Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I just recently went to purchase some gauges for my new car and went to local supplier to get prices. I was surprised at how expensive Autometer gauges are. They are made in the US so I signed up as a re-seller for Autometer US to get my gauges cheap (around 30 – 50% off RRP in Australia).

Because of the need for gauges and the high prices in Australia I am organizing a group buy.

GroupBuy will run from: 28/10 – 11/11.

After this group buy I will re-asses the situation and choose whether to do another or not.

To view the complete Autometer range please go to www.autometer.com

I will not reply to requests to prices in this thread or via pm’s. If you send me a PM I will ignore it. I will only reply to emails sent to [email protected] Do not send me model details, all I need it model numbers, without model numbers I can not get a price.

How to order:

1. Email me at [email protected] for a quote with a list of the model NUMBERS.

2. Fill in this form here with all the correct information: PLEASE FILL IN THIS FORM

Send the completed form with either cash or a Money order enclosed for the correct amount to:

Greg Kruse

PO Box 57

Werribee

Vic 3030

3. The order with Autometer US will be placed on the 12/11 and will then take around 6-8 days to get into Australia, I will then send all gauges out by registered post with full insurance to ensure you receive your items.

NOTE: This group buy in NON profit and will not be put through GK Technologies. This is me doing you guys a favor as well as helping me create a better relationship with Autometer US.

Here is an example of the prices (cost).

4380: $189US x1.34 = 253.26AUD x 1.1 (GST) = $278AUD

Shift light solution 1:

5340: $104US x 1.34 = $139.39AUD x 1.1 (GST) = $153AUD

5367: $32 x 1.34 = $42.88AUD x 1.1 (GST) = $47AUD

Shift light solution 2:

5310: $90US x 1.34 = $120.60AUD x 1.1 (GST) = $132 AUD

5367: $32US x 1.34 = $42.88AUD x 1.1 (GST) = $47AUD

5334: $48US x 1.34 = $64.32AUD x 1.1 (GST) = $70AUD (black shift light (also available in silver, can also be run off an RSM if you are using one, this is what I used,)

cheers,

Greg Kruse - GK Technologies

www.gktech.com.au

6159: $199.89US x 1.34 = $267.85AUD x 1.1 (GST) = $294 (RRP: $479)

6153: $199.89US x 1.34 = $267.85AUD x 1.1 (GST) = $294 (RRP: $479)

Postage within Australia will be around $10.

Another example...

These are for the Cobalt gauges which are very expensive (still cheaper than DEFI etc.)

6159_d.jpg

6153_d.jpg

Powered by digital microprocessor-controlled, rugged stepper motor drives & laboratory grade sending units, Full Sweep Electric Gauges are the BEST gauges available. They combine Extreme Durability & Readability of 270 degree sweep mechanical gauges w/ the Easy Installation & Safe Operation of short sweep electrics. Track Tested & Race Proven, these units use precision senders to keep hazardous fluids out of the driver compartment, and perform gauge calibration and sensor diagnostics at power up for Extreme Accuracy, every time. Most units compatible w/ Auto Meter Data Logger for the ultimate race info center.

cheers,

Greg Kruse - GK Technologies

www.gktech.com.au

How much for a Autometer 4401 2 5/8 boost guage, these go for around $150.

4401: $66.42 x 1.34 = $89.00AUD x 1.1 (GST) = $97.90 + $5 delivery within Australia.

P.S I will not reply to any more posts in here regarding prices.

I will not reply to requests to prices in this thread or via pm’s. If you send me a PM I will ignore it. I will only reply to emails sent to [email protected] Do not send me model details, all I need it model numbers, without model numbers I can not get a price.

cheers,

Greg Kruse - GK Technologies

www.gktech.com.au

Another price example for Carbon fibre boost gauge and carbon fibre Air/Fuel gauge.

4784: $58.28US x 1.34 = $78.10AUD x 1.1 (GST) = $86AUD

4775: $72.84US x 1.34 = $97.60AUD x 1.1 (GST) = $107AUD

  • 2 weeks later...


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...