the top over the rim diameter. They were 27mm at 325mm ride height and approx 15mm at 340mm ride height.

Lets forget about the tyres for a minute. The 9.5 +20 have an extra 4mm clearance to the strut than my 9's +30

My rims have approx 12mm clearance to the strut with the car running fairly low at 325mm with no camber adjustment and they never hit.

Now if you add tyres, depending what width they are, I use 245's on 9's which over hang the rim, the opposite to stretched, so the gap to the strut to tyre is like 6-8mm. No signs rubbing. I run sydneykids bilsteins, which I find too stiff with King springs which are around 4-4.5kg.

If you run tyres as per your example, 235's on 9.5 rims they will be stretched, so the closest thing to strut will be the rim, not tyre.

What ride height do call "slammed"

How much negative camber? -3 deg+

I have not had my car for a wheel alignment yet, but I did check my negative camber on the rear by measuring how much they layed in at the top over the rim diameter. They were 27mm at 325mm ride height and approx 15mm at 340mm ride height.

you seem to be overlooking the difference in suspension - different struts run at different diameters. the 12mm clearance to the strut you have can quite easily become 1 or 2mm with a change of susp (12mm is bugger all as it is)

2 quick examples i can dig up (not the best but show what i'm trying to say)

first is a set of struts, use typical spring seat and i'd assume would be similar to sydney kids setup (note diameter of strut)

600x450-2009091100130.jpg

second is a set of height adjustable struts (which most people referto as coilovers, even though normal struts are technically coilovers too) - you can see the added width and the marks in the thread where the wheels have rubbed, which is actually very common in stageas

japan3264649-img600x450-1252561840klumsb75820.jpg

now 'floody' is talking about running 'coilovers' so all i am doing is warning him about problems he may run into :blink:

this is what 'slammed' was. at a guess roughly 300mm eyebrow (i'm running 320 now that i've lifted it a bit)

100_0545.jpg

you seem to be overlooking the difference in suspension - different struts run at different diameters. the 12mm clearance to the strut you have can quite easily become 1 or 2mm with a change of susp (12mm is bugger all as it is)

2 quick examples i can dig up (not the best but show what i'm trying to say)

first is a set of struts, use typical spring seat and i'd assume would be similar to sydney kids setup (note diameter of strut)

second is a set of height adjustable struts (which most people referto as coilovers, even though normal struts are technically coilovers too) - you can see the added width and the marks in the thread where the wheels have rubbed, which is actually very common in stageas

now 'floody' is talking about running 'coilovers' so all i am doing is warning him about problems he may run into :blink:

this is what 'slammed' was. at a guess roughly 300mm eyebrow (i'm running 320 now that i've lifted it a bit)

I totally understand the different possibilities in strut diameter

My car came first with non height adjustable KYB shocks. Then I put in Tein wagons which had the thread sleeve down the struct for height adjustment, similar to your second pic of the zeals (ihad the same ones in my R33, nice and light being alloy), and now I have Bilsteins which have fairly large bore diameter.

Maybe for you and I to see eye to eye, need to measure our rear strut diameters to be able to compare clearance measurments. :blink:

Yeah I understand that coilovers can sometimes compromise space. Would be running in the region of 320-340mm eyebrow height (in comparison to the photo provided, by M I K E). The 31 coupe can satisfy my slammed to the ground urges.

But basically I can run that size without massively molesting the guards, from what I see?

OT...Anything special about those Nismo branded shocks? Thats what is on it now.

I run 245/40R18 federal on 18x9.5 +15, little stretch on tyre and rim is approx 10mm from rear std strut (rs4s).

Heaps of outer lip clearence on rear, front requires lowering and camber to suit.

Height? measure up tonight.

Edited by RED513
I'm looking at a set of 18" wheels (haven't bought the Stagea yet) and need to know the standard wheel dimensions.

It's a Series 2 if it makes any difference.

Anyone able to tell me what the Diameter, Width, Offset, PCD and standard tyre size are?

Cheers!

Edit... It appears to come standard with 215/50 R17 tyres

I just bought a series 2 Stagea rolling on 18"x7.5'' wheels with a 41 mm offset but it has spacers which push the wheels out about 20 mm and way clear of the caliper. I haven't tried them without the spacers because they would probably look like rubbish that way. I believe the stock wheel size is 16"x7" but I don't know the offset.

The wheel information on the door pillar says that the standard tyre size is 225x50x16 or 205x55x16.

I still have a set of 17"x18"track wheels which I used on my Skyline R33 GTS-t so I put them on the Stagea just to see how well they fit. They use to clear the R33 caliper by less than 2mm but on the Stagea it's more like 25mm +. Their offset is also 41 mm. The only difference seemed to be that they protruded from the wheel arch by the extra half inch.

  • 3 months later...

i ended up getting 2 new tyres for the stag, put the new ones on the rear so it doesnt stuff up my attessa!!

(my other tyres are 95% so no point getting 4)

i'll rotate once the backs wear past the fronts, or maybe even buy 2 more matching and rotate:)

Kuhmo (Marshal Matrac) KU17's 215/50 R17. i think thats standard for the rs4 s (thats the tyres that were on it when i bought it)

anyone else running Kuhmo's?? 170$ each seemed okay and i didnt wanna spend more than 200 a tyre.

  • 1 month later...

Time to dig up an old thread... Very interesting read, I just read all 13 pages!

I have just realised that the tyres on my 260RS are completely stuffed, so it's time to get new rims. We were thinking of getting Work XT7s and I was thinking 18x8.5 +32 or +20 would be the go. I think +32 would work a bit better on the front. The bummer is, he has none in stock and I'm really not sure if I should be waiting 6-8 weeks with the current tyres :D He does have 18 x9.5 +38 for the rear, but I think they will sit too far in and hit the strut. Anyone else agree? The other option is something like a Rota P1, but still throwing around ideas at the moment.

Standard 260RS rim is 17x7", correct? +30 front, +20 rear. Wife has the car at the moment, so I can't double check.

I have just realised that the tyres on my 260RS are completely stuffed, so it's time to get new rims. We were thinking of getting Work XT7s and I was thinking 18x8.5 +32 or +20 would be the go. I think +32 would work a bit better on the front. The bummer is, he has none in stock and I'm really not sure if I should be waiting 6-8 weeks with the current tyres :) He does have 18 x9.5 +38 for the rear, but I think they will sit too far in and hit the strut. Anyone else agree? The other option is something like a Rota P1, but still throwing around ideas at the moment.

The 18x9.5 +38 WILL NOT fit on the rears. I am running the same width 9.5's but in +12 (sit a further 26mm out than +38) with a manual/260rs rear and they clear the struts by approx 10-15mm with 245 tyres. The amount of rear camber also comes into play

Stick to the same width and offset rims front and rear that you can rotate them fornt to back.

You need to get the offset right when tring to fit 9 or 9.5's in a stagea, as there is not much room if you keep them level or inside the rear guards

When are you back in town? Come around and try my wheels for fitment

Or send they wife around, get her to bring a carton :D

The 18x9.5 +38 WILL NOT fit on the rears. I am running the same width 9.5's but in +12 (sit a further 26mm out than +38) with a manual/260rs rear and they clear the struts by approx 10-15mm with 245 tyres. The amount of rear camber also comes into play

Stick to the same width and offset rims front and rear that you can rotate them fornt to back.

You need to get the offset right when tring to fit 9 or 9.5's in a stagea, as there is not much room if you keep them level or inside the rear guards

When are you back in town? Come around and try my wheels for fitment

Or send they wife around, get her to bring a carton :no:

Yeah, I think 9s or 9.5s might be a bit extreme for what I need. I guess I should be patient... Thanks for the offer mate. I'm actually home this week, so might keep it in mind..

Kinda thinking about Work XD9s (in stock) or even Rota P1s at the moment.

hey guys, thought i'd ask for a bit of advice

i'm thinking that i want to get some lenso d1r's, will hopefully get them sometime this year so it means that they will have to come from spg here in tas

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=371751

only problem is that they only list their 9's in high offsets and the only thing close to a nice fitment will be the 18x10 +22

how would that go on an rs4s?

thanks

OK, I think I've settled on a set of Work XT7s :D

I'm looking at going 18x8.5 +32. I'm just a tad concerned about clearance with the front suspension. I've measured there is about 22mm between the current tyres and the suspension currently. The current tyres are 225s which are a bit wider (about 8mm overhang) than the rim. If I go to these wheels it will give me 21mm less clearance, which means 9mm between the rim and suspension. Is this cutting it too fine? I'd have to go for tyres that are not wider than the rim (probably 235s).

The Work USA site lists a +25 offset which would be idea, but you can't seem to get these out of Japan. The lower offsets (+20 or +12) are available for 9.5" rims, but I think this will be pushing it a bit far. What do you guys reckon? I really don't wanna have to go to spacers or something stupid like that.

OK, I think I've settled on a set of Work XT7s :P

I'm looking at going 18x8.5 +32. I'm just a tad concerned about clearance with the front suspension. I've measured there is about 22mm between the current tyres and the suspension currently. The current tyres are 225s which are a bit wider (about 8mm overhang) than the rim. If I go to these wheels it will give me 21mm less clearance, which means 9mm between the rim and suspension. Is this cutting it too fine? I'd have to go for tyres that are not wider than the rim (probably 235s).

The Work USA site lists a +25 offset which would be idea, but you can't seem to get these out of Japan. The lower offsets (+20 or +12) are available for 9.5" rims, but I think this will be pushing it a bit far. What do you guys reckon? I really don't wanna have to go to spacers or something stupid like that.

Have you checked the rears? They may hit the shocks

The fronts should work as they will have 4mm more inner clearance than R34 gtr rims 18x9 +30. I use to runs these with 245's

Seriously, come and try my rims, 19x9.5 +12 with 245's. Then you can work from there

Yeah there is heaps of space in the rear. About 40mm between the tyre and the strut and 26mm from the rim to the outer guard. Yeah it would be good to try out your rims, but I think I've pretty much run out of time now. Flying out tomorrow :P The days go so fast. Today I was running around to fix a split CV boot. Grrr

hey guys, thought i'd ask for a bit of advice

i'm thinking that i want to get some lenso d1r's, will hopefully get them sometime this year so it means that they will have to come from spg here in tas

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=371751

only problem is that they only list their 9's in high offsets and the only thing close to a nice fitment will be the 18x10 +22

how would that go on an rs4s?

thanks

well i just ran it through a tyre calc and it says that if my current wheels were +40 (i'm unsure what they are but have bad offset) and the new wheels have 265's (reasonable on a 10" rim?) on them that the tyre will be 2mm further inwards and 38mm further out

this should be ok on the back but i'll have to investigate on the front, its not low either so i dont mind having them sitting flush with the guards

i've attached the tyre calc too cos i think its a pretty handy one and gives a nice picture too: tire.xls

Well I've bitten the bullet and ordered my new wheels. Getting a set of Work Emotion XT-7s in 18x8.5" +25 offset. It turns out that +25 is only made for the USA market EVO 9s and 10s. It has not been released in Japan. I'm getting mine out of the US. Should be hear in a week or so (I hope). Can't wait. I'll post pics :cool:

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