Jump to content
SAU Community

The Intercooler Thread

AlexCim

By AlexCim,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Tommy G Collaborator

Tommy G

Posted
Posted

Here are some pics of my final FMIC installation. I got the car back from Springy Motors earlier this week and am absolutely stoked with the outcome (see dyno thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4719149 )

I removed the front bar, as I wanted to replace the black mesh inserts to 'hide' the cooler a bit. You can see what the 'Cooling Pro' Stealth FMIC looks like behind the bar here. For $150 I had George at Springy Motors fabricate some brackets to allow the bottom cooler mounts to attach to the frame (the brackets provided in the kit don't attach to anything)

I hand-sanded the angle-grinder trimming behind the bar, and did a dry fit with the mesh held in with masking tape. I had to trim the cooler piping clamp bolts with a grinder to make some room, and when I was happy with the dry-fit, used some 'Sikaflex' glue purchased at Autobarn to fix the mesh in place. I put a few bricks on it overnight to make a good bond.

I then trimmed away excess glue, re-attached the front bar, and did up all the bolts holding all the undercarriage plastics in place. All in all pretty happy with how the whole thing turned out. It looks pretty tidy, and turned out to be quite 'stealthy' after all. My advice for anyone considering a Cooling Pro Stealth on a S2 would be to just budget around $150 to have it professionally fitted - you'll still be a whole lot in front of buying a Greddy kit!

post-52103-1247992138_thumb.jpg post-52103-1247992383_thumb.jpg post-52103-1247992706_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 254
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Tommy G Collaborator

Tommy G

Posted
Posted
Looks great Tommy. How much did you have to trim off the front bar to get it all to fit??

Hey Sabbai,

I would estimate I trimmed about 60-70mm from the inner vents. Basically, (on a 'Dayz' bar anyway) you need to make the inner two vents flush with the outer vents. I'm not sure why the inner vents extend further into the engine bay than the outers in the first place, but they've gotta go. You could trim a bit more off to allow a bit more room, but I didn't want to make those vertical 'struts' either side of the numberplate any thinner than required.

PS

Very nice install Tangles! That looks seriously tough.

SABBAi Grand Master

SABBAi

Posted
Posted
Hey Sabbai,

I would estimate I trimmed about 60-70mm from the inner vents. Basically, (on a 'Dayz' bar anyway) you need to make the inner two vents flush with the outer vents. I'm not sure why the inner vents extend further into the engine bay than the outers in the first place, but they've gotta go. You could trim a bit more off to allow a bit more room, but I didn't want to make those vertical 'struts' either side of the numberplate any thinner than required.

PS

Very nice install Tangles! That looks seriously tough.

Thanks Tommy. My Dayz Edition arrives late August and I'm wanting to get a cooler into it, but I didn't want to hack the front bar up. I like the way you've fitted it, as it looks to be done very well.

Looks good Tangles.

rx7gt Contributor

rx7gt

Posted
Posted
This is how i did it. I cut 1cm out of the lower part of the front bar, and got no problem at all with the clearance. :devil:

662460_ygzpf6.jpg

662463_4qhl67.jpg

664309_w7jyjc.jpg

664327_qtu2jz.jpg

Nice install guys ..... just thought I would say to all stagea owners thinking of putting on a big front mount I/C

Take note !!! make sure your radiator is in good condition!!! get it cleaned or fixed!! as stagea's and r33's only have a standard 1 core radiator!!(many other sports cars have three or four core radiators). And if radiator is half full of junk(As japanease dont like putting coolant in cars) it is alredy putting stress on motor/cooling system then if you reduce air flow with a front mount then overheating/extra/engine stress could result blown head etc or worse big $$$ So for the cost of around a $100 or so to get your radiator rodded/ cleaned out it's cheap and could possibly save you heaps. Just trying to save stag owners $$$ Trust me fixing head gasket on stag is a F***Bitch of a job. Stag on!! ;)

Total cost below 5000sek (approx 750 AUD)

stageaharts Community Regular

stageaharts

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

just thought I'd add my (Very recent) experiences on the front mount issue. I ordered a Just Jap "C34 Stealth" kit on Monday, received it very happily on Wednesday. To start of with, the front mount is now fitted and looks fantastic. The car boosts stronger, faster and higher, or so it feels :blush:. Fit of pipes up to stock set-up was absoloutely perfect, and the core looks a treat. The one gripe I have with the kit was the fittings (Silicon was fine. Hose clamps were great though!). To be honest, the brackets and fixings supplied with kit fit absoloutely nowhere. For example: It was necessary to add another 40mm to the supplied spacer lengths in order for the intercooler to sit off of the fan unit. This in turn meant I had to replace the supplied mounting stud with a longer unit to suit the new spacer lengths. When pairing the supplied nuts with bolts of same diameter, some of the nuts would not thread onto the bolts, any of them. The supplied brackets seemed to attach to nothing whatsoever, in any configuration (Nth to Sth orientation vs. East to West orientation.) which meant I need to purchase new angles and fabricate them to suit the application. To tell you the truth, the problem solving process and fabrication was an entertaining surprise, but not an anticipated one :P

In short, if you purchase the same JJR C34 Stealth Intercooler Kit, expect to:

-Buy new fixings, spacers and brackets: ~$50

-Extra fabrication time: ~1hr

N.B.: This was fitted to a 1998 Series 1 Stagea, "Dayz Edition". No trimming of the Front Bar was required :down:

Big thanks to Chris for the 8mm driver and his time tightening clamps and fitting the bar!

harts.

  • 1 month later...
DaveB Mentor

DaveB

Posted
Posted (edited)

Nice work Tangles! That cleaned up pretty nicely after the gaping hole I saw in the bottom of your front bar at a cruise once, and the intake pipes held in with cableties! That's a very nice looking Stag.

PS Where did you get that lower-lower-lip-spoiler?? That's awesome

Edited by DaveB
  • 5 weeks later...
D3RV Collaborator

D3RV

Posted
Posted

Here's mine after throwing on the Blits front bar + sideskirts, and a HDI GT Spec R32/33/34 FMIC.

As will most coolers I had to do the following:

Cut a hole in the battery tray,

Trim the fan blades,

Cut out 2cm of the intrusion bar

Trim a fair bit of the front bar.

Create slightly larger holes where the factory piping went through (under the air filter)

I didn't move the transmission cooler, but if I relocated it, the cooler would most definitely sit better.

post-9646-1254113248_thumb.jpg

post-9646-1254113278_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R34 GTT RB rough idle problem with weird RPM gauge fluctuations

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Add to this... What blew the fuse too? If a circuit feeding power to the coils was blown, how were the coils even functioning to let the car start?   There is some seriously wrong wiring in that car for certain, and I'm betting there is some melted cables somewhere, but I can't explain the 30v either, unless there is something back feeding on that power line that has a dodgy power system and the electronics are giving it hell.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 GTT RB rough idle problem with weird RPM gauge fluctuations

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This is typically the case with such threads. What I cannot quite get my head around is where a reading above 12V (or 13.8 or 14.x or whatever the maximum achievable voltage might actually be in that specific car) comes from. 25V or 30V should be completely impossible. There's no way to create it. Hard to answer that question. It will literally depend on whether the current tune relies on the values as set. I'd guess it probably does. ie, the real base pressure being 49 means that the flowrate through the injectors will be higher than if it was 43.5. The Haltech's modelling should be handling that, but because it thinks the pressure is only 43.5, then..... I dunno. It should be thinking that it will be injecting less fuel with each pulse duration than is actually happening. So, something is definitely not-as-it-should-be, but specifically what that is is beyond my abilities to imagine. Someone like Dose who spends more time with Haltechs might have a better thought.
    • Joni Boi
      R34 GTT RB rough idle problem with weird RPM gauge fluctuations

      By Joni Boi · Posted

      Bit of a late reply here as me and my wife have been really busy with new born twins. I finally got these issues fixed and it was something really stupid that caused all of this 🤦‍♂️... After alot of mucking around with trying to figure out what is causing these issues, I back probed one of the R35 coils on the power 12v supply, with the engine running it got 25v! And I thought, hang on..., this isn't normal. Measured my battery with the engine running to check for over charge from the alternator and it wasn't that. So then I dissconnected the R35 PRP coil harness and backprobed the power supply on the engine loom where the ignition coil harness connects, with the key on ignition (engine off) it measured 30v! So then I had to trace where that high voltage was coming from and it lead me to the brown relay "ECM & IGN coil relay" inside the cabin next to the ECU on the passanger wall. This relay feeds power to the ECM and ignition coils. Tried swapping it with another same relay. nah still 30v.. coming from the 2 green/white wires in the brown relay. So then I set my multi meter to the beep continuity mode and probed every fuse on the fuse box inside the cabin to try and find this high voltage power source. Wasn't any of the fuses inside the cabin. Then probed all the fuses in the engine bay and BAM, got my power source that was a 10AMP fuse called "ENG CONT". Pulled the fuse out, and what do you know... it was blown. 🤦‍♂️  So then I quickly replaced it with a new 10AMP fuse, started the car and yeah haha [insert extreme face palm]... The RPM blimping thing went away, car idles smoothly now like what it was before. I swear! I checked all my fuses with my test light twice before I created this forum thread. I think, maybe because one side of that faulty 10A fuse lit up on my test light, I must have thought it was still ok and not blown. But now I know to have both sides light up on the test light when checking fuses... I hate diagnosing electricals.... I'd take mechanical problems over electrical problems any day🤣. Drove the car around my suburb with the engine up to operating temp and it runs fine like before. However, I notice that my fuel pressure is still at 49psi. So I'm thinking this must be normal for my system as I've upgraded the stock fuel pump to a Walbro 255L/h with a constant 12v mod.  But anyway, I'm just glad to have my daily back on the road! Thanks everyone for the replies on this thread, all sorted now! One thing I want to ask you tuner guys, my base fuel pressure on the haltech main settings are set to 43.5psi from default (my tuner must have not checked the fuel pressure maybe when tuning my car?). Do I set it to what it actually is idling on at 49psi? Or just leave it ("if it aint broke, don't fix it/leave it")?  
    • Kinkstaah
      Import insurance in 2025

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The max they would go for me is 50.
    • Duncan
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By Duncan · Posted

      That cannot have been a fun set of drilling. The stock "baffle" looks identical to rb26, I just cut fuel cell foam to fit the full length under the baffle.
×
×
  • Create New...