Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Theres two types of limited edition R31s- the local spec GTS1s and GTS2s. They came with a 130kw RB30 (instead of 112kw) with unpgraded cam, extracorst and chip (I think). Also have very nice seats and steering wheel, LSD, and bilstein shocks. Each one there is only 200 made, and are a highly saught after collectors item. They are induvidually plated by SVD australia. The average person would loook twice at em though.

The white one is the GTS (1). The Red one is the GTS (2).

image6xt.jpg

the GTSR is an import coupe, which only a few hundered were made. They have a few extra things on them, including the RB20DET-R.. makes a little more power but not much. Very valuable and highlysought after. I dont know much about them, caue I barely see em, even on the internet.

Heres some pics of one.

http://images.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl=...6lr%3D%26sa%3DG

If anyone bought and seriously modded either of these cars, the R31 community would go after you in an angry mob :D

gts1's and 2's are really hot property among r31 enthusiasts - if u seen one for sale relativly cheap chibi - go and buy it cause they will get very expensive very soon

i prefer the gts2's mainly cause of the body

(we got a s3 exec at home - same body shape as the gts2's- very smooth looking - and nicer bonnet and nicer looking headlights)

ohh - and they didn't come with a diff chip - same chip just diff cam and bilstiens and extractors

there's a thread on here somewhere that has a whole debate about em - the deciding factor was a former tassie cop who drove them (they had them as cop cars there) said that they didn't - and he has driven a copy gts2 and it felt the same (ie - lumpier cam, extractors, zorst)

chibi - check out this link:

http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=10605.0

australian r31 gts1 and gts2 register compiled by owners and previous owners and people who no the people who own them (lol)

  • 3 weeks later...

gts1's and 2's are really hot property among r31 enthusiasts - if u seen one for sale relativly cheap chibi - go and buy it cause they will get very expensive very soon

i prefer the gts2's mainly cause of the body

(we got a s3 exec at home - same body shape as the gts2's- very smooth looking - and nicer bonnet and nicer looking headlights)

ohh - and they didn't come with a diff chip - same chip just diff cam and bilstiens and extractors

there's a thread on here somewhere that has a whole debate about em - the deciding factor was a former tassie cop who drove them (they had them as cop cars there) said that they didn't - and he has driven a copy gts2 and it felt the same (ie - lumpier cam, extractors, zorst)

GTS 2's were chipped, they had an additional computer piggy backed onto the stock ECUI.

Chibi, if you want to know anything about these cars, and where ther are cars for sale, the R31 site is your best bet. Unique cars magazine is also another good way to fiond a nice GTS. But you want to grab one fairly quickly, these cars are getting a lot of press attention of late, and are sneaking up in value. If you want any help at all, I have 3 of these cars, and a fairly good knowledge source. Would be glad to help you out with any info, please PM me any questions you have.

damn - i think i got own3d

oh well

so they were really chipped? interseting

well actually piggybacked - but the same sort of thing anyway

Soz to do that to you matey. They needed an extra bit of mapping to sort out the mixtures with the very lumpy cam in the GTS 2. And Nissan Australia had an agreement with Bosch, not to alter the original equipment ECU's, so that is why the piggyback happened instead of a power chip.

All in all the extra work only equated to abround 4-5 kilowatts at the wheels. With the different gearing (shorter diff ratio, taller gearbox) it wasn't really any faster. So was it really worth it? Having both of these cars, the white one is more fun to drive, its a blokier car than the red one. But the red one just has that really lumpy idle, and responsiveness that the white one, isn't lacking, but just isn't the same. The red one handles beautifully. I have never (and I mean never) driven a car that handles like my GTS 2 does. I have driven a lot of cars, and I haven't even driven a modified one that handles like this car. Not saying they are not out there, but I doubt you would find one, out of the factory that handled like these do. The cops in 1990 loved em, (there were 6 police cars made by Nissan Special Vehicles Division for the Vic police, 7 for the tassie police, and 7 fire cars as well, all GTS 2's mechanically, but stock bodies, apart from the Tassie ones which had the full body kit, wheels etc), and actually preferred them over their FE2 suspensioned Holden, and modded ford police cars.

As much as I say my GTS 1 is more fun to drive, thats probbaly because its more replacable (parts), than the GTS 2, and I am not as scared of driving it hard, coz if I bend it I can fix it, the red car is, and always will be my favourite, and that tends to be the common denominator, as reflected in the purchase price of both cars. You will pay double, or even triple for a nice GTS 2, over a nice GTS 1. But they are still great cars. The red ones will go down in history amongst R31 enthusiasts as being the pick of the crop though. I would like to say that is just my opinion, but it seems to be the majority vote.

Oh and by the way, you all gotta buy the december issue of unique cars, where you will see both my GTS's featured in Past Lane. Joe Kenwright and unique cars have done a feature on the SVD Silhouettes, and they used my babies for the photo shoot. Its out on the 16th December.

post-8526-1132660137.jpg

post-8526-1132660169.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you get any down time over Christmas, or have you had any since to play with this? Or have you given up and are trying to get yourself a second hand V8SC instead?
    • A random thought I had just before I hit "Submit on this post". If brake fluid, in a container in my garage that has never been opened goes bad after 18 months, why can I leave it in my car for 24 months in an "unsealed container"... Secondly, some other digging, and brake fluid manufacturers seem to be saying 5 year shelf life... Me thinks there line on 18 months for an unsealed bottle is pretty much horse shit marketing spin. Kind of like how if you drive a car and don't run a turbo timer your turbo and motor will die horribly...   Where I started on this though... Someone (me) started down a bit of a rabbit hole, I don't quite have the proper equipment to do Equilibrium Reflux boiling per the proper test standards. I did a little digging on YouTube, and this was the first video I found on someone attempting to "just boil it". This video isn't overly scientific, as we don't have a known reference for his test either. Inaccuracy in his equipment could have him reaching the 460 to 470f boiling point range in reality. In the video, using a laser temp gun, he claims his Dot3 that's been open in his florida garage for over a year gets to about 420 to 430 fahrenheit (215 to 221c) Doing some googling, I located an MSDS for that specific oil, and from new, it claims a dry boiling point of 460 to 470f. Unfortunately they don't list a wet boiling point for us to see how far it degraded toward its "wet" point. While watching it I was thinking "I wonder what the flash point is..." turns out its only 480f for that specific brake fluid....   As for testing the oil's resistance, I might not be able to accurately do that unfortunately. Resistance level will be quite a LOT higher than my system can read I suspect based on some research. However, I might be able to do it by measuring the current when I apply a specific voltage. I won't have an actual water % value, but I'll have some values I can compare between the multitude of fluids. I'll run some vague calculations later and see if I should be able to read any reliable amount of current. These calcs will be based on some values I've found for other oils, and see how close I'll need my terminals together. From memory I can get down to 1pA accuracy on the DMM. I don't think my IOT Power Tester has any better resolution.    
    • No, with a twin plate clutch flywheels and clutch pressure plate/friction disks go together. Only clutch where that isn't the case is the Uniclutch but they currently don't make a pull version for the Getrag R34, just some other cars. Personally the flywheel is as light as I'd want it to be. It already drops revs faster than I want to shift normally and I blip the throttle again to rev match on upshifts.
    • Are there any other lighter flywheels that can be used with nismo coppermix twinplate system? Id like to gave the revs pick up faster than oem
    • RB20/25 covers don’t have threaded fasteners stock like RB26 covers. They are blind rivets so I will need to drill out and tap threads. I bought some M4x6mm button heads and will report back once done if I chose correctly length wise.    have also got some loctite 
×
×
  • Create New...