Jump to content
SAU Community

13.4 second 1/4 for your 'stockish' R33. (A how to guide).


Recommended Posts

Shielding the pod is a great idea - the majority of air will be coming from the front of the car, the ambient heat from behind the filter basically acts as a contaminant to your nice cool air. The front of your car has a huge high pressure zone when you are moving, so long as you allow a path from there to the filter your car should not be starved in the slightest.

If the air is flowing from the front how is hot air from behind going to 'contaminate' the air flow into the POD?

I'm not saying you are wrong just wondering.

It could be that dyno results which 'prove' a shield is necessary, only do so 'cos the car is not moving (on the dyno) and so no 'cool' air is flowing from the front - w/out a shild the POD is just sucking in air from 360 deg around it which includes hot air around the engine. On the road it won't be like that of course with the 'cool' airflow from the front?

Edited by Battery_backup
so lithium how much rwkw u make at 6.7 psi???

The hell kind of question is that? I am pretty sure it made around 180rwkw on 7psi during a very early tune session, ran low 14s like that. I can't run any less than 12psi with the current setup - drag season is coming up, could have a friendly manual versus auto comparison :yes:

The hell kind of question is that? I am pretty sure it made around 180rwkw on 7psi during a very early tune session, ran low 14s like that. I can't run any less than 12psi with the current setup - drag season is coming up, could have a friendly manual versus auto comparison :yes:

Sorry i thought this was about standard times and ratings etc sorry if i got it wrong

The hell kind of question is that? I am pretty sure it made around 180rwkw on 7psi during a very early tune session, ran low 14s like that. I can't run any less than 12psi with the current setup - drag season is coming up, could have a friendly manual versus auto comparison :yes:

Ill do it! Perfect. Fun fun.

line up a v8 with a c4 transmission and same rw power and see what happens

I think you'll find that a typical V8 drag car automatic isn't setup quite the same as what the auto in your GTS25t is, hardly apples for apples. You Best tell the funny car and top fueller guys to get rid of their clutch setups and go torque convertor! Of course you CAN get your Jatco rebuilt to handle some decent power and stall/shift more aggressively so it actually does suit drag racing....

so ur setup only made 20 rwkw on my standard setup lol

I'm not sure what you are getting at or trying to achieve here, if you have something you need help with specify it please. It'll be good to see how you go with the auto - never said it won't go fast, it just could be a challenge unless you have or are going to get it modified to suit what you are doing.

Just for clarifications sake - you made 150rwkw on 7psi with stock turbo and I made 180rwkw on 7psi with stock turbo, and you somehow come with a comment lolling I only made 20rwkw more than your stock turbo? Given I made 30kw @ wheels more than you on the same boost with the same turbo, I am actually struggling to work out what you are going on about.

Edited by Lithium

Ahh right sorry, when I said "I can't run under 12psi with the current setup" I meant with the GT3076R vs the stock turbo - I couldn't run 7psi if I wanted to with the bigger turbo.

Edited by Lithium
how bout 13.061 on stock turbo...stock ecu....only exhuast/fmic/boost......on street tyres as well....2.00 60ft...

Not un-realistic if you get a good run and launch.

It may be a high goal, but im aiming to get as close as possible to a 12.999999 with stock ECU and bolt ons and street tires.

When im convinced i cant do any better only then will i try on some semi slicks.

If you can nearly do it, then so can i :D

yeah....super close to my goal....cant help but be a little disappointed it didnt crack the 12.....but theres no way i could launch any better absolutely no tyre slippage, it just stuck....tyres couldnt hold any of 2nd....chirped 3rds....and the rest is pretty straight forward....

best time on my other r33 was a 13.08 on some pretty used drag slicks....launch was a bit better...1.911 60ft with wheel spin....slipped part of 2nd....chirped third.....trap speed was 4km/h off ^^

but a 12 is possible....bloody difficult....the rest of the runs on that night were around 13.3-13.5....poor launching by comparison...

Interesting..

Only thing i will suffer from is horribly poorly prepped drag strips :D

Not quite the money around down here in NZ involved in the strips. But hey, just a handicap eh? :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • looking forward to your t56 swap man its a game changer if it works! 
    • So, when are you trying the new GR86 or BRZ?
    • Uncle Duncan Yeap, FI Interchiller  Works well, normal IAT's cruising with the WTA only went from 50°c+ to 25-30°c with the interchiller  Before, when on it hard, the IAT would see 80-90°c, now, the highest has been was around 38°c IIRC IAT is measured under the blower hat I recommend it for the street or strip where your only on it hard for 10 or so seconds, but it wouldn't be efficient for sustained track use as it would heat soak from the AC turning off or whatever it does during WOT to protect the compressor It really needs the AC running for it to not heat soak and keep the WTA coolant chilled My WTA coolant temps when just cruising is around 2°c
    • Hey Mark...sorry to interrupt your career change to hair dressing... but...did you ever fit the interchiller to the commodore, and if so how was it? And, who made it?
    • I've been pondering this, I really enjoy the convertible thing, for me, it's like riding a motorbike, without all the issue of riding a motorbike, mainly, my old sore arthritic joints getting beaten up, and, being able to do it in shorts and a T-shirt and not needing a helmet and all the other gear required, especially like wearing jackets and pants in the summer, or needing 6 layers of cloths in the winter, or not having wet weather gear handy when your 100km away from home on the bike when it decides to start raining As for the hard top and its Coupe look, whilst I do lose all that open top feeling that I really enjoy, from my experience with the NB with a detachable hard top, the cabin is a much nicer place to be, the difference in noise for one, a hard top quietens down the interior, alot, with the soft top up or down it's pretty noisy, which, after 5 or so hours, can get tiring But, as you stated, the detachable hard top totally changes the look of the car, in a really good way, and for me, the look of a detachable hard top is so much better than the PRHT which looks more like a after thought with its weird bulbous rear roof line For me, the minimal effort of putting in on, or storing it after removing it, is well worth the time and effort for the look alone And yes, I'm sure the next owner will be grateful for it as well.......  
×
×
  • Create New...