The Intercooler Thread

[[[d a n n y]]]

im also running their M35 HDi kit

first production version

it's a good kit

[d1_drifter]

Has anyone had any luck fitting a front mount to a S2 Stagea with a Dayz front bar, without cutting the reo bar??

Any help would be appreciated,

Model, Size, etc, would be great.

Thankyou in advance

My reo needed a fair bit of cutting and front bar needed a fair amount too with my GReddy M-Spec.

[ssshonky]

Just ordered the Just Jap Stealth kit. After reading this thread it seems that it should work pretty nicely.

Our Stagea has the Dolphin front bar so I am thinking that will give us a bit more room to work with as well as less obstructions for airflow.

Fingers crossed it gets here before the Xmas break.

[QWK32]

Just ordered the Just Jap Stealth kit. After reading this thread it seems that it should work pretty nicely.

Our Stagea has the Dolphin front bar so I am thinking that will give us a bit more room to work with as well as less obstructions for airflow.

Fingers crossed it gets here before the Xmas break.

Sean, its a pretty easy install, you need to trim a little out of the reo, i had to trim abit out of the dayz front bar but as you say, a dolphin bar should give you plenty of room. the only issues i found were:

- the bottom mounting brackets were no good, i had to make up my own, used the ones they gave me but had to add to them so they would work.

- i mounted the top centre bolt to the bonnet latch support, there is already a couple of holes in the support, i just used one of those holes along with a long bolt and spacer. if you use the spacer supplied in the kit you may have an issue with the bottom of the intercooler hitting the a/c thermo fan, i used a longer spacer and had no issues with the intercooler fouling on the thermo fan or the oil cooler (S2).

- the bottom black plastic engine tray cover bit, the return pipe stops you from putting a couple of the bolts back it to hold this up, and if you mount the intercooler too low you may have to cut a section of it out for the return pipe.

- not really an issue but the horns need to be bent back a tad to clear the intercooler.

- the outside air temp sensor needs to be moved, i just cable tied it up to the thermo fan shroud.

apart from that the pipe work itself was good, easy to line up with the stock pipes. there are some holes in the end of the chasis rail for the return pipe mount to bolt to.

here's a pic of mine without the reo

and here is a pic of how i mounted it up on the bottom. i used the 2 supplied brackets on the one side, just had to join them together and drill a couple of holes, the made up something the same for the other side out of some steel i had here at home. i've since tidied them up a little.

good luck with the install

Edited December 14, 2009 by QWK32

[ssshonky]

Ok well the JJR kit arrived last night , was going to start on it today ( this morning ) but had a few things to take care of at work so I might start at around mid-day. I had a really quick look at things last night and looks like I am going to have to hack the front bar a bit. What are the best tools to cut that kinda plastic with? I have a Dremel with a cut off wheel but thats going to take AAAGES! Other than that I was thinking a jigsaw with a blade suitable for plastic might be faster way of doing things.

I will make sure I post some pics.

[QWK32]

I used a freash sharp blade in a stanley knife and it did the trick, just got to be slow and steady with your cut. I also used a small razor blade to get in the tight spots.

Be carefull with a jigsaw, you may lift the paint, I'd suggest masking tape on the are you are cutting to help. Also don't use too small pitch on a jigsaw blade. If it's too small the plasic just melts and sets in the cut after you pass.

[ssshonky]

ok well got home, ripped off the factory cooler off ( More on that in a min !) , took the front bar off etc etc.

Now- the Just Jap intercooler kit is definately not a direct fit. The oil cooler fouls it and the thermo fan comes pretty close too ( this has been addressed before. Also in our particular instance it fouls on the front bar on the right hand side vent as you are looking at the car. My thoughts were to put the numberplate over the vent so that it is out of the way of the airflow into the cooler and it will also cover any hacking I need to do for the pipes to clear the vent

I need to find a new home for the horns and also the oil cooler. Hey whats the dealio with relocating oil coolers? anything to be looking at , ie any traps for young playerS?

The weird thing is that the factory cooler was oily on the OUTLET of the cooler and clean on the inlet of the cooler??

WTF ? does that make sense to anyone else? where does the oil come from in the space of passing thru the cooler!?

The return pipe on the new cooler hangs a bit lower than the lip on the front bar - so we will have to mind that when we go parking etc.

There is some jiggering around to be done where the factory pipes meet the new cooler pipes - I need a few extra inches and should be good.

[scotty nm35]

The oil condenses inside the cooler which is probably why you are seeing it at the outlet.

Do you have a catch can? You really don't want oil in there.

[RBPOWA-(TJ)]

yeah both my coolers where full of oil hehe.

Metho/Kero nice flush out, now the core is nice and clean

[ssshonky]

I might need to move the factory oil cooler, whats the deal with that? anything to look out for?

[SUBL1ME]

So has anyone done an aftermarket smic set up? Is there such a thing?

[KiwiRS4T]

Yes, if you do a search you should find a thread with a comparison of various aftermarket options such as Trust, Nismo and ARC. Another possibility is to use the space for a water to air intercooler but i don't think anyone here has done it on a Stagea as yet. The simplest upgrade (see the DIY sticky) is the S2 or GTT smic into the S1.

[ssshonky]

Ok - Snag #1 !!

I dont know if its some kinda crazy ingenuity on Just Japs behalf , but to cut a long stoy short the factory intercooler pipework for the Stagea seems to be somewhere between 2.5 inch and 2.25 inch ! WTF?

Like no sh1t hey.. I went to replace the factory elbows ( near where the Air box used to sit ) to get a bit more length to mate up the Just Jap pipe work , and got some 2.5 inch 90 Deg Elbows , brought them home and BaawBAAWWW .. the fit was just much too loose, I tried clamping it down with a clamp and was just not 100% happy with it, just seemed to bunch up a bit.

So went back to the guy ( THANK YOU to CHAMP from SilviaWA ) and got some 2.25 inch elbow bends and yeh.. its going to be like fitting a grand piano down a flight of stairs ( TIGHT ) but I would prefer to try and get a good tight fit rather than stress about it leaking while its getting Nistuned.

Now dont get me wrong. I am not bagging Just Jap , not by any means. I am just trying to get the information out there for others that are going down the same path. I think it would have been good if Just Jap priced the cooler kit a bit higher and included all the replacement pipework.

Anyways having driven for god knows how long this afternoon I am not going to work on it anymore , but will post more information about this sometime between xmas and NYE!

[ssshonky]

Water to air = SIIIIIIIKKK!!!!!! expensive but pure Porn!!

Yes, if you do a search you should find a thread with a comparison of various aftermarket options such as Trust, Nismo and ARC. Another possibility is to use the space for a water to air intercooler but i don't think anyone here has done it on a Stagea as yet. The simplest upgrade (see the DIY sticky) is the S2 or GTT smic into the S1.

[KiwiRS4T]

There's a Trust SMIC for sale in the skyline part section. The guy reckons he made 300kw with it (which i think is pushing it a bit) but it would be a good upgrade for anyone wanting to make up to 240 or may 270kw at a stretch. I used to have one and it was great. They are a bit fiddly to fit as the brackets don't line up but the hoses do and still a lot easier than fitting a fmic.

[ssshonky]

Started her up last night , didnt hear any leaks etc so all must be well.

Though I dont know if I am paranoid or what but I could detect a slightly rough idle, but having said that the car has been on stands for a while so I guess its hardly surprising.

you can see the new oil cooler peeking up there

[KiwiRS4T]

My similar return pipe fmic. I have cut out all the plastic where the number plate was. Would probably look better without the bit of grill that I stuck in there but its more stealthy this way

[Blizzerd]

http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?p...&featured=Y

check this out, looks great, glad i waited to buy my cooler, as soon as my sprinter sells i am getting this one!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[KiwiRS4T]

That will work - few people have them already (Blitz is similar but slightly better). Handy that its painted black - I always paint mine black anyway.

[Blizzerd]

mmm but how much of my bar do i need to cut, i might try and get a 2nd bar, i want to keep my driving lights, but a big cooler in the front would look better...