Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is there anything that will be a major problem with splicing a set of series two coilpacks into a series one loom? I havn't had a close look at a series 1 loom yet, but I assume it's basically a matter of just skipping past the series 1 ignitor and hooking them in directly to the loom?

If anyone has done this I'd love to hear how it went.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92241-replacing-ser1-coilpacks-with-ser2s/
Share on other sites

Sorry buddy but it will not work.

Firstly, the series 2 coil pack will not fit into the series 1 steel brackets...different shape...series 1s are bigger. secondly, the series 1 coil pack has the ignitor inside each coil. In the series 2 coilpacks, the ignitor is outside the engine in the little black box somewhere near the fire wall.

So your car will not run with the series 2 coilpack in it.

Get yourself a set of splitfire coils from nengun.com like i did. Much better and worth the wait!!!

I know this bcos it has been mentioned on the forum b4 and also my mechanic tried to fit series 2 coils in my series 1 and it wouldnt even fit at all!!! Even if he did get it to fit somehow, it still will not work....haha...some mechanic :rolleyes:

If you compare a series 2 coilpack with a serie 1 coilpack, you will find notable differences...size, shape and colour(series 2 a bit more greyish).

Is there anything that will be a major problem with splicing a set of series two coilpacks into a series one loom? I havn't had a close look at a series 1 loom yet, but I assume it's basically a matter of just skipping past the series 1 ignitor and hooking them in directly to the loom?

If anyone has done this I'd love to hear how it went.

Edited by danieltangtc

platinum - i can see no major problems with getting the series 2 coil bracket and coils, skipping the ignitor and wiring them in directly. i beleive it will work just fine. if you can't get the bracket though, just remote-mount them with leads on the firewall.

I think that will be okay as I have the series 2 steel brackets as well as the coilpacks. :D

I'll just wire in the series 2 loom plug (i have that too heh!) straight into where there series 1 loom usually goes into the ignitor.

Looks like a nice experiment but I think some magic smoke will be happening...

Just because it looks simple, doesn't mean it works that way. There are more things to consider. People who have experimented with their igition system have fried their coils, ECU, ignitor modules and so one.

Hope all works out but I wouldn't do it!!

I've heard alot of horror stories about igition systems so its your call, make sure you do alot of research first.

Looks like a nice experiment but I think some magic smoke will be happening...

Just because it looks simple, doesn't mean it works that way. There are more things to consider. People who have experimented with their igition system have fried their coils, ECU, ignitor modules and so one.

Hope all works out but I wouldn't do it!!

I've heard alot of horror stories about igition systems so its your call, make sure you do alot of research first.

I don't know - but it seems to me that in series 1's is goes

Signal -> Igniter -> Coilpacks -> Sparkplug

Whereas, in the series 2's it simply cuts out the extrac jump and goes

Signal -> igniter/coilpack combo -> Sparkplug

The actual signal from the loom should be identical I'd say.

benl1981: how much are you chasing

N I B: thanks, any reason why they are better? ;)

I don't know if I should admit this.... :(

But I was just down having a play with the setup, and thought that the plug on the loom coming from the coilpacks looked a very similar size to the one on the ignitor, and what do you know it fits perfecty. ;)

Should really learn to check these things. :(

make sure the pins are correct and see how it goes.

interesting about the series 1 coilpacks being a bit better, anyone else found this?

NIB you mentioned using a GTR ignitor can help, is there much wiring and mucking around to do when installing one in place of the RB25 job?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes correct. Also, I'd avoid applying it to soft paint (however I doubt you'll ever have to deal with it in practice). So any paint that hasn't fully hardened, could be a 1k paint that never fully hardened or it could be a 2k paint that was laid down thick and hasn't yet fully hardened. 
    • Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
    • I recently purchased a 2018 Infiniti Q60, which has an SD card navigation map. I can see my system has options for real time traffic updates etc, and am wondering if there is something I can purchase to get this working? I can see there are at least updated maps for USA and Canada, but nothing for Australia. Surely Infiniti took changing road systems and city expansions into account when they decided to use an inbuilt navigation over Android Auto/Apple Car Play, or are we doomed to drive on streets that don't exist in the navigation system if you drive to a new area?
    • Luckily I didn't put in etch primer as I just found out it's not compatible with my body filler lol. Also just need to sand the panel anywhere between 150-400 grit so I'm in the clear there. It does say to not apply to soft old paint, I assume that means paint that is flaking, peeling,etc
×
×
  • Create New...