Jump to content
SAU Community

13.4 second 1/4 for your 'stockish' R33. (A how to guide).


Recommended Posts

INASNT,

I'll take you up on the offer. You need to find a private road perhaps and play around with the launches to get it right.

I'd give a 2000rpm hill start kind of launch a go because it sounds like most people (myself included) get a little exited and floor the acellerator too early.The accelerator needs to be 'fed'.It's not much of a skill at all, you'll see what I mean when you get it right.

rev: i was trying a couple of times with more restraint but everytime i have done that i have got a slow time. I was launching at about 3000rpm then "gradually" (at least not putting foot to floor after the start) flooring it out to 6500 on 1st.

I have had plenty of practice on err, "private roads" just practicing launches. i guess you need to practice with the helmet on to get it right. With helmet and without helmet are totally different experiences.

For the record.. i have no probs with anybody driving my car for a run to see what it can get and the next meet I take my car. If anyhting, then it might give me motivation to learn better technique myself.

I think on the 'slow times' you may have launched with less revs but, still hit the full throttle too early and instead of spinning the tyres you 'bog down'.

The idea at the strip is to launch like a fast trafic light launch. It's not full throttle till you hit the end of the lights on the otherside.

You can still travel pretty quick with 3/4 throttle.

hi guys,

Over the weekend i did a [email protected] 2.183 60`.I`m running stock turbo-BOV-ECU but i have got a FMIC,boost bleed valve,zorst(turbo back),pod filter,255rears,9-12psi depending on climate.A couple of months ago i had it on the dyno and got 204rwkw(no dips).

rev210- The only reason why i posted this is because i noticed your car is a 1995model and so is mine.Maybe theres something in that?

Matt

REV210 i noticed that you have adjustable timing, i have just purchased a LT-12 microtech for my R33 could you give me an idea on the timing you went for so i have something to go off. Such as total advance at what revs, flattens out to ___ at what revs and how maney degrees retard at what boost, and mayby even what advance at light throtal vacume. Anything would help i think you said 20 deg total so im estimating 30 deg flat from 4000 revs and 10 deg retard due to 10psi of boost. :uh-huh:

This looks great! Exactly what i,ve been looking for. Thanks for your help. Going to go out very soon and try them out. Having a loot of trouble with the idling side of things to, maybe i'm too lean, seams to idle well but when backed of to idle, drops way to low!!

Disregard my ultra rich idle mixtures as I had and air leak that I compensated for. Found out air was being sucked thro my catch can in to the plenum bypassing my air flow meter and butterfly. Clean your AAC valve, its the thing hanging of the back of ur plenum closest to the fire wall. you will see two plugs, the purple one is the right one. This usually solves most idle isues.

mine is connected to the rocker cover aswell- however

there is another smaller pipe with a valve that closes once on boost that comes out of the rocker cover on the plenum side and goes into the plenum. I blocked off the valve with a screw and now I have perfect idle again. My catch can actually works now to, has about 10mm of condensation and oil after a week. Previously had next to nothing. Wouldn't suprise me if other people have made the same mistake.

matt,

I can't adjust my timing per rpm point. I can only set 'base timing' like all stock cars. I have no idea what it really is. A re-graph of timing is a great idea if you have an aftermarket ecu, lots of engine response to be gained.

the 13.44 is a good time. I wish I had 255's like you instead of the 205's, my last run down the 1/4 got me a 13.3 and a wheelspin fest launch of 2.3. I don't know if I'll get down past the 12 barrier with the 205's .

Guest MFX_R33

BOOSTD, that info on the catch can sounds like it is exactly what has been happening to my car. Cause thinking about it now, I have clear hoses throughout the engine bay and the one to the plenum from the rockercover is black, and the catch can hoses have never had a drop on them. I have also had alot of problems with stalling on back off, which were previously written up to the size of the throttle body.

Thanks heaps, as soon a I finish this stage of mod's to my car and eventually get it back on the road I will try that.

:D Jeff.

MFX_R33- Nice one !!! Its always good when you find stuff like that. Guess what.... I got 460km from a tank instead of 370 after fixing the leak. I'm on my second tank full now and have 310 km on the clock and just under 3/4 of a tank left! The car is ten times smoother now around light closed loop throttle aswell. I think because the closed loop operation works so much better without a leak that the car doesn't understand explains my new super economy. Don't forget to remap your light load points.

Originally posted by BOOSTD

mine is connected to the rocker cover aswell- however

there is another smaller pipe with a valve that closes once on boost that comes out of the rocker cover on the plenum side and goes into the plenum. I blocked off the valve with a screw and now I have perfect idle again. My catch can actually works now to, has about 10mm of condensation and oil after a week. Previously had next to nothing. Wouldn't suprise me if other people have made the same mistake.

The valve you've blocked with a screw is the PCV valve (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) Not much point fitting a catch can if the PCV valve is still operating as intended :D Except for looks.

what quarter mile should i get on my car ?

95 r33 gtst with series 2 engine (no ignitor box)

Cold air induction sectioned off in engine bay / k&n filter

supra round core front mount intercooler

hks suppa dragger exaust (3")

VL Turbo T3 high flowed with T4 front wheel running 10psi

standard suspention with 235/40/18

standard computer

apxi twin chamber BOV

Automatic dif (4.3:1 instead of the standard manual 4.1:1) with 5 speed manual installed (i get a few seconds in 4th gear)

If my speed meter read a 13.02 quarter & 4.71 0-100 would that be a fair call to go by ? or would it be wrong ?

are you guys finishing the quarter mile at the end of third ? or just as you clip into 4th ?

Originally posted by MFX_R33

Guilt-toy depends on how well you drive it.

Boostd, my fuel economy also went to shit, although I only get around 250k's out of a tank.

Jeff.

I can drive it goood... would a 12 be possible with those mods?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What could be causing my clutch problem besides a bad master or slave then? Both those parts are new 
    • Just came across this, but in QLD I start leave again in 2 weeks, if it is still available I might drive up and check it out Unless, @MBS206 do you live near here????, if so I could hit you up with a finders fee https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hope-island/auto-body-parts/nc-mx5-factory-hard-top/1328976391
    • My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...