Jump to content
SAU Community

13.4 second 1/4 for your 'stockish' R33. (A how to guide).


Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

check out time slip.

Front pipe, cat and exhaust.

Boost up to 12 p.s.i

Unshielded Pod. (shield now on, but not during run)

BASS OUT

rev210 is correct. Standard Turbo, Standard Intercooler, Standard Computer.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

I just had a bit of a test run on a friend Passport G-Timer to see what to expect roughly with my new mods, since running a 14.1 with catback and pod.

I now have a cold air box with HKS filter, 3" catback exhaust, S-AFC2 and bleed valve with the car dyno tuned to run 11psi - running stock suspension and 255" rear tires. With the boost set to 10psi (don't entirely trust the bleed valve since I found it gets boost spikes on the road) the more notable results were:

0-60mph - 4.93

0-100mph - 12.05

0-60ft - 2.05

330ft - 5.78

1/8th - 8.78 @ 83.2mph

1000ft- 11.33

1/4 - 13.47 @ 105.3mph

Run was done with mechanically sympathetic gearchanges, I think there would be a bit more in it :D

I just had a bit of a test run on a friend Passport G-Timer to see what to expect roughly with my new mods, since running a 14.1 with catback and pod.

I now have a cold air box with HKS filter, 3" catback exhaust, S-AFC2 and bleed valve with the car dyno tuned to run 11psi - running stock suspension and 255" rear tires.  With the boost set to 10psi (don't entirely trust the bleed valve since I found it gets boost spikes on the road) the more notable results were:

0-60mph - 4.93

0-100mph - 12.05

0-60ft - 2.05

330ft - 5.78

1/8th - 8.78 @ 83.2mph

1000ft- 11.33

1/4     - 13.47 @ 105.3mph

Run was done with mechanically sympathetic gearchanges, I think there would be a bit more in it :cheers:

Thats a crazy 60', sure you dont have attessa hiding there somewhere? lol

Shame i dont remember all the rest of my stats (namely 8th mile data) to compare, looks like the whales could all have a good go with each other.

Lith,

If you look at my old time slip at the start of this thread thats a mid 13 time for sure. However the g-tech reading was not done on a drag strip surface? If not you might find the time is going to be generous by comparison. If you get the same 60ft time on the real drag stip you will certainly be getting that time however.

Lith,

If you look at my old time slip at the start of this thread thats a mid 13 time for sure. However the g-tech reading was not done on a drag strip surface? If not you might find the time is going to be generous by comparison. If you get the same 60ft time on the real drag stip you will certainly be getting that time however.

I agree completely, hence the fact that I am quoting my 14.1 @ 103mph time on my sig as my cars performance - despite the fact the car has a lot more power than it had when I did that time, as until winter ends there is no chance to prove its new potential :cheers: Anyone who knows me will know that I don't like to give myself false hopes, that time was just used to get an indication of progress and I posted it because it was an interesting comparative result.

Out of interest, the used road surface IS actually quite difficult to launch on (and there is the whole fact that being winter, its not going to be a nice sticky surface) - the launch method was virtually driving off from stationary and giving it gas when it was rolling (basically a 2000-2500rpm slip then floor it) which still resulted in some spin (despite quite good 255s)... but was easier to control from lower revs etc. 2.05 60ft indicates a very good launch, but because of the nature of the technique I wasn't carrying as much speed at the end of the 60ft as from slightly higher revs :)

How on earth can 107.6mph = 109mph??   Especially when 13.68 equals 13.6?   A

Talk about optimism

I thought it was 108.7? Ahh well, i couldnt actually remember, and i knew if i put up roughly what it was you would correct me anyway hahaha~ Hence the "optimistc" ness, you would notice it faster lmao

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is there a way to adjust all of the pedals in an R32 GTS-T? they all sit even, but seem to be a little high for my liking.
    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
×
×
  • Create New...