Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

with your usb/serial adaptor you should have drivers that come with it, that when installed will make a virtual com port (usually com4). is the issue that its not showing up as a com port at all? or that its showing up as somelike like com5+?

see attached image about how i can change my settings with my one via the control panel->system (device manager) thing, if thats what you're after

post-4553-1132365696.jpg

Edited by NewKleer
  • Replies 91
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  NewKleer said:
the com port dropdown (in calumsult) should list available com ports in it?

The usual painful com port problems, I never have any joy with them.

Have to restart the laptop every time I try something, so time consuming.

Plus the batery is now flat.

I can't get the Calumsult to see the ECU. Just to check that the interface is working OK, I have;

Solid red LED

Bright yellow LED until engine is running, then it goes dull, with an accasional flash

Green flashes at all times when the engine is running

:P cheers :D

Edited by Sydneykid

once ive confirmed more are available (hopefully tonight or tomorrow), just pm me when ur sure about order - payment is as stated in the first post, either bank deposit or paypal - if u dont use internet banking then u can go into whichever bank is more convenient (stg/anz, let me know in pm) and ask to deposit money into the account (with details i give you).

then ill normally get the money by the next day (as long as its done before end of previous business day) and can normally send it out that day (or the next) and you should receive it the following day (if ur inside express post network). advantage of paypal is its instant and would mean if its done early enough in the day, that i can send it out that day

2 will be $94 (if sent to same address) or $97 with paypal

Edited by NewKleer
  Sydneykid said:
I can't get the Calumsult to see the ECU.  Just to check that the interface is working OK, I have;

Solid red LED

Bright yellow LED until engine is running, then it goes dull, with an accasional flash

Green flashes at all times when the engine is running

theoretically (and checking with a bench ecu):

red on, green/yellow off (doing yellow wire bypass in construction)

open calumsult, choose com4 and click open com port - yellow and green flash then go back off (getting ecu number)

switch to gauges screen, turn switch to on, and yellow flashes once, then green is on constantly

some more kits are available now, see the main post

my brothers gonna have a shot at constructing some, if that goes well then assembled ones will be available for those who dont wish to construct them themselves - no promises yet though (depends how long they take to construct etc). if that goes ahead, id guess around $70 for those

thanks! thats just what i always wanted :(

now if only i had a consult capable car! (im casually looking at the moment now for something cheap with a consult capable sr20det/rb20det so i can get some more exciting projects going)

Edited by NewKleer

I'd like a pre-constructed one ASAP please, when/if you can organise it. I am happy to pay a little extra if you can get it to me very soon :) Thanks.

  NewKleer said:
theoretically (and checking with a bench ecu):

red on, green/yellow off (doing yellow wire bypass in construction)

open calumsult, choose com4 and click open com port - yellow and green flash then go back off (getting ecu number)

switch to gauges screen, turn switch to on, and yellow flashes once, then green is on constantly

Thanks for the extra bits, it now works perfectly.

:) cheers :D

  Nightcrawler said:
I'd like a pre-constructed one ASAP please, when/if you can organise it. I am happy to pay a little extra if you can get it to me very soon :D Thanks.

ive got a new group buy thread for a limited number of assembled interfaces. at this stage i hope to have 10 available, but obviously demand for these vs kits will determine how many of the 20 (in which 10 are listed as up to number 32. here) will be available for each

ive added u to list in that thread, ill let u know when the first is available, should be sometime this week. if you want to make payment before its confirmed (one is ready, but needs cable done), then pm me with bank preference (if any) and ill pass on dd details.

Peter

my pre-made consult arrived today - not even 24 hours after ordering it. Amazing service, and an amazing product. Awesome work!!!! EVERYBODY NEEDS one of these!

sent a couple more out today, only a few left now.

note that after 33., there may be up to 2 more, but then thats it - ive got no plans at this stage of extending the group buy any further.

excellent to hear!

seems i underestimated everyone here, as i guessed that maybe 1/3 to 1/2 of the people who get a kit would have some issue with construction they wouldnt be able to figure out, but overall its gone quite well :D

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...