Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 254
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Has anyone had any luck fitting a front mount to a S2 Stagea with a Dayz front bar, without cutting the reo bar??

Any help would be appreciated,

Model, Size, etc, would be great.

Thankyou in advance

My reo needed a fair bit of cutting and front bar needed a fair amount too with my GReddy M-Spec.

  • 1 month later...

Just ordered the Just Jap Stealth kit. After reading this thread it seems that it should work pretty nicely.

Our Stagea has the Dolphin front bar so I am thinking that will give us a bit more room to work with as well as less obstructions for airflow.

Fingers crossed it gets here before the Xmas break.

Just ordered the Just Jap Stealth kit. After reading this thread it seems that it should work pretty nicely.

Our Stagea has the Dolphin front bar so I am thinking that will give us a bit more room to work with as well as less obstructions for airflow.

Fingers crossed it gets here before the Xmas break.

Sean, its a pretty easy install, you need to trim a little out of the reo, i had to trim abit out of the dayz front bar but as you say, a dolphin bar should give you plenty of room. the only issues i found were:

- the bottom mounting brackets were no good, i had to make up my own, used the ones they gave me but had to add to them so they would work.

- i mounted the top centre bolt to the bonnet latch support, there is already a couple of holes in the support, i just used one of those holes along with a long bolt and spacer. if you use the spacer supplied in the kit you may have an issue with the bottom of the intercooler hitting the a/c thermo fan, i used a longer spacer and had no issues with the intercooler fouling on the thermo fan or the oil cooler (S2).

- the bottom black plastic engine tray cover bit, the return pipe stops you from putting a couple of the bolts back it to hold this up, and if you mount the intercooler too low you may have to cut a section of it out for the return pipe.

- not really an issue but the horns need to be bent back a tad to clear the intercooler.

- the outside air temp sensor needs to be moved, i just cable tied it up to the thermo fan shroud.

apart from that the pipe work itself was good, easy to line up with the stock pipes. there are some holes in the end of the chasis rail for the return pipe mount to bolt to.

here's a pic of mine without the reo

post-34711-1260775937_thumb.jpg

and here is a pic of how i mounted it up on the bottom. i used the 2 supplied brackets on the one side, just had to join them together and drill a couple of holes, the made up something the same for the other side out of some steel i had here at home. i've since tidied them up a little.

post-34711-1260776120_thumb.jpg

good luck with the install :)

Edited by QWK32
  • 2 weeks later...

Ok well the JJR kit arrived last night , was going to start on it today ( this morning ) but had a few things to take care of at work so I might start at around mid-day. I had a really quick look at things last night and looks like I am going to have to hack the front bar a bit. What are the best tools to cut that kinda plastic with? I have a Dremel with a cut off wheel but thats going to take AAAGES! Other than that I was thinking a jigsaw with a blade suitable for plastic might be faster way of doing things.

I will make sure I post some pics.

I used a freash sharp blade in a stanley knife and it did the trick, just got to be slow and steady with your cut. I also used a small razor blade to get in the tight spots.

Be carefull with a jigsaw, you may lift the paint, I'd suggest masking tape on the are you are cutting to help. Also don't use too small pitch on a jigsaw blade. If it's too small the plasic just melts and sets in the cut after you pass.

ok well got home, ripped off the factory cooler off ( More on that in a min !) , took the front bar off etc etc.

Now- the Just Jap intercooler kit is definately not a direct fit. The oil cooler fouls it and the thermo fan comes pretty close too ( this has been addressed before. Also in our particular instance it fouls on the front bar on the right hand side vent as you are looking at the car. My thoughts were to put the numberplate over the vent so that it is out of the way of the airflow into the cooler and it will also cover any hacking I need to do for the pipes to clear the vent

I need to find a new home for the horns and also the oil cooler. Hey whats the dealio with relocating oil coolers? anything to be looking at , ie any traps for young playerS?

The weird thing is that the factory cooler was oily on the OUTLET of the cooler and clean on the inlet of the cooler??

WTF ? does that make sense to anyone else? where does the oil come from in the space of passing thru the cooler!?

The return pipe on the new cooler hangs a bit lower than the lip on the front bar - so we will have to mind that when we go parking etc.

There is some jiggering around to be done where the factory pipes meet the new cooler pipes - I need a few extra inches and should be good.

post-36321-1261564033_thumb.jpg

post-36321-1261564061_thumb.jpg

post-36321-1261564095_thumb.jpg

Yes, if you do a search you should find a thread with a comparison of various aftermarket options such as Trust, Nismo and ARC. Another possibility is to use the space for a water to air intercooler but i don't think anyone here has done it on a Stagea as yet. The simplest upgrade (see the DIY sticky) is the S2 or GTT smic into the S1.

Ok - Snag #1 !!

I dont know if its some kinda crazy ingenuity on Just Japs behalf , but to cut a long stoy short the factory intercooler pipework for the Stagea seems to be somewhere between 2.5 inch and 2.25 inch ! WTF?

Like no sh1t hey.. I went to replace the factory elbows ( near where the Air box used to sit ) to get a bit more length to mate up the Just Jap pipe work , and got some 2.5 inch 90 Deg Elbows , brought them home and BaawBAAWWW .. the fit was just much too loose, I tried clamping it down with a clamp and was just not 100% happy with it, just seemed to bunch up a bit.

So went back to the guy ( THANK YOU to CHAMP from SilviaWA ) and got some 2.25 inch elbow bends and yeh.. its going to be like fitting a grand piano down a flight of stairs ( TIGHT ) but I would prefer to try and get a good tight fit rather than stress about it leaking while its getting Nistuned.

Now dont get me wrong. I am not bagging Just Jap , not by any means. I am just trying to get the information out there for others that are going down the same path. I think it would have been good if Just Jap priced the cooler kit a bit higher and included all the replacement pipework.

Anyways having driven for god knows how long this afternoon I am not going to work on it anymore , but will post more information about this sometime between xmas and NYE!

Water to air = SIIIIIIIKKK!!!!!! expensive but pure Porn!!

Yes, if you do a search you should find a thread with a comparison of various aftermarket options such as Trust, Nismo and ARC. Another possibility is to use the space for a water to air intercooler but i don't think anyone here has done it on a Stagea as yet. The simplest upgrade (see the DIY sticky) is the S2 or GTT smic into the S1.

There's a Trust SMIC for sale in the skyline part section. The guy reckons he made 300kw with it (which i think is pushing it a bit) but it would be a good upgrade for anyone wanting to make up to 240 or may 270kw at a stretch. I used to have one and it was great. They are a bit fiddly to fit as the brackets don't line up but the hoses do and still a lot easier than fitting a fmic.

Started her up last night , didnt hear any leaks etc so all must be well.

Though I dont know if I am paranoid or what but I could detect a slightly rough idle, but having said that the car has been on stands for a while so I guess its hardly surprising.

you can see the new oil cooler peeking up there :/

post-36321-1262225725_thumb.jpg

post-49463-1262584166_thumb.jpgMy similar return pipe fmic. I have cut out all the plastic where the number plate was. Would probably look better without the bit of grill that I stuck in there but its more stealthy this way ;)
  • 10 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...