Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

But can you really "set and forget"? I am still not sure that is true. I still would have thought your pressures would drop over time like with regular air - maybe not as fast due to less H2O gas. But I agree with your experiances at the race track SK because it matchs up with the physics.

This is only my opinion !! I believe that Nitrogen inflation is worth the measely $10 or so per corner as I understand that it's more stable temperature wise and has less of a tendancy to leach out over time ( based on things I've learned from 18 years in the aircraft industry ). Allowing these attributes are accurate, it's a small price to pay for a decent gain. Really, think about how much most of us spend on our cars and now think about $10 per corner ?!?!?! C'mon......

Yes, heavy commercial aircraft use nitrogen inflation in their tyres but also, it's very necessary considering that the tyres spend a large period of time in an enviroment of -35 deg C or colder and then get dropped out and incur extreme loads and often extreme temperatures.

I guess in the end, it's $40 and can't do any harm so.......why not try the nitrogen inflation for yourself and make your own judgement based on your findings. :D My 2 cents.

Gary do you know of any race cars that use nitrogen? It would be a pain in the arse to carry compressed nitrogen to each race meet.

Whereas I always seem to find air when I need it

Many, many guys use 100% nitrogen for the reasons I have posted above. A cylinder of 100% nitrogen from BOC costs less than $30, plus cylinder rental of course. When we were karting, one medium sized aluminium cylinder would last a whole year at least. Fits in the boot easily, makes pumping up tyres simple and fast, I have a cheap gas welding gauge kit for that purpose..

Note that some classes of racing don't allow nitrogen, but who would ever know?

The real trick is getting all of the air out of the tyre before you put the nitrogen in. I have a friend with a vaccum pump (air con refills) and we use that to create a partial vacuum before we fill the tyres up with nitrogen.

:) cheers :)

....

Note that some classes of racing don't allow nitrogen, but who would ever know?

....

Are you suggesting people cheat? :D

Fair point tho, how do they go about testing it? I mean in some forms of stock class racing it would make a fair difference.

meh no real difference I reckon if you get the tyre pressures OK and warm them properly on the warm up lap.

On the other hand Gary's car is a good 3/10ths quicker than mine so who knows :D

meh no real difference I reckon if you get the tyre pressures OK and warm them properly on the warm up lap.

On the other hand Gary's car is a good 3/10ths quicker than mine so who knows :)

Duncan, I never said...........well, you know what I never said.

The advantage I have found (in the classes where it is legal) is on a cold day you can not get the tyres up to full operating temperature in half a lap warm up. That's all you really get, particualry if the guys in front of you don't want you to warm up your tyres. The reverse logic applies on a hot day, late in the race. The nitrogen doesn't increase pressure as much, so you don't have to allow as much for the pressure increase.

An example of a tyre with a best pressure of 35 psi in an 8 lap race when filled with ambient air;

Out of the pits = 27 psi

End of warm up lap = 30 psi

End of lap 1 = 33 psi

End of lap 2 = 34 psi

End of lap 3 = 34 psi

End of lap 4 = 35 psi

End of lap 5 = 35 psi

End of lap 6 = 36 psi

End of lap 7 = 37 psi

End of lap 8 = 38 psi

After cool down lap = 35 psi

Compared to a tyre with a best pressure of 35 psi in an 8 lap race when filled with 100% nitrogen;

Out of the pits = 31 psi

End of warm up lap = 33 psi

End of lap 1 = 35 psi

End of lap 2 = 35 psi

End of lap 3 = 35 psi

End of lap 4 = 35 psi

End of lap 5 = 35 psi

End of lap 6 = 36 psi

End of lap 7 = 36 psi

End of lap 8 = 36 psi

After cool down lap = 35 psi

The big winners are lap 1, lap 2, lap 7 and lap 8. Faster at the start of the race, as the tyre is at best pressure earlier because you can leave the pits at a higher pressure. Plus faster at the end of the race as the tyre is not overheating due to excessive pressure, because when it overheats it generates even more pressure.

If you want an extreme example of this, listen to the drivers comments at Bathurst about how the car comes good during the session. During the day they constantly played around with tyre pressures, 1 psi here and 1 psi there, makes all the difference. Especailly important in the last session for the sprint to the flag.

I must be a caring sharing guy to give away secrets like that............... :lol:

:) cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid

I think there's another point to consider here. I have had some experience with aluminum alloy wheels developing corrossion on the rims and allowing air to leak out. If you fill the tyre with a more stable gas like Nitrogen you're not going to get oxide build up on your wheels, hence, you probably won't develope slow leaks on your precious track wheels while they sit around.

Gary do you know of any race cars that use nitrogen? It would be a pain in the arse to carry compressed nitrogen to each race meet.

Whereas I always seem to find air when I need it

We use it in the GT3. well we did this year. we use it to operate the on board jacks also. we just have a big cylinder full of the stuff. it's not such a pain really. it's easier than carrying a compressor!

hmmm, maybe with big enough tyres we could get the car to hover lol?

in all seriousness i don't know much about gas but i would think helium may be a bit volatile.

im getting mine done thismorning for $7.50 a tyre,plus,if i get a puncher or slow leak(need more air) i go back and get it filled for FREE.

thats at JAX tyres in blacktown.

edit,the guy who fitted my wheels told me this as my tyres are kinda close to my smic, he said Nitrogen keeps the tyres COOL(is this also true)?

Edited by RSTME
  • 3 years later...

Sorry to resurrect such an old thread but I read something recently that kind of relates to this.

The idea is that instead of using nitrogen in your tyres you use de-humidified air. It's a little strange the process to get it though...

Steps.

1. Turn your car on, have A/C as cold as possible blowing towards the floor

2. Deflate your tyres

3. Place compressor in your passenger foot well, close door as much as you can to try and keep air inside the car

4. Put air in tyres

5. Turn off your car

6. ???

7. Profit

Now, I don't know about you guys but I usually show up at most an hour before a track day, usually around the 30 min mark... I'm pretty sure if I tried this I'd miss half the day :sick:

Just food for thought though, might give it a go this weekend if I can find my tyre pressure gauge. Most likely I wont though :)

i used it speedway cars for yr's tyre is at its right preasure for the start of the race and dosent gain much extra preasure during the race .

as when just using air the preasure would be set 3 to 4 pounds lower to compansate the air heating up and the presure rising b ut at the start of the race ya preasures was wrong till the tyre heated up with the nitrogen you

knew the car would handle pretty much the same during the race

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: Tunehouse looked into the problem and identified a wiring issue between the camera unit and the connector. They managed to get it working , but did warn me at some point it will stop working again. From their perspective it is unserviceable and will need replacement. They did some research and found that the new replacement camera would be Approx $1400 supply only (their fitting cost would be $190) . They did provide the part number (28442-JL05B) and a quick google of the part number shows that these are rather expensive brand new (seemingly no longer in manufacture) for the places that still have them in stock, with the used option potentially presenting  the same issue down the track at some unknown point. They are happy for me to supply the part so that they can fit it. Decisions, decisions... I can definitely recommend Tunehouse (thankyou Vee37!). Cost for the diagnosis was as quoted  ($190) , car was ready on time and communication was top notch. Their workshop is super clean and modern, and there was plenty of car candy parked out the front on the day I went.   Would definitely go back.   
    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
×
×
  • Create New...