Jump to content
SAU Community

To Buy Or Not To Buy A Skyline


sheriff
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

So whats the go if you want to import one of these beasts?

Who is the leader in Melbourne for importing a Skyline? I was on Spencer St, West Melbourne today looking at the Skylines in GTI. Prices were abit high for me but they did have a nice R33 GTR V-Spec for $80,000! Yeah right, dream on I said to myself!

How do you know that your NOT buying a lemon from overseas? Aren't you better off buying private or from a dealer? Please explain? :D

My girlfriend was pushing me flatout today to take one for a test drive, too bloody scared to as I know what will happen...I want one!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Importing is a risky process, i imported my R33 6 months ago. Was told that it was in A1 condition and a "pristine example." Only to receive it with about 5 areas which have been sprayed with a can and stand out like dog balls, and panel damage in the rear (un-noticable in the pictures i viewed) But its just luck of the draw i guess..Anyways gl with your quest for a 33..Cheers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For first timers into the import community its probably best to buy a landed car. If you are a little daring and can place some trust in an import broker then you should import one from japan. You will save yourself markups in the process. It can be made a little easier if you have the car inspected while it is in Japan before you buy it. An option available through some import brokers :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

..... but they did have a nice R33 GTR V-Spec for $80,000! Yeah right, dream on I said to myself!

What a wank price. GTR33's selling now range in age from 95 to 98(being the youngest I've ever seen here) and while the later models have some nice extras, they are mechanically the same. The V-spec does have the active rear diff and a faster ATESSA processor speed but that is exactly $50K more than I paid for a 95 car with a Racepace built engine 2 years old, 260rwkw on the stock computer with steel turbines, Apexi height and damping adjustable suspension, brand new DBA slotted brake discs and new pads, well maintained and 18x9.5" Volk TE37's. All in Midnight Purple. Hasn't cost me a cent that I had to spend so far but I have replaced the suspension with Sydneykids much nicer Bilstein kit from Whiteline as I'm recovering from back surgery.

It's a buyers market for GTR's right now so take a look around. Set a firm but fair price and make an offer. If it were well under $20K I'd say take the risk on bringing one in but for the approx $30K plus for a GTR33 you should be sensible and buy local. If the car is interstate then take a quick flight if you think you will buy it. Sellers will start to feel the pinch after a couple of months of not selling; and cold hard cash is a huge incentive to not stand on their price principles.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

drive around melbz for a few hours and tell me how many white R33's you see, then come back and work out why dezz laughed at you. lol.

and red is the go btw, then black :).

anyways, fuel economy for me lately hasnt been as good as it used to be, think im runnin abit rich, but anyways its still better than the holdens we have as well ( not paying out... using them as a comparison ). who says you MUST use 98 ron or higher for a near stock gts-t...... :( i always thought 95 ron was the lowest you could use in them? even though i use 98 ron anyways i just wanna know the answer to that.

as for insurance, depends on your age more than anything, if your a p plater like me and a few others and driving a car like an R33 gts-t full comp obviously wont be cheap, so third parties the go really, and just cars is good, there the only people who'd insure me, other places i rang wouldnt <_<

ummm yeah cant think of much else that hasnt been said. there an awsome car anyways, alota people will have varied opinions but imo there a great car to drive, own, and all that.

:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anyhoo, white gets really bad stains on it as well unless you're willing to polish your arse off every week.

I know you're looking at a 33 (commonly called a 'boat'.. hehe this will start an argument), but if you get a 32 be prepared to have it off the road 3/4 of the year :( Soon as you fix something, something else breaks..! Could just be due to age but still..

If you still want that boot room, forget a skyline... luckily we have a 180 with fold down seats which is the 'furniture transporter'..

And not only more police attention but attention from thieves also, you'd want an alarm as a minimum but thats probably only going to stop your amateur vandals really.

Anyhow GL, you came to a good place to ask these questions :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gee wiz...Am getting some good info thanx. :D

Am now having second thoughts about this type of car.Things breaking, theft, cops & attempted car jacking! Whats wrong with people these days? Anyway, have taken on board your comments about importing a Skyline, think I'll look for a local one. I have a friend @ work who is currently importing Skylines from Japan. Have seen some of his imports in our staff carpark, very nice indeed!

On the subject of insurance I will ring around & get some verbal quotes. Your info has been great on what my future car will need ie: Alarm & Imobillizer.

As far as what colour to get, I like the look of the metallic Purple, Silver, Steel Grey. I have already owned a White car, yes the Skyline looks great in white but, nah!

Now who can settle this current debate on what fuel you have to run? Do you absolutely have to run these machines on 98 RON or will they also run on 95 RON. Please explain. :P

Spare Parts. I will look at the forum on this site on items for sale, but can someone please tell me what sort of 'common' things break on a R33 Skyline. If I'm going to have to keep fixing this car then maybe I'm better off keeping my trusty Mazda.

Anyway, my passion is still there, I love the sound of an RB26DET engine as it rumbles past me, the clean lines in their bodies and those awsome round tail-lights. Keep the feedback coming please as you all are helping me heaps! :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

jap fuel is 100RON...sometimes 105RON from what ive read.

these cars are tuned for that fuel, so you're supposed to use as close as you can possibly get to that (98 RON unless you wanna use like race fuel)

dont wanna use 98RON? get your car de-tuned and sacrifice power to run shitter fuel :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the reply, So i've continued playing around, and fitted the injector adaptors onto the injector, the fuel rail is not able to be mounted now as the injectors sit a bit further out. I suppose the point of the adaptors is so that the injector nozzle isn't so deep into the intake? I suppose 1mm extra on the o-ring would do it but still can't mount the rail onto the intake haha. Waiting on a reply from Aeroflow I'm sure there's something stupid that I'm missing...
    • I have a radium fuel rail on my Greddy manifold and used the supplied radium fuel injector to manifold adapters (The round green things pictured). I did always wonder if you could just go ahead and use the second lower hole like you're doing... Wouldn't thicker o-rings solve your issue?    
    • From what I've seen and experienced first hand with those powder extinguishers, they're good to use to break a window and escape the car, and half the time then do f**k all to stop a fire. You just need much more than 1KG worth of powder. Not to mention, half the time it's an engine bay fire, and you can't easily, and do not want to completely open the bonnet, so you're left pretending to be an American Infantry... Spray and Pray baby!   And then 100% that shit is really destructive afterwards!   Realistically, those little ones at a race track might help you keep the fire from growing and give the fire marshal / truck a chance to actually get to you with their multiple large bottles.   For a road car, these days, prepare to deboard as quickly as humanly possible, and move to safety. Allow insurance to fix replace it (unless it's like a rare classic etc, then do nearly everything possible to save it!) Keep the little extinguisher with you to help protect other things around you from burning while you stand there singing "How can we sleep while our beds are burning?"   Secondly, powder extinguishers I freaking hate for indoor use, (this isn't really relevant to a car) as you will get a powder fog around you, and it can be disorientating.   When I did fire training when at BlueScope Steel, they have (had?) their own fire brigade on site. We did all the training, and at the end we were told, "If it's an indoor fire, and you need to use a powder extinguisher, we as the fire brigade would rather you just exit the building, you're more likely to get lost in the smoke and powder fog than do much help, so just GTFO" And pretty much that was what they said for most other fires too, grab extinguisher, if it's much more than paper in a bin fire, use extinguisher to get you and others out of the building to safety...   Part of me wishes when my Skyline caught alight many moons ago, I let insurance sort it out, instead of putting the fire out... part of me now says "But I've saved a classic before it was a classic!"
    • Hi all,  I have a older model of the Greddy Front facing intake on an RB25DET NEO Head. I've bought aeroflows fuel rail and injector kit (1000cc Bosche injectors) and I'm unsure if the fitment is correct. The injector o-rings fit in the intake hole but it's not snug. I can very easily rotate the injectors even when the fuel rail is mounted. The kit also came with multiple adaptors, they dont make it any more snug and using them raises the injectors up and i cant mount the fuel rail. I hope this makes sense I've asses a few photos.    Thanks so much guys. 
×
×
  • Create New...