Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

I got a RB20DET in a silvia.

Just drove my car seems to be alot of steam or clear smoke not white coming from what seems to be around the rocker covers.....what could this be does not show on the temp dial thats its overheating.

But is has caused the car to stall twice so far and it wont kick over until you leave it for 5 mins.

I need any help i can get ASAP.

- Thanks Luke

Edited by RB20DET_Silvia
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92620-urgent-help-please/
Share on other sites

I'd stop turning the engine over incase you're doing any more damage.

Does it smell like oil?

Do you have oil in your radiator? Do you have a full radiator?

I'd be looking for oil or a exhaust leak - depending on what it smells like.

Head gasket let go perhaps? did it occur after spirited driving?

The temp guage will read normal if there is no water in the system....it needs water to function correctly.

If you drove it till it stalled and did that a couple of times you will have warped the head. If may drive ok once the leak is fixed but get a leak down test done and find out how bad it really is. Another problem is that the turbo would have overheated severely also so there is a good chance that once you fix the problem, be it water pipe, welsh plug or head gasket, the turbo may have damage to the bearing which can cause them to fail soon afterwards.

Another problem that you will have to check is piston shrinkage. If it turns out to be a head gasket blown and you drove it until it stalled there is a good chance your piston can shrink in size once cool again. Make sure you get this checked out by whoever does the head work - BTW it will cost at least $600 to repair the head if it is warped.

have you found the exact point the fluid is coming out?

i had some trouble with my r33 dropping coolant but only after giving it heaps, never lost any thru normal driving. it was dripping down off the bottom of the block. traced the leak back to a tiny pin sized hole in a coolant line close to the block, guess that the leak was forced due to higher temps/extra pressure in the lines.

have since covered and clamped the hole (no more leaks even after hard driving), and am replacing the lines this weekend.

not sure if this is relative, but may be worth checking.

  Duncan said:
maybe a cracked block?

Look, engines run on smoke.  Once all the smoke gets out they are dead.

aaaahhh, i see you are wise in da ways of da smoke. applies equally to electrical systems particualry those installed in pommy cars and affiliated with lucas aka the prince of darkness.

You will be looking at a minimum of around $1000 to do a head gasket on one of these if you go through a workshop.

$1600-$1800 if the head is bent (which it more than likely is)

$4000 if the pistons have shrunk.

Good luck, let me know if you have any issues. I have dealt with many of these.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...