Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys if you wanted a cheaper, say an R34 GTT coupe for around 25-30 K would it be better to import it via j spec or whichever or buy R34s that have already been brought over? Im keen on an auto R34 coupe GTT and saw on j spec site them go for as low as 22 grand (add another grand or so for hidden costs like new tyres and rego) with only 60 K on the clock and a good rating 4.

Currently I see GTT go for 28-35 K in Australia with relatively high Ks...

Comments?

Edited by Sir-D
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92274-importing-or-buy-local/
Share on other sites

depends if you want it tomorrow or in a few months?

this has been answered many times.. there are advantages to both in that yes imports are generally cheaper... but a car that has allready been imported can be test driven by your self

in the long run there are advantages and dissadvantages to both.. and things can go wrong equally in both types of purchases, allthough more people regard importing as more fo a gamble, however if no one did it, there would be none for people to buy locally lol

its something you should sit on and yes i think its a good idea to seek other peoples opinions and personal stories to get a good all round perspective on what to do

personally i bought locally because it was convienient for me but not nessasarily cheaper, howver i would definatly consider importing in the future and have heard good things about j-spec

there are some members on the forum who work for j-spec i belive too

just remember ... dont allways do something because its cheaper.. i have a favorite quote of mine that goes like this

"cheap and reliable wont be fast, fast and cheap wont be reliable, and reliable and fast wont be cheap" ;)

-Ruffels

Edited by Ruffels

another grand or so should be about $2k

Alarm, hidden customs costs, transporting, decent tyres, stamp duty, fm expander for radio, xenon switchover, degassing of aircon and of course even more bloody tax for on road costs (paying tax on the same car 3 times really sucks)

another grand or so should be about $2k

Alarm, hidden customs costs, transporting, decent tyres, stamp duty, fm expander for radio, xenon switchover, degassing of aircon and of course even more bloody tax for on road costs (paying tax on the same car 3 times really sucks)

most of those things are already included in the compliance cost except for tyres and rego.

most of those things are already included in the compliance cost except for tyres and rego.

there are unknown costs that arise..new customs entry system being implemented atm causing huge delays for some ...storage costs not in original budget,also allow at least $350-500 for rwc ,bar touch up etc ..this is on a grade 4 car ..lesser the grade greater the amount to be spent here,try and remember your buying cars from auction not showroom... in japan as with the rest of the world ..no one sends perfect cars to the auction

Buy localy if you can , you can see the car and its already registered , there is always a risk that you may not be able to get it complied /registered due to rust or previous damage .

Dont forget it will cost you more than the aproximate price on their website as well , for instance if you have to replace brakes , thats extra and stock items are not cheap ( you must use stock pads and rotors ).

The $4k they estimate for compliance could cost you $5 , 6 or even more .

They dont allow enough for transport , the actual boat fee may only be $1000-1100 but when you start adding , customs , q/t , tow truck , steamclean and tow truck to the steamcleaning place , it will cost over $2 k .

Tyres , you will end up with some crap asian tyres that you will throw out and they have to be stock rims and stock size tyres .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
    • Bit of a similar question, apprently with epoxy primer you can just sand the panel to 240 grit then apply it and put body filler on top. So does that basically mean you almost never have to go to bare metal for simple dents?
×
×
  • Create New...