Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If they are 7+40 vs 9.5+12 you will have 4mm less inner clearence and extend out wards by 60mm

Shit.

This means on the rears on 18x9.5 +12 I would need to run maby a 15m spacer. That's not cool.

Surely sonething is not right here.

Has anyone else ran these specs on an rs4s

From this thread they seemed to be ideal specs...

This is what I'm getting with stock R34gtt wheels

IMAG2019_zps2cd1d260.jpg

IMAG2021_BURST002_zpsaa721ca9.jpg

You can see where it touches. Mainly going up a driveway on an angle when there is flex.

I'm assuming the specs for the R34gtt wheels are right. I got them from the skyline wheel specks thread, I will check the wheel itself tomorow when it's light.

Anyone else running 18x9.5 +12 on their rs4s who can check their strut clearence?

Edited by GH05T

I thought gtt 34 where 7.5 et 40 which means you will gain 3mm clearance on the inside and a further 53 mm on out so yeah you will have to run spacers inner clearences to strut must be vastly diff on manual hmmm

gaining clearance is good....

gonna use some slipons for the time being...hopefully 8mm will be enough to clear.

it only touches when angeling spoon drains and driveways.

will check the offset when i get the wheels off at work today to confirm their specs

also im sure the lowering has added a little bit of camber which will be sucked out when i fit the new wheels

the kms i do anything other than 0-0 camber is madness

Edited by GH05T

Yeah lowering will add camber, and then with the slip on spacer and new wheels you should have over 12 mm inner clearence ;) will be fine a bit of extra poke out the back won't hurt anyway

ok stamped on the R34 wheels i can confirm is

17X7 JJ +40

so im going to loose a further 4mm clearance from the inside on the new wheels.

hmmm so 18X9.5+12 DO NOT FIT RS4-S stageas

when the new wheels arrive i will need to test fit them without tires and see what is going to need to be done to clear them to my liking and how much outer extension im going to get.

the wheels will naturally add 60mm (from the R34 wheels not stock stag wheels) and im assuming im going to need maby a 15mm hubcentric spacer to properly clear them.

maby less once the wheels lift the car a bit and the camber is taken out.

so spacers, roll the guards 235/40 tires, 0 camber and we should be ok, gonna look fat either way.

a tiny bit worried about the extra strain on the bearings but meh.

amazed that the issue was with the rears on the 4WD seing as i understand they have a narrower subframe (more like the R33gtr?? )

and the fronts are happy as larry.

Edited by GH05T

yeah thats what i have been reading too.

well the truth will come out when they arrive i guessshould be early next week.

im hoping i have missed somethig, mis calculated something misread something, and they fit without further modification but i dont see how.

i cannot imagine the coilovers would make that much of a difference, they may be thicker but their is only so much difference they could make.

Well I'm perplexed jet r31 is running 9.5 + 20 on his auto with Bc coilovers "the rim to coilover should be the same between autos and manuals just the out side diffrent " he has 5to 6mm clearence at I think neg 2 camber so if we look at that you at 9.5+12 should have 8mm more clearence on the inside so a total of 13mm clear and stick out 8mm more but ya got heaps of rm that way :) !!!! Then if I look at me I'm attempting to run a 10+5 so

Just took a pic of mine for you (sorry it's sideways, uploading from phone and it rotated it). As you can see there's quite a bit of clearance with the stock shocks, I'd say a good 15mm. Obviously BC's are thicker though. I'm not sure how much but you can work that out. Mine is as stated earlier s2 rs4s running 18x9.5 +12 with 245 40's.

post-81631-13838105438716_thumb.jpg

well wtf is goin on here. i cant work it out.

is their anything that could be different on my model?

1998 Series 2 RS4-S manual 4wd

everything looks stock appart from the BCs, unless my wheels have been tampered with...nah im just pulling at straws now.

i will be VERY interested when the wheels arrive for test fit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you checked the foam over the years? No deterioration to the foam from e85 mixing in oil? (assuming you're on E85)
    • Add to this... What blew the fuse too? If a circuit feeding power to the coils was blown, how were the coils even functioning to let the car start?   There is some seriously wrong wiring in that car for certain, and I'm betting there is some melted cables somewhere, but I can't explain the 30v either, unless there is something back feeding on that power line that has a dodgy power system and the electronics are giving it hell.
    • This is typically the case with such threads. What I cannot quite get my head around is where a reading above 12V (or 13.8 or 14.x or whatever the maximum achievable voltage might actually be in that specific car) comes from. 25V or 30V should be completely impossible. There's no way to create it. Hard to answer that question. It will literally depend on whether the current tune relies on the values as set. I'd guess it probably does. ie, the real base pressure being 49 means that the flowrate through the injectors will be higher than if it was 43.5. The Haltech's modelling should be handling that, but because it thinks the pressure is only 43.5, then..... I dunno. It should be thinking that it will be injecting less fuel with each pulse duration than is actually happening. So, something is definitely not-as-it-should-be, but specifically what that is is beyond my abilities to imagine. Someone like Dose who spends more time with Haltechs might have a better thought.
    • Bit of a late reply here as me and my wife have been really busy with new born twins. I finally got these issues fixed and it was something really stupid that caused all of this 🤦‍♂️... After alot of mucking around with trying to figure out what is causing these issues, I back probed one of the R35 coils on the power 12v supply, with the engine running it got 25v! And I thought, hang on..., this isn't normal. Measured my battery with the engine running to check for over charge from the alternator and it wasn't that. So then I dissconnected the R35 PRP coil harness and backprobed the power supply on the engine loom where the ignition coil harness connects, with the key on ignition (engine off) it measured 30v! So then I had to trace where that high voltage was coming from and it lead me to the brown relay "ECM & IGN coil relay" inside the cabin next to the ECU on the passanger wall. This relay feeds power to the ECM and ignition coils. Tried swapping it with another same relay. nah still 30v.. coming from the 2 green/white wires in the brown relay. So then I set my multi meter to the beep continuity mode and probed every fuse on the fuse box inside the cabin to try and find this high voltage power source. Wasn't any of the fuses inside the cabin. Then probed all the fuses in the engine bay and BAM, got my power source that was a 10AMP fuse called "ENG CONT". Pulled the fuse out, and what do you know... it was blown. 🤦‍♂️  So then I quickly replaced it with a new 10AMP fuse, started the car and yeah haha [insert extreme face palm]... The RPM blimping thing went away, car idles smoothly now like what it was before. I swear! I checked all my fuses with my test light twice before I created this forum thread. I think, maybe because one side of that faulty 10A fuse lit up on my test light, I must have thought it was still ok and not blown. But now I know to have both sides light up on the test light when checking fuses... I hate diagnosing electricals.... I'd take mechanical problems over electrical problems any day🤣. Drove the car around my suburb with the engine up to operating temp and it runs fine like before. However, I notice that my fuel pressure is still at 49psi. So I'm thinking this must be normal for my system as I've upgraded the stock fuel pump to a Walbro 255L/h with a constant 12v mod.  But anyway, I'm just glad to have my daily back on the road! Thanks everyone for the replies on this thread, all sorted now! One thing I want to ask you tuner guys, my base fuel pressure on the haltech main settings are set to 43.5psi from default (my tuner must have not checked the fuel pressure maybe when tuning my car?). Do I set it to what it actually is idling on at 49psi? Or just leave it ("if it aint broke, don't fix it/leave it")?  
    • The max they would go for me is 50.
×
×
  • Create New...