13.4 second 1/4 for your 'stockish' R33. (A how to guide).

[benm]

Nice very nice

[predator]

i agree with no go with the burnout on street tyres - just burning money.. did it first time, but after that didn't bother too much.. but there is no point, as the compound isn't soft enough and need warming up to become truly "sticky" like proper slicks. I definitely didn't noitce any improvement.

In fact, with street tyres may be better of leaving them not warmed up. They also were sticking water on the burnout bit - on street tyres thats just gonna make them slippery

good time MFX_R33!

[NismoR34]

i have heard that it looks like water, but in fact it isnt, some stuff to help traction? VHT?

why would they use water anyways - that would be silly.

they cancel drags if its raining so i dont get it?

cool about the street tyre / no burnout thing - cause i dont wanna do a burnout anyways...leave that for the doorslammers and muzza's etc

[EnricoPalazzo]

They use "water" so that the road doesnt get ruined by the constant burnouts.

[DennisRB30]

It also less stress on the "real" drag cars when they have to start a burnout with massive slicks. Stops them launching instead of spinning the wheels.

[whatsisname]

Water in the 'burnout area' is mostly to prevent drivetrain shock loading. The rev's required to spin the rears (especially slicks) on a dry track could potential cause damage. Hence water is used to ease the load, & rev's needed.

And as DennisRB30 posted above - Big slicks need temp to hook up well. You don't want those slicks hooking up during the warm up burnout!

No burnout on street tyres - hmmm? I still prefer a small burnout (& I mean very minor) You certainly need some heat on semi-comp R compound rubber or they will spin wildly on launch (well mine do - badly!)

4500rpm launch - no burnout - massive w/spin

4500rpm launch - small burnout - hooked up nicely, until the clutch cried enough.

[riggaP]

whatisname: what mods you got?

[giz01]

I do a very very small burnout actually more lie a spin or 2 of the tyres after the water which i drive around just to get rid of any dirt, grass or water that maybe on the tyres not to heat them.

This seemed to work very well for me & also for my mates auto 300zx which ran a best of 12.56 & best mph of 115mph that has only 210rwkw's using std turbos & intercoolers, injectors, fuel pump & only mod to cpu is speed limiter removed & rev cut 500rpm higher!

[whatsisname]

riggaP,

I've posted my full mod's list a few times on here I think? Here goes again

"Internals are untouched. The turbo is a plain bearing T3/T4 combo using new (at the time) Garrett components. Exact spec’s I don't know unfortunately T04E or T04B compressor - 0.64A/R turbine housing? I'm only guessing with this info though.

The turbo combo was selected & fitted by Vince Rigoli, & built by Precision Turbocharger’s in Sydney.

The 257rwkw was on the Tilbrook dyno. Tim (ex-RPM PC head honco) & Martin Donnon did the tuning of the LT12 Microtech.

Here’s a “full” listing of all current mod’s (warning – there’s plenty of ricey ones in there )

MODS

Trust exhaust system & dump pipe

K&N pod / CAI / Custom airbox(h/shield)

T3/T4 Garrett turbo

Adjustable cam gear (4' retard - exhaust only)

Custom FMIC

Custom inlet piping (nil AFM)

Samco silicon hoses

16" DC thermo fan

HKS EVC

Microtech LT12 ECU

Microtech LT series 2 line handset

Bosch '044 fuel pump

Malpassi RR adjustable reg ( increased base pressure)

NGK BKR7EVX plugs

Oil catch can, braided lines & anodised fittings

Braided & blue silicon lines throughout eng' bay

GFB "Basic" BOV (flows more CFM, & is quieter than, most “look @ me” loud valves”)

Trust oil cap / rad' cap

Anodised & stainless fasteners throughout eng' bay

Xtreme 9puck cushion button ceramic clutch

2400lbs pressure plate

F17x8 R17X9 Volk wheels

Bridgestone RE540S semi-comp tyres 235/45/17 255/40/17

Optional s/skirt kit, GTR front bar/grill

Unknown origin rear wing

EBC Greenstuff brake pads + Motul RBF600 fluid

King Springs (30mm lower)

Whiteline front strutbrace

Whiteline s/bars

Whiteline camber kit

Whiteline rear sub-frame align/lock kit

Autometer boost gauge in 'A' pillar pod

Pivot shift light on the 'A' pillar

Trust g/knob & Momo pedal set

Momo Race wheel & HICAS boss kit

Leather re-trim (handbrake, g/boot etc...)

Optima Yellow Top D34 650CCA dry cell battery

Boot mounted battery isolator & new battery cabling

Numerous other minor bits'n'pieces

Blah blah blah………"

The dyno figure doesn't really mean much. The drag strip info is what I'm more interested in.

[whatsisname]

Perfect example of "take no notice of dyno figures" (apart from tuning) 210rwkw & it runs 115mph - That's either the lightest Z32 300ZX TT around or it's making very good power!

Mind you having visited Willowbank a few times (& watched TRY09 run) I can see how people get top ET's & TS's there! The track there is bloody awesome :uh-huh: I only wish we had the same quality of track & the backing here in Adelaide When TRY09 & the Subzero guys came down for the 4,6 & Rotary Nat's try as Brett might he couldn't get it to hook up @ all on the AIR drag strip. Now I know TRY09 spun like crazy even @ Willowbank but not the whole length of the strip like AIR!

Originally posted by giz01

my mates auto 300zx which ran a best of 12.56 & best mph of 115mph that has only 210rwkw's using std turbos & intercoolers, injectors, fuel pump & only mod to cpu is speed limiter removed & rev cut 500rpm higher!

[riggaP]

Originally posted by predator666

Most of the stuff came on my car.. but if u added them up prolly $6000-$7000 or so read back a page for the full list. 0.3 is a reasonable difference.. and 1 second is a massive difference in terms of what you need to do to your car most of the time.  

If you would spend $6000-7000 to get your "stockish" car going 0.3 sec faster, you certainly have more money than brains. Like I said before I believe that my 60' time could be improved a few tenths making my car almost as fast as yours... for $400!

0.3 of a sec is a reasonable difference if you were running 11s and wanted 10s. Maybe then $6000 on mods could be justified but certainly not when we're talking about a stock 14 sec car running 13s.

How is it that rev210 has spent around $2k and is killing most others here who have obviously spent a shit load more????

rev210: Looks like you've reasearched your mods very well :uh-huh:

[predator]

Like I said, most of it all came on the car, and lot of it was on it like that from Japan so I haven't even spent $2k myself (or probably would). A lot of the time I think extra power can actually mean you get slower times unless you get it all to the ground, as you're just losing traction

I wasn't meaning it in any arrogant way, sorrry. I definitely think I can get a fair bit lower lower - who knows .. and i'm only a very beginner strip driver (that was my first EVER timed run).. Who knows, Rev or somebody may be able to get 13.4 out of my car whereas i couldn't just due to my driving, but of course its hard to tell.

Don't forget our times are in Melbourne, and rev's are in WA I believe. I'm not saying he didn't get those times, but there are differences in drag strips around the country from what i've heard. Not all are exactly the same, and some cars may do slightly better than others. Like dynos, there are differences in strips in terms of traction, characteristics, etc for each strip.

yeah, rev210 obvious puts some good thought into what he does.

[rev210]

predator666,

What you say about the driver is true (I'm not sure in your case).

The dragstrip is difficult for street cars, it requires a little bit more effort to get going. The dragstrips all round the country are equally tough for skylines to get good times. Practice makes perfect.

[Guest MFX_R33]

Rigga P, You are mentioning costs of mods but the bottom line is that Rev's car has alot more power, or is alot lighter than Predators. Amost 10 MPH difference is alot. MPH is a very good indication of the cars power and overall potential.

Jeff.

[riggaP]

Originally posted by MFX_R33

Rigga P, You are mentioning costs of mods but the bottom line is that Rev's car has alot more power, or is alot lighter than Predators. Amost 10 MPH difference is alot. MPH is a very good indication of the cars power and overall potential.

Jeff.

The title of this thread does say 'stockish' doesnt it? Stockish to me means a few mods. A few mods implies little money spent. Its not really the dollar value spent, its more the fact that with more money you get more mods, which drags the car further away from being 'stockish'... doesnt it?

You say revs car has a lot more power, yet he hasnt got as many mods. I just dont understand why anyone would spend $6k on mods to produce a slower car than some one who has spent $2k.

I'm slowly coming to the conclusion that driver ability accounts for more than any mod.

On that "MPH is a good indication of a cars potential", could I get a "please explain"? I'm still learning here

[rev210]

riggaP,

Mods are often poorly matched. In my experience people go about doing mods to their cars without a good plan.I have given quite a few expensive gtst's a chopping even at rolling in gear runs (where driver skill is negated to a greater degree). I've driven a few modded gtst's that were not a patch on mine when it was first bought.

Plenty of these gtst's I can assure you are slower than a completely stock new gtst.

Many people do not take into account that their base power on a car that has done 60,000kms is going to be a fair way down on a fresh from factory engine. It's a basic fact that you can't ignor.

[Guest MFX_R33]

The MPH reading is not effected a great deal by the good or bad launch. It is basically the speed you can gain once you have traction, along the track. I believe that rev is fortunate and has got a "wednesday car" (rare car that is just better than the norm), and has some well thought out mods.

Some swear you can get a reasonably close power figure from calculating the weight of the car and the MPH.

Jeff.

[whatsisname]

Jeff,

I agree that MPH isn't greatly effected by the launch. But a good launch certainly seems to give that extra few MPH, providing the rest of the pass is trouble free. Having said that my best TS was recorded on my worst launch :burnout: W/spin got the car on boost real quick! Didn't help my 60ft though 2.667

I vaguely recall an R32 GT-R owner posting a string of timeslips in an earlier thread? The quicker his 60ft the faster his trap speed (by ~2-3MPH) Hmmm, I'll see if I can't dig that thread up?

Found it!

1st run...

5 grand dump, as i usually do on the street.

60 foot - 2.024

ET - 13.129

MPH - 106.52

2nd run...

i thought that i was wheelspinning too much off the line so i took off at a 4 grand dump (wrong thing to do!)

reaction time

60 foot - 2.310

ET - 13.903

MPH - 104.61

3rd run...

on this run, we all decided that i just launch at a 7 grand dump. the car rocketed!

60 foot - 1.881

ET - 12.776

MPH - 107.41

[benm]

A dumb question.... but if you are wheel spinning when launching @ 4,000rpm why would you then increase that to 7,000rpm which (as i thought) would just increase wheel spin.

Thats the reason why whenever I launch its only around 1,700-2,000rpm coz any higher and it just murders the rear tyres (and i could just imagine how long my tyres would last at 5,000rpm).

[whatsisname]

Ben,

I think the GT-R owners quote in my post above, "I thought I was wheel spinning too much off the line", sums it up. He only "thought" he had too much w/spin! As you can see from his 7k launch & 60ft improvement, big rev's is best. This is a GT-R mind you. RWD is a whole different ball game!

On a fully prepped drag strip your 1,700-2,000rpm launch would see you bog down badly! 3,000rpm on shitty Falken ZE502's was still low enough to bog down a touch.

I can launch @ 3500rpm on the road & get away cleanly (minimal w/spin) That's RE540S's for you I've yet to get a clean launch on the drag strip. 3,000-3,500rpm & I bog (the car not me!) 4,500+ & I use to get too much wspin &/or clutch slip. Now I've got a decent clutch, good grip & just need some more drag strip time.