Jump to content
SAU Community

13.4 second 1/4 for your 'stockish' R33. (A how to guide).


Recommended Posts

Originally posted by R33NT

The article did a before and after dyno run showing there was an actual gain (i dont remember how much) in removing the mesh. Anyway you dont technically force more air in there you actually suck more air in there and the more tubulence (caused by something like a grate) the less flow you get!!!!

Anyway as long as you are careful not to leave the filter off and the filter is internally clean when you bolt it in then it wont cause any problems.

dont do it, i did it and the actualy gain u get is not even noticeable!

I get surges and weird idleing sumtimes after i pulled mine off!

yep, I should have mentioned I have removed the mesh.

It would improve airflow a little (it's quite obvious because it is a restriction), not so much power you'd notice though.

The mesh is there to stop knuckleheads poking screwdrivers into the hot wire. It certainly not there to smooth airflow beacuse the mesh is cheap ass and not completely even due to cheap manufacture.

Re the surging that you are seeing, i think that it has something to do with the air flow meter measuring differently with a lower restriction input. I know that in my Apexi PowerFC you actually have to tell it if you are using the standard air box or a pod filter so it must affect the measured value in some way and with what i assume is a standard ECU in your car it could be a problem.

Again this is only an opinion, talk to your mechanic and see what he says.

Rev210, I'm glad to see you get a better response than you did on the SDU forum. That was rather sad - conjured up memories of when I posted my dyno results; same dyno as everyone else uses, but nobody wanted to believe it. It seems if you get something better than others they don't want to knnow about it. As I said in the "other" thread: Go the whale!! :D

Guest MFX_R33

I went out to Eastern Creek a few weeks ago and watched 2 very similar GTSt's with FMIC's, running about 12 psi each, that could not get better than a 14.7. They had varied launches from bogging to wheel spin, and they couldn't get any quicker (not sure of the mph).

I decided to take my car down there last week to see how it would go. I left it in full street trim, with 18"s, full tyre pressure, system and spare still in the boot, and HKS coil overs. I did a 13.737 @ 105.41 mph.

I am thinking of going back soon, with my stockie 16's with 15psi in them and seeing what I can do.

Vishes, you said you prefer to run in street trim. If that is the case, then why would you strip out the back of the car?

Jeff.

Originally posted by MFX_R33

Vishes, you said you prefer to run in street trim. If that is the case, then why would you strip out the back of the car?

BUSTED! :Owned: :)

Nice numbers Jeff. EC isn't the easiest track to get good ET's on either! Speaking from experience.

EDIT: Just noticed Vishes had already stated he runs minus seats etc... Removing interior is no longer "street trim" IMO.

Street trim to me means - out of the garage, down to the strip & off you go! That's how I run my car, nothing different to how I drive it 100% of the time. I've never even dropped my tyre pressures :)

apparently you can put 235 tyres on the stockies. i know you can put 225 tyres, coz we have a few cars here that have 225 tyres on the stock rims.

any disadvantage of puting 235 on the stockies? i would say its a great idea!

cheers

Guest MFX_R33

My coil overs are HARD. Rev as far as I know you want softer suspension for the 1/4 so the car can squat off of the line. This helps the weight transfer, and give the rear more traction. From memory the ideal is to set up your rear shocks with a really soft compression, and a hard rebound. This way the car can transfer the weight onto the back wheels, and will slowly come back up further down the track.

Jeff.

MFX_R33,

The front is the make or break part. 90/10 shocks are best but, boy are they crap for driving around town.

If you have the diff cradle angle right (ala' cradle pinapples) the rear will squat regardless. The stiff front end is where the trouble starts.

I have standard 'soft' rear suspension and it does me no favours. Stiffer rear setup would get me a better 60ft

Going back to the tyre size question,

Which set up would net a better 60ft time?

1) 17" mags with 255x40x17 (36psi)

or

2) Stock rims with 225x50x16 (15psi)

Very interested to know which ones would obtain a better result.

Stock suspension.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Does it make a difference in your turbo having a shorter life if you have a cat converter as it causes that back pressure versus less/no back pressure with a decat? (Not sure if this is accurate) Also slightly different question if you went from a oem cat to a decat or vice versa will it require a tune? I heard if you change the dump pipe onwards it requires a tune?
    • No. Have only gotten as far as contemplating the task of having to put in the required fairly heavy wiring and fusing to run it (along with the big alternator), and preferring not to. But otherwise, it would be nice to have a little extra freedom as to exactly where the compressor is located and free up some space around the exhaust side of the engine.
    • Following from this in a related by not closely-related sense... Because I was buying a bunch of other GKTech stuff, I got some rear subframe collars. The history that leads up to this is: 25+ years ago the car arrived into the country with stock subframe bushes. At some point shortly thereafter I added Whiteline pineapple rings, set up neutral, and it improved the rear end behaviour. Well, it is my vague memory that I was happier with it with them in. Less axle tramp on launches, generally better, etc etc. ~2012 it got a new non-HICAS subframe with new stock bushes. No pineapple rings. I reckon that ever since then I've been dissatisfied with the axle tramp. Recently I've been f**king around a lot with all aspects of the suspension. One contemplation has been to relocate the rear lower control arm front mount points (and do the other things needed to make that work) to improve longitudinal rear grip by getting rid of some of the stupid anti-squat that Nissan ladled into the R32. But.... before doing that I thought I'd put some collars in. And.... The collars are good. The rear sounds a little bit different, but there has been no significant increase in NVH coming up into the body. In terms of rear behaviour - expansion joints on long sweeping elevated freeway ramps that would sometimes cause the rear to jiggle around a bit, no longer seem to do so. It appears that jamming chunks of metal into the gaps in the rubber so they can't move much is a really good thing. And the launch behaviour and general forward traction situation seems to be greatly improved too. It's impossible to be really sure, because the tyres are completely shagged - they are freakishly willing to let go right now. But as an A-B test with the same tyres it certainly seems to grip up a lot better. Highly recommended to anyone who still has stock bushes.
    • Bit off topic maybe but has anyone had a crack at one of those aftermarket electric compressors ? Bit of a search came up with one put out by Speedy Air Spares. Looks interesting and looks as if you'd have to run a big arse alternator. Found this out after the fact as my air con compressor packed it in and soon after my alternator ! !
    • Yes. Needs new ports. Usually just achieved by screwing an adapter onto them. Be aware that any AC compressor that hasn't been used in a long time will very likely have dried out seals and will not hold gas. Oh, and obviously you will require a new receiver-dryer also.
×
×
  • Create New...