Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 254
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

As far as i know, yes, it will fit for you. There is one guy that is using an R33 kit.

Though, dont go ahead and cut a hole in the chassis too quickly, its easy to get a defect. Do what humble will do and use the kit/cooler etc, but get one pipe made custom to go under and then up to the cooler, like my pipes

  • 2 weeks later...

we fitted a 600x300x76 cooler to our stagea.

used a r33 piping kit with some of the standard stagea bends.

fitted up pretty well.

had to cut out sum of the support to make the cooler fit, but overall it wasn't that hard to do.post-25826-1141479214.jpg

Ian

we had the same problem with the drivers side, passenger side was easy

yea no need to cut a hole under the battery.

it took us bout 3 hrs to figure out which bends would go where on the drivers side for the best possible fit with no cutting needed.

only thing we had to do was chop some of the standard plumbing

don't have any pics at the moment but I could get out in the next couple of days and take a few for you.

was not that hard when we sat down and thought it out and then tried and tested several ways til we got it spot on.

Edited by Mum's Taxi

Have 90% finished installing my cooler today. I bought an R33 kit from just ja[ for $499 (bit of a bargain if you ask me). Still need to trim the fan then it will be complete.

I didn't bother cutting too much out of the support bar at this stage as I don't think I will really need it yet. Further down the track I will probably open it up again and chop away.

Only problem I had was the AC fan not fitting with the core there. I decided it will just be easier to buy a smaller thermo fan from the wreckers or something. AC isn't essential so I will worry about it later...

and some photos...

post-809-1141557276.jpgpost-809-1141557296.jpgpost-809-1141557316.jpg

Edited by Talej
Have 90% finished installing my cooler today. I bought an R33 kit from just ja[ for $499 (bit of a bargain if you ask me). Still need to trim the fan then it will be complete.

I didn't bother cutting too much out of the support bar at this stage as I don't think I will really need it yet. Further down the track I will probably open it up again and chop away.

Only problem I had was the AC fan not fitting with the core there. I decided it will just be easier to buy a smaller thermo fan from the wreckers or something. AC isn't essential so I will worry about it later...

and some photos...

post-809-1141557276.jpgpost-809-1141557296.jpgpost-809-1141557316.jpg

hey mate easiest option is to chop the front support bar abit to alow it to come forward and therefore keeping the air con fan etc in place. its not visable from outside with bumper on so cops cant defect u or nuthin, and its strong as hell and only holding the bumper.

hey mate easiest option is to chop the front support bar abit to alow it to come forward and therefore keeping the air con fan etc in place. its not visable from outside with bumper on so cops cant defect u or nuthin, and its strong as hell and only holding the bumper.

I didn't do it that way because then the brackets won't line up. Just easier to get a smaller fan.

talej

wat size cooler are you installing?

we installed a 600x300x76 cooler to our stag

and i don't remember havin that problem

as alexcim said you might be best tiltin the cooler

anyway i'll post some pics up this arvo of our engine bay and under drivers side for you humble..

Talej

have you cut under the battery?

can you get some pics of the piping from inside the engine bay and under the car on direvers side too??

listen to me, soo demanding..

PLEEEEASE

thanks

Ian

Yes the piping goes through a hole cut under the batter. I will get some photos for you later...

  • 1 year later...

Any one done a FMIC install with a front facing plenum?

im pretty keen to find out every thing i can, what and where i would need to cut etc please post up any pics you have and show me where the pipes would come through. Also if you could recomend a kit to suit a stagea with a front facing plenum that would be TOPS cheers guys and thanks for any help

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The old manifold was quite under the GTR strut brace.  The new manifold is quite [unknown] the GTR strut brace. The GTR strut brace was needed to clear the bonnet vents. The Old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. The old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, and the new bonnet without vents. But I am hoping the GTR strut brace clears the new manifold :p
    • On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
    • This seems like a pointless exercise. There is no E30 availability. Ongoing availability of E85 should not be assumed. Flex-fuel is the only sensible approach, so you can use E85 when and where you can get it, 98 when that's al you can get, and anything in between as you fill it up and drain it down. And if that means replacing the pumps, fitting a flex capable sensor/ECU/whatever has to be done to these Renault shitboxen, then.....so be it?
×
×
  • Create New...